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I've got a new battery, starter, alternator, voltage regulator and battery cables. I've put a ground wire from the negative post to the fender& radiator support w/14 gauge wire. The positive side has the fusible link on, but after a few days I have to get a jump to get the car home.
I was at the car show tonight and the car wouldn't start. Got a jump, made it 2 miles down the road, the car died. Got another jump, same thing, eventually had to call the wife to have my brother bring me another battery.
Should I ground the negative to the frame? The fender itself? Use another ground wire, size?
I "heard" that if I pulled the positive cable off while the car is running and it dies, then the alt is bad...well I did this and the car died. But, just last week, I had the battery die in Adv Auto parking lot, and pulled the alt off and had it checked; came up good to go.
While I had the alternator off, the coupling that holds the wires in the back of the alt came out of the coupling. Well...I bought a new coupling that had wires already on it. So I spliced in the old wires w/the new wires and plugged it back in the back of the alternator. Now the new wires were blue and black. My old was yellow and black. Do I have these wires backwards?

Thanks in advance, 'cuz I know you guys/gals will help me out.
 

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I've got a new battery, starter, alternator, voltage regulator and battery cables. I've put a ground wire from the negative post to the fender& radiator support w/14 gauge wire. The positive side has the fusible link on, but after a few days I have to get a jump to get the car home.
I was at the car show tonight and the car wouldn't start. Got a jump, made it 2 miles down the road, the car died. Got another jump, same thing, eventually had to call the wife to have my brother bring me another battery.

"Should I ground the negative to the frame? The fender itself? Use another ground wire, size?"

The wire you mentioned above is fine. Need that along with the negative cable to the block. Wires to the frame do nothing to make the car run.

"I "heard" that if I pulled the positive cable off while the car is running and it dies, then the alt is bad...well I did this and the car died. But, just last week, I had the battery die in Adv Auto parking lot, and pulled the alt off and had it checked; came up good to go."

Next time you see that guy, shoot him. Yes, the "test" does tell you if the charging system is working or not. It's also hard on the alternator and could pop it. Every book will tell you not to hook up a jumper cable to the negative battery cable because of sparks. Yanking off and on the negative battery cable, with the engine running, does the same thing...sparks.

"While I had the alternator off, the coupling that holds the wires in the back of the alt came out of the coupling. Well...I bought a new coupling that had wires already on it. So I spliced in the old wires w/the new wires and plugged it back in the back of the alternator. Now the new wires were blue and black. My old was yellow and black. Do I have these wires backwards?"

Can't see your new connector. The original wiring was like this. Looking down on the alternator connector while the alternator is mounted in the car, the yellow wire is the upper wire or the wire that is closest to the top of the engine.
Alternators are not battery chargers. If the battery is run down, it needs to be charged up with a charger.
To test the charging system, idle the engine and measure the large red wire on the back of the alternator to ground. Look for around 14.5 volts. With the engine still running, measure the battery terminals. Expect around 14 volts there.
Something may be draining the battery but I'd check to see if it is charging first.
 
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