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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
besides looking for someone to work my heads, I need to select a cam for this thing too, going with a solid roller, mainly a drag car, very limited street use

454, .060 over, 3998289 block
JE pistons, 111718, 40cc dome
6.385 alum rods
stock forged crank
Canfield alum heads 310cc, 119 chambers, 2.25/1.88 valves
2" tube hooker headers
3800-4000 stall 10" converter
3.73 rear gears
28" tires
Brodix HV2000 intake, looking for other recommendations here too

static compression is 11.29, going in a 71 monte carlo, approx 3800# with driver
looking to keep the RPM under 6800
 

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YOu've got a good selection of parts should not be a problem getting you the right cam for what you want to do. Give me a ring and we can go over your goals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thank-you Chris for the info, enjoyed our chat :thumbsup:

thank-you TNT for the recommendation :thumbsup:
 

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I have the same 2 bolt main block with head and main studs that was revving over 7000 and was suffering main cap walk. Stepped up cam with one of Harolds SR cams and now rev to 7800 after I had Mike Lewis aka-Wolfplace machine in Oliver 4 bolt mains! Unless you have studded mains would keep revs down to 6500 and torque mains tighter than factory specs! I think you have good build going there and getting Chris's input on cam is certainly right way to go! Why are you asking about a crankshaft? Nothing wrong with the one you have? Paying over 500. for Procomps would rather pay 200. more and get a Scat or Eagle properly balanced with rotating assembly! What carb do you have? Think you have a good intake and would use a Holley 850-1000 depending on use. Gears are little small for heavy race car but certainly can use them for now. Good luck with your build!

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
after talking with Chris,I am going to ditch the alum rods, and the crank has had so much weight taken off it must go too

thanks Bob, I do have studs for the mains and the heads, I am going to do away with the alum rods
 
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