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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys.. I need your help. I'm trying to wire a CS-130 alternator (the one from the 88 Olds Firenza in Techref #14)

First I'll explain the history. About 4 weeks ago I set out to (with the help of a friend), pull my 307, put in a 350 crate engine, flowmaster exhaust and rewire the car with a kit from Centech. This was supposed to take 2 weeks (by my guestimate) BOY was I wrong! This is my daily driver and it's been off the road now for about 4-5 weeks. Everything is wired and working great, except for the alternator, the fuel gauge and the stereo. I'm at my wits end with this and frustrated beyond all belief.

So, I decided I'd work on one thing at a time. Since the alternator is all I need to get working in order to DRIVE my car, I figured I'd start there.

SO... here's the info I have gathered so far. On the alternator the "S" wire goes to the junction block and this is for voltage sensing. The "L" wire is the wire that needs resistance and causes the alternator to charge. I don't have the "F" wire hooked up to anything.

The way my setup goes is this: From the fuse panel there's a tan wire that says "to gen light" which gets 12v with ignition on. This is hooked up to one side of my idiot light. The other side of my idiot light is hooked up to the "L" wire on the alternator plug. Then of course I have the charge post on the alternator hooked up going to the main junction block.

What happens is this. I turn the key to the ign position and the gen light comes on like it's supposed to. When I start the car the light stays on and the alternator doesn't charge.

When I check the tan "L" wire on the alternator plug with the key in the ign on position I measure 2.46v and with the car started it was I believe around 9.8v or so.

I was told this alternator should have at least 35 ohm of resistance going to the "L" wire. The best option was to use the idiot light as the resistance and no further resistance was needed.

This is how the car is currently wired and sits tonight.

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OTHER things I have tried are the following: I tried bypassing the idiot light and I ran a wire from the tan wire at the fuse panel to a 100 ohm 1 watt resistor connected to the tan "L" wire on the alternator plug. This worked for about 2 minutes. I had great charging (14.4v) at the battery in the trunk, 14.4v at the junction block and 14.4v at the alternator post. This lasted for about a minute and then the alternator stopped charging. Since then I have had the alternator checked and it always works at Autozone. I've had this one tested about 3 times now.

If anyone has any ideas or things to try PLEASE let me know. I'm borrowing a car of someone else's right now and they're not too happy that this is taking so long. Thanks for any help you can provide!

Rodney.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That's very informative and confirms what I believed the connections were, but the problem lies in the fact that I don't have a blue wire that I can connect the brown wire at the old regulator because I have a whole new wiring system now from Centech.

I would like more info on HOW the "L" wire "triggers" the alternator to start charging. What makes that happen? Is it a certain amount of resistance?

Also, it might be informative if someone who has a CS-130 could measure their voltage at the "L" wire at the alternator plug and tell me how many volts they get with the key in the ign on position and how many they get there with the car on. That might give me a baseline to compare with.

BTW, when I had the CS-130 in the car before I did the wiring and engine swap it worked great. That's why I'm trying so hard to keep it.
 

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Going by your description it sounds like the alternator is wired correctly and should charge. It can be used with only two wires connected, the battery connection and the L connection with 30 to 500 ohms inline resistance. The S connection is optional.

How is the alternator output connected to the trunk mounted battery, and to the fuse block/ignition switch? Exact details including wire sizes.
Did you have the trunk mounted battery before the rewire?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have a junction block from Mad Electrical that is mounted on the firewall on passenger side. There's an 8 gauge wire from that junction block to the battery in the trunk. From the alternator output post I have an 8 or 10 gauge (not sure off the top of my head) going to the above mentioned junction block. This junction block is also where the main power feed for the fuse panel connects.

I currently have 2 jumper wires with aligator clips I'm using from the idiot light to get the alternator to work before I wire permanently. I believe they're 10-12 gauge wires.

Yes I had the trunk mounted battery before the rewire.

Does that cover all you wanted to know or did I leave something out?


Rodney.
71 Chevelle
El Mirage, AZ
 

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It is wired correct. It should charge. I would say the alternator is bad. I know you've had it checked but I can't think of any reason for it not charging. The only other suggestions I have is disconnect the S connection and do you have 12V at the batt/output connection with the ignition off?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Elree for being so confident. I caused me to wonder.

The alternator STILL tests as working at Autozone on the bench tester, so they wouldn't replace it. BUT, I went down to PepBoys and bought one with a lifetime warantee and whaddaya know, it WORKED!

I don't know whether to overjoyed that it works or pissed cause Autozone wouldn't replace the other one for free. Anyways, $170 later, it's working! Thanks for the help.

OH, I almost forgot. I have a link DEFINTELY worth posting for others fighting problems with a CS-130. Here's a link to a service manual I found online. It even has troubleshooting steps in it. Great refererence! http://www.alternatorparts.com/cs130_sbpage1.htm


Rodney.
 
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