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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I took my 70 Chevelle to the track today for the 1st time. I was happy with my results but need to make some changes. Here's my combo. 70 Chevelle, 3980 w/driver 496 10.5 comp. Edelbrock 60459 290 heads except for solid roller springs 225lb. Cam is a Harold SR 243/249 .650 112lsa, RPM Air Gap and a Pro Systems 1000HP,Carter 110 GPH pump, 3/8 line. TH400 with a TS 3000 Stall. Diff is a 3.31 MT DR's 275/60/15 16psi. Car pulls strong on top end. Edeldrock adj uppers and boxed lowers, angle set at 3.5 I have stock rear springs and Qa1's. Fronts are Koni's with BB/AC springs. I will be installing new BB non-AC springs 289 lbs. since the AC was removed and the car is high up frt. It's 90% street and 10% strip. Here are the runs

Run 1 Run 2 Run 3

1.797 60ft 1.978 60ft 1.927 60ft
7.825 1/8 91.96 mph 8.009 1/8 91.35 7.874 1/8 92.42
10.121 1000ft 10.314 1000ft 10.167 1000ft
12.065 1/4 115.42 mph 12.255 115.91 12.104 116.38

What should I start looking at to help my 60ft

Thanks guys
 

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Wilson - all I can say is good luck. You can look up some of my postings - I'm in the same boat as you. I've pulled anywhere from a 1.64 to a 2.30 in the same night. Most consistent I've ever been is with a vac sec carb. Can usually keep the 60' times in the 1.72-176 range. You're gonna need to loosen up that front end a lot. From what I can figure, only way to launch a car with a lot of torque and drag radial may be firm compression, soft rebound shocks and lower rate springs.

Added info for you.

Searching for the same solution as you, I changed a bunch of suspension components and gained nothing in the 60'. Best suggestion I can give you is, install the absolutely lowest rate front spring you can live with and some loose front shocks. As for the rear suspension, I think if the car sits stock height, control arm location from GM will work fine. If you raise the car, you need to raise the UCA mounting point, if you lower the car, you need to lower the LCA mounting point. I've had mine up and down, with/without lift bars- made no difference. Can tell you, it's frustrating. Done every kind of burnout procedure from long hot burnout with a lot of smoke to a short barely clean them off burnout. I tend to think the MT DR's may not want as much of burnout though.
 

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Gear is what would help right away. I know there are some guys doing very well with that gear range but the first place I would start is gears. Good MPH tho.
 

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It will affect the street driving but changing the rear gear to a 3.73(a 4.10 would be even faster) will help the et a lot.

Get a set of real slicks. Forget the street stuff they do not hook as well as the true bias ply slicks. Change them at the track. Mickey Thompson makes a good 26x10 that should work well with 3.73 gears. Put it on a 10 inch wheel.

The slicks and the gear should put you close to 11.50's to 11.60's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the sugestions guys. I want to first change out my frt springs this week and recheck my pinion angle since its all new back there. I know a gear change would help. Now that I remember my best 60ft was with 18 psi in the tires I then lowered them to 16. I was told that you could hear the tires spinning on the first pass. I'll try to borrow a set of tires. Would a tighter converter help at all ?
 

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I tried a tighter converter last fall, accomplished nothing but to slow the car down. 289 rate springs - those are the 5372's???? Considering those myself. Have 5390's (336 rate) in there now with 1/2 coil cut to lower the front end. Front end does move some, but is still too firm. Those lighter coils may work.
 

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Gear is what would help right away. I know there are some guys doing very well with that gear range but the first place I would start is gears. Good MPH tho.
John,its not the gears.Its not a manual trans car ;)
His issue is in choice of tires,starting lines condition,burnout procedure,etc. all of which effect consistency.
I run Hoosier QT DOT Pro's and they are very consistant as opposed to the BFG drag radials I used to run.And I have a totally stock rear suspension.
Get that 60 ft. into the lower 1.7 range and you'll be running 11's all day long :thumbsup:
Nice MPH and I would say that combo runs real strong :cool:
My old 442 clone would run 11.6-11.7 @ 115 MPH with 3.31 gears
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks, so its no converter change needed. My new springs are NAPA's cross to Moog's 5372. My current springs are too stiff also. I restored my car and removed the A/C since it was built without it. I reused the springs it had, but needed a starting point. I don't know what springs it had exactly but they have a large wire diameter. Huge difference all the way around. I hope to do it this week then back to the shop to check the front and to double check my pinion angle. All in all I was very pleased, Eng ran great to and from ETown and the plugs looked good after each run. Patrick sure hit the nail on the head with my carb. All that was needed was a Idle speed adjustment. I'll keep you posted on my suspension. Willie
 

