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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This was by far the cleanest block I have ever started a build with. Many thanks to Carl for bailing me out. Not only did he come through with a timely delivery, but the machine work on this unit was possibly the best I have ever seen. Block was blasted, baked and cleaned, prepped to .070 (bored and plate honed), lifter bores checked and honed and mains line honed. During the line hone, I got a call from Carl, telling me he did not like the integrity of the rear cap and if it was OK with me, he would install another rear cap but he only had a 4 bolt rear cap available. I know of no other shop that would have called to get an OK on this.





PS - see those little dust specs??, that's pollen. Had the garage door open for maybe 10 minutes, everything got covered. Breeze just carried it right in.
 

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LOOKS VERY VERY NICE,but not surprised that Carl did such nice work as you already know &he is one the of the few good guys out there that does such good work and we are very lucky to have Carl helping us out as a memeber of t/chevelle.

But we also have other very good engine machiests/builders that help us out too which have done work for some of us or sold motors to us here in t/chevelle like Mike-Wolfplace/Gary @ Go Fast/Mark-Vortec Pro/Billk that are also good/honest/experieced guys to deal with.

Scott
 

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I see those pistons are numbered 2465,but they dont quite look like the TRW 2465's I just put in my big block,could you elaborate a bit ??
Guy
 

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Everything I've seen come out of BillK's shop looks just like that, Bill and his men take special pride in their work.
 

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Everything I've seen come out of BillK's shop looks just like that, Bill and his men take special pride in their work.
Bill's Shop looks like Charlie's Machine Shop which is who we use, Charlie's is about 20min away from us, Bill is about an hour.

Billk or Walt @ Charlie's in Glen Burnie are the only ones i would use other than for head porting then i would use Larry @ ladds
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The block was previously decked, the picture doesn't do it justice. Carl had measured it, it was spot on for "0" deck and the surface condition was good so we decided to not cut it anymore.

Pistons are Probe. I had the reliefs flycut to clear the 2.30 intake valves on these Dart heads, then hit the remaining thin edge with a cartridge roll to eliminate any possible hot spot. A 2.19 or even 2.25 intake would not need any added work for fit. The reflief was plenty deep, just not enough radial clearance for the 2.30 intake valve. These pistons were nice though. Weights were very close, fully machined tops. Forgings are smooth quality. I only needed a pressed on piston for my rods, so these fit the bill.

Rick, this cam is a GenVI stepped nose style cam. Timing set is a Cloyes (-5) .005 oversize for line honed blocks. Just makes the chain a little tighter if the block is line honed. Talked to CLoyes, the chain and cam gear are the same, they just broach the crank gear slightly oversize.
 

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I had the reliefs flycut to clear the 2.30 intake valves on these Dart heads, then hit the remaining thin edge with a cartridge roll to eliminate any possible hot spot.
Joe. Glad to see you getting it all back together.:thumbsup: Wondering about the cartridge roll on the piston dome edges though. Where did you do it? The pistons in your pics still look factory. I "tootsie rolled" mine and finished by hand to remove all edges and hot spots. See pic below for a before and after.

 

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Joe. Glad to see you getting it all back together.:thumbsup: Wondering about the cartridge roll on the piston dome edges though. Where did you do it? The pistons in your pics still look factory. I "tootsie rolled" mine and finished by hand to remove all edges and hot spots. See pic below for a before and after.

wow...file-fit pistons :thumbsup:
 

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Joe. Glad to see you getting it all back together.:thumbsup: Wondering about the cartridge roll on the piston dome edges though. Where did you do it? The pistons in your pics still look factory. I "tootsie rolled" mine and finished by hand to remove all edges and hot spots. See pic below for a before and after.

Very nice work. Glad to see someone takeing the time to do things right. Makes for a better piece when your done.

Tom
 

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Carl is a great guy, I got my Dart little"M" from Carl it was beautiful!
 

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That should do the tick, Joe, looks great!

Dan
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
If you look closely at my pistons, you can clearly see where they were opened up to clear the 2.30 valves. There was stilla small (very thin) edge at the outside edge of the piston (your's has this also). I just used a cartridge roll to completely eliminate this as blend to pocket all the way to the edge. Not so sure it accomplishes anything except to eliminate any possible hot spot.
 
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