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My headers not fitting onto new Brodix racerites.

537 Views 18 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  shovelrick
Hello all,

Just finishing a cam swap with new valve train and heads for my 454. I have Brodix race rites 270. I was under the impression these can replace stock heads without modification. However I've found my passenger side exhaust headers are hitting off of the larger "lip" that contains the short cylinder head bolts.

In the picture below you can see where I have begun bashing in the pipe near the last exhaust port, this is the bit that's hitting the large lip on the heads. My stock heads have a wavy patter rather than a straight edge. I hope you understand what I mean.




Has anyone else had this problem? Are there any other solutions other than bashing this pipe even more? Looks like I have quite a bit to go, the flange is sitting about 5mm out from the exhaust ports.

At the moment I think I will remove the starter motor which will hopefully allow me to get the headers out so I can heat them and bash them more. At least enough I can get them close enough with a double gasket. Do spacers exist?

Any tips would be appreciated!
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When I installed my Race Rites with ARP head bolts, I had to clearance the bottom of the header flange above the head bolts at each location so that the header would properly mate up to the exhaust ports on the head. This is not uncommon.
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Does that mess up the header tuning?
You are grinding the bottom of the flange for clearance.. It has nothing to do with "header tuning"
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Nothing bolts on without "fitting" the part!
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You are grinding the bottom of the flange for clearance.. It has nothing to do with "header tuning"
I meant denting the pipes, not grinding the flange.
What brand headers?

Both my previous 1-3/4"" Hedmans and current 1-7/8" Patriot headers bolted to the head without any problem whatsoever. The only clearance I needed to "apply" was near the steering box (B-Body, not A-Body) and a bolt on the starter. Both very minor adjustments. No issues with, or near, the flange.
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I had to bash down no. 4 cylinder pipe. Ended up bashing quite a bit down, hope it doesn't affect the exhaust flow/pressure too much.



And then found, yes, I had to grind down the flange to get them to fit with the arp bolts. The drivers side was a nightmare to get out as I don't have a lift to get the car high.

Got there in the end.

Now my engine won't start. So I'm gonna make a new thread :ROFLMAO:.
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I had to bash down no. 4 cylinder pipe. Ended up bashing quite a bit down, hope it doesn't affect the exhaust flow/pressure too much.
There is an EngineMasters episode on MotorTrend Channel where they bashed close to 2 dozen dents into a set of headers on the 450+ hp small block while on the engine dyno, some more than 1/2 way closed.

It did absolutely nothing to hurt power.....the hosts Frieburger and Dulcich were both rather stunned that it had zero effect on the power the engine made.
I was surprised myself
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There is an EngineMasters episode on MotorTrend Channel where they bashed close to 2 dozen dents into a set of headers on the 450+ hp small block while on the engine dyno, some more than 1/2 way closed.

It did absolutely nothing to hurt power.....the hosts Frieburger and Dulcich were both rather stunned that it had zero effect on the power the engine made.
I was surprised myself

Good to know!
Having bought the Race Rite's just because I thought it was an exact header fit as the OE iron heads. Turns out this isn't true???

I should have just bought some AFR's then.
As I stated I've had two sets of headers on mine with zero issues. What headers are you running?
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It’s not the headers or the heads, it’s the ARP head bolts. They have a taller head than OEM head bolts. If you prefer, swap the lower, short head bolts for OEM head bolts and you should be fine if you don’t want to grind the flange on the header.
I also have Race Rites and Patriot 1 7/8" headers and ARP head studs and only needed 1 small dimple to clear a bolt on the engine mount frame stand that I ran the bolt Up from underneath on Pas side, installing the headers meant lifting the Drv side of the engine 4"-6" and Pas side came up from under the car, but I had a car lift and an engine hoist at the time, 73 El Camino with a BB W/iron heads was the same on the Drv side but got the 1 3/4" headers down & in on Pas side, No Denting
It’s not the headers or the heads, it’s the ARP head bolts. They have a taller head than OEM head bolts. If you prefer, swap the lower, short head bolts for OEM head bolts and you should be fine if you don’t want to grind the flange on the header.
My problem was the arp bolts but also that the pipe for no.4 cylinder was hitting the thicker lower section of the race rites. See the photo.

I don't know what type my headers are, they came with the car when I bought it. I haven't found any identifying marks.
That’s weird . I have hooker headers with 2” primary tubes and they clear. I only had the issue grinding the header flange to clear the ARP bolt heads.
If your headers fit ok with the iron heads there really shouldn't be any problem fitting the Brodix heads, but I never tried my 1 3/4" Summit headers from the iron headed 454 to see how they fit the Brodix headed 454/489
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