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Your mph says you have some new best coming. Are you spinning at the line ?
Do you leave off idle or on the converter ?
The drad radials are not your problem. Mickey Thompsons advice worked for me on burnouts - 1st run do a hot smokey burnout and after that just a little bit of smoke.

I am still stumbling thru improving 60' times , but loosening the front end helps the most for me. Sometimes that is no good for the street. Like removing your swaybar and springs.With the BB, even the SB w/ac springs were too stiff to get the car under 1.6 on a regular basis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Robb, This is my first time since 32 years ago. College, Bussiness and family came first. Had a 11 sec. street car back then. Now 50 alot wiser and not as daring. I left off the converter and didn't do much of a burnout. A linelock would help. I did have tire spin. Will try your tire heating recomendation next time. I did have all its street suspension in place. I will remove my frt. sway bar next time. I have the Koni frt Adj. shocks at full soft as per Bob west's previous posts. He really makes that suspension work. You sure do have some nice numbers to be proud off.
Willie
 

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Much of this has already been said (typed)... but you have plenty of MPH for an 11 second pass.

What has worked for me is using small block a/c front springs. With your aluminum heads and removed a/c system, your car should sit just a tad below stock. I suggest the non adjustable KYB gas shocks in the front (the cheap white ones). Some have also done well with the Comp Plus 3 way adjustable shocks up front.

Hands down, my best et's have been off of MT ET streets ( a slick with some hot knife grooves cut into them) For years I ran them on both the street and at the track. They are bias ply so yes they get funky with radials on the front. I got a TON of runs out of these tires also, with moderate burn outs.

Art Morrison (and many other companies) sell a rear upper and lower arm system that has brackets which allow you to alter the upper control arm location. This changes your IC and allows you to adjust your pinion angle. For me, this system was the answer to my traction problems.

Here is a pic of the kit. A little pricey at around 600 bucks, but you can spend this much fast by swapping out parts trying to get it right!

Hope this info helps!!!

 

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Willie - That is a nice looking ride...... Very nice.
My tires seem to work anywhere from 16 to 19 psi so far. Another little thing you can try is make sure when you raise your [email protected] the start line , dont come up enough to start raising the front end at all. That may give you just a little more upward momentum. My Chevelle is very funny about that, it likes to be at rest on the front end before launch.
 

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One of the best, quick and cheap things to do to improve your 60 ft at the track is to remove the end links on your sway bar and tie up the ends with heavy duty zip ties so it doesnt fall down. That alone will put you in the 11's. It will help the front come up a lot and transfer the weight. Just be careful when you turn off the end of the track onto the pit rod.. she won't corner like she normally does.

mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
These tips I'm getting will certainly get my times down I'm sure. Thanks again Guys
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Just added my last run to my signature so you could see how it launches. What do you think is going on?
 

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John,its not the gears.Its not a manual trans car ;)
His issue is in choice of tires,starting lines condition,burnout procedure,etc. all of which effect consistency.
I run Hoosier QT DOT Pro's and they are very consistant as opposed to the BFG drag radials I used to run.And I have a totally stock rear suspension.
Get that 60 ft. into the lower 1.7 range and you'll be running 11's all day long :thumbsup:
Nice MPH and I would say that combo runs real strong :cool:
My old 442 clone would run 11.6-11.7 @ 115 MPH with 3.31 gears
Chris
Looking at your screen name I would hope you are on my side. LOL
Good info tho
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Honestly, I didn't check my RPM crossing the line. I was worried about stopping, something else I need to address. The factory disc brakes were fading.
 
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