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Discussion Starter #1
I have a (64' El Camino with a 78' 305)
Please help, I was driving to school this morning and when I came up to the stop light not even a block from school my car decided to shut down so when I went to start it back up not a thing happened. My radio wouldn’t come on wipers stayed in wiping position no light came on, it was as if there was no battery, so my dad the loving parent he is took the battery out filled it with acid and charged it up. When I put it in after school nothing.
This is what has been checked:
· Battery
· Ignition(wireing is dead)
· Alteranter (has juice comeing from pos.)
· I bet fuse box is totally dead (haven’t checked yet)
· Pos plug in back of alternater is broken

The url below is where we think it is questionable.
http://keesefamily.tripod.com/help/94FB-9C1/relay.htm

My friend wants my dad to check out starter, seems no power is going to it.

PLEASE HELP


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Desk of
Patrick Keese


[This message has been edited by 64elky (edited 05-17-2002).]
 

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Hi Patrick, long time no talk.
First look around down by the fuse block. There are some spade terminals towards the left side. With a meter or test light see if there is any power down there.
Some will have power with the key off. Others will have power with the key on.
If you see power around the fuseblock, look on the top lower part of the steering column. There is a plug on the top with 2 purple wires on it. When you turn the key to the start position, you should have 12 volts on these wires. These are the power lines to the starter. Check out a couple of things and post back. The broken connector doesn't sound good either. Anyway, be cool.
John
 

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I get the privilege of solving his problem..:
· Battery checks just 12 Volts
· Pos to horn relay 12 Volts
· Red wire going From Horn Relay to Connector #2 to Bulkhead, “HOT”.// PartII\\
Fuse Box:
· Only one hot Battery.
Turned Key, to “ON”;
· All* show :HOT”, but around 3-4 Volts(To Dark to tell, looks like 3 Volts).
· * - Lamp is still Dead, no power
When pull head lights:
· All of the Above, but power at fuses is “0”, even the Battery Fuse is at "0"..


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Steven K.

I have tracked the Hot Pos Wire from the Connector#2, on the schimatics, to the Cigerette Lighter(14R) and the Ignition switch(12R)..
Boy that one "HOT" Red Wire from the Connector#2 going to the Ignition Switch slits off to the:
· Starter Scelinoid, when the key is turned
· Voltage Reculator
· Fuse Box, for Battery
· POS, on the Coil
And many more things..

I am betting on the ignition switch is bad??

Do you Concur?????????????????

[This message has been edited by 64elky's_Dad (edited 05-18-2002).]
 

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"Red wire going From Horn Relay to Connector #2 to Bulkhead, “HOT"

How did you measure this wire? Did you pull the outside bulkhead connector off and measure on the connector pin?

The red wire, from the horn relay goes to the outside corner pin on the outside bulkhead connector. From there it heads inside the car to the red ignition switch wire, the red cigarette wire, and the fuseblock.
If voltage is real low or either the red ignition switch wire or the cigarette wire:
Disconnect the battery.
Remove the outside bulkhead connector under the hood.
Reconnect the battery.
Measure the red wire in the bulkhead connector.
Guessing that either the wire from the horn relay to the bulkhead connector is the problem OR the bulkhead connector contacts are the problem.

Steven
You need to get power to the ignition switch and the fuseblock first. From what Patrick wrote you do not have this, unless I misunderstood. If you do not have 12 volts on the ignition switch red wire or the red cigarette wire problem is before the switch.



[This message has been edited by John_Muha (edited 05-18-2002).]
 

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I see 8 Volts at the ignition, untill I turn on the head lights and then it drops to "0"

I just played with the Connector #2 and it sparked, I pushed it in and made sure the plug was secure and started up the car..

That is what the problem is..

I did not say was, it neededs to be fixed..

Thanx John..

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Steven K.

[This message has been edited by 64elky's_Dad (edited 05-18-2002).]
 

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I'm assuming on the ignition switch red wire.
See if you can on the outside bulkhead connector red wire from under the hood. Leave it plugged in and shove a probe in there. See if the voltage there stays up to 12 volts when you pull the headlights on. Still sounds like a bad connection on the red wire ahead of the ignition switch. I assuming that every time you turn the headlights off, the voltage on the red wire comes back up.
I'm in and out. I'll try to keep checking back.
 

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Read my post above..
What you said was correct..

I will see if I can talk patrick into procuring a new Headlight Engine Compartment harness, if that is the problem.
If not, it will be the connector that will be procured for the Panel..
Thanx again John..

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Steven K.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hey john,
I just wanted to thank you for all of the help you have been contributing, it has been more helpful then you think. Sorry I havent been keeping in touch I’ve just been kind of busy with work and school.
Talk at you later


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Desk of
Patrick Keese

[This message has been edited by 64elky (edited 05-18-2002).]
 

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When Dad's not looking, slip some mods on the car. Parents think they have it all figured out. They think they are so smart. They are only learning.
Cool Beans.
John
 

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If I understand correctly, you wiggled the main power wire going to the bulkhead (firewall) connector and the power came back on and the car started. If so, you need to pull this all apart and see what's wrong before thinking about just buying a new front harness.

The wire could be just breaking off the connector and need to be re-connected. I don't know where but someone can probably give you a source for the connectors. Or, you can pry open the connector with a pointed object and re-crimp and solder it onto the wire again. It will have a little tab you have to push in to get it out of the plastic body.

Another possibility is that the connector is dirty and has failed. This would mean you probably need to replace both halves of the connector. Unfortunately, the connector on the back of the fuse panel is attached to the under dash wiring and can't be replaced seperately without splicing wires. The copper terminals tend to go brittle when they get hot.

The wires on the horn relay in your picture look dirty too so they could be contributing to the problem.

Peter
 
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