[RYU]

I just installed the front clip back onto my 66. I'm using a set of Big Block front springs I had from a previous build. I only cut about half a coil so the coil perches lined up with the coil. I need to go lower by about 2.5"-3". I know it sounds like a lot...

How much coil should I cut?

I'm thinking somewhere in between 1.5-2 coils. I don't mind doing this once to get the stance just right but definitely don't want to be doing this multiple times

If it helps...
I'm on a slighly lighter LS1/4L60e combo with upper and lower ball joints which should lower it already by about .75".

To preserve some travel in the suspension should I go with drop spindles instead? I'm trying not too because I wanted to use my old drum spindles with a Kore3 BBK.

edit: Moderators - if this should be in the suspension section please go ahead and move.

 

[Scotch]

I hate to say it, but creeping up on it is the best way to nail the precise stance you're after.

I know it means doing the old spring out/spring in multiple times, which does indeed suck. But, it does not suck as bad as cutting too much and having to buy new springs...

 

[tunedbytad]

agreed

 

[fasteddies68]

What size tire are you useing? Going that low may cause the front tire to rub the inner wheel housing.

 

[RYU]

I hate to say it but I think I agree with you guys. I'll be lucky if I get it right the first 2 times. I'll go with cutting 1 coil first. This will work out too since i'll get some benefit to a higher spring rate.

Not too worried about the wheels rubbing yet at this point. I've got enough offset and the improved adj suspension travel/geometry with the SPC arms will help. BTW... I'm running 18x8" wheels in the front. Tires are still TBD probably 45 series somewhere in between 225-245. Won't know until I test fit a few sets.

What are you guys' thoughts on drop spindles? If I lower my car with say ~4" clearance (floor-to-crossmember) will be bouncing off my bumpstops a lot?

 

[1966_L78]

I hate to say it, but creeping up on it is the best way to nail the precise stance you're after.

I know it means doing the old spring out/spring in multiple times, which does indeed suck. But, it does not suck as bad as cutting too much and having to buy new springs...

Agreed...

What I did was with the spring installed, and the car sitting on the ground, don't "count coils", but measure the coils, and determine how many to cut to achieve the desired "installed height"...

IF you want to drop 2", then figure on cutting one inch out of the coils (installed length), regardless of how many "coils" it is...

What size tire are you useing? Going that low may cause the front tire to rub the inner wheel housing.

It will depend on the tire size... I used to run 265/50-15 on the front, lowered about 4" from stock... My header collectors were literally 1" off the ground, and the crossmember was about 2-1/2" off, but the tires didn't rub the inner wheel well at all, barely rubbed the outer lip at full lock (removed the center-outer bolt)...

Reminds me of a funny story from my youth (that makes me sound old)... Anyway, I was lowering my El Camino, and I knew I wanted to drop about 2" in front, so I measured the installed coils, took the springs out and cut them with a cutoff wheel...

But I goofed... I forgot that for a 2" drop, cut the front springs about an inch, so I cut 2" out of the spring instead... Needless to say, my car was slammed... Thank goodness it didn't scrape bad Learn from experience...

 

[Scotch]

I've got AFX spindles and SPC uppers, and I got custom coils and Doestch Tech adjustable shocks up front. The crossmember is about 3.5 inches up and I run 235/45s on 17x8s with no issues. I don't have front wheelwells installed yet either, but I don't anticipate rubbing issues as I've got plenty of room on the inside. I did cut away the inner fenderwell lip since I did have a minor rub at full lock there- no more though.

My front springs were designed for use under lowered Chevy pickups. I got them from Performance Online, who chose them for me. My rear springs are also from them, and were sourced at the same time. I had the car in their shop for the spring install (and a front end rebuild) so I could determine if I liked the ride height once they were in. The front LCA's were level, so I knew it was as low as I could go. I was happy, and they're great guys to deal with over there (at Performance Online). The springs ride really nice and perform well too. I honestly don't know the spring rates (I should, I know) and I'll have to get this info before I fine-tune the suspension any further. I'm so happy with it now, I don't anticipate changing too much...but since I'm bound to be chasing Derek around the MN autocross scene, I'll probably end up changing stuff eventually. I want to upgrade to that new Spohn rear swaybar first though...!

 

[vrooom3440]

Tony has the right idea....

Install the springs and measure their full installed height with car sitting on ground.
Determine how far you need to drop.
Measure and mark the spring 1/2 the drop distance up from the bottom.
Remove and cut.

Cut from the bottom to maintain the ground flat top.

Now that said, I do not favor cutting springs. Much better to get the stockcar 9" tall springs and adjustable shims. That way you really know what spring rate you are working with and you can adjust it anywhere you want. Including back higher if you decide from experience you went too low, dragging headers and other stuff is no fun :clonk:

 

[harleighguy]

vrooom3440,


Steve, what brand of front adjustable 9" spring will work with the SPC lower arm?? I installed some over the weekend and now the front is waaaay low~ I have a set of front springs from BMR in place at the moment, but I like the idea of adjustability.... and I need to get the front up some.

Rob in Placerville,

 

[vrooom3440]

The springs are pretty generic, a 9" spring is pretty much 9" long (actually they are listed as 9.5" long... I use shorthand referring to them as 9")

With the SPC LCA they have shims available for under the spring as an alternative method of adjusting ride height.

But generally when you run the 9" springs you need an adjustable shim over the top like these:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjustable-Spring-Shims,3389.html

Note that these come in short 0-2.5" range and long 3.125"-5.25" range. With stock parts the longs work better but you may only need the short ones.

 

[harleighguy]

Are those what you're running in your elco? I currently have a SBC but am building a 427 to replace it soon~

 

[vrooom3440]

That is what I will be running eventually.

Right now I have a set of Eibach sport or whatever springs in the front with a set of the Mr. Gasket shims on them.

The rears are of unknown origin but believed to be some kind of serious cargo coil in about a 200 lb/in rate and topping out the shocks. These are more street friendly than the rear springs out of the Eibach sport set which were just too soft and too short for an El Camino. Especially when I load up the back with camping gear and/or hook a trailer up on the back.

I picked up the Eibach springs for not too much off of Ebay. They are supposed to be for a Chevelle and I figured they should be pretty close. Not quite as close as I had thought so once again Ebay provides an education :clonk: I have a set of adjusters I picked up on Ebay all ready to go... so once I pick up a set of stock car front springs I'll switch over and sell the Eibach set.