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Get a long socket attachment, and a plug socket, probably 5/8 and send it down there, aint the most fun job. You might have to move some air cleaner stuff depending on where the throttle body is located, can't remember GM 3.4s from Honda 3.0s from Ford POS's to Nissan 3.5s...gets confusing. But again, there might be wiring harnesses to move, pvc tubing, etc. But get a portable light and hang it on the firewall, some light is better than none. Remove whatever can be moved to make the job easier. Shortcutting it doesn't help. I just changed a valve cover gasket on a 96 Sunfire 2.4L (i think) and that was a PITA just to get to it...As far as the oil pan goes, nothing should be in the way of it, just a few bolts, 12 or 13 or something like that and it should drop right out.


BTW. If you could post any pics that would help immensely.
 

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Thats what my daily driver is...'95 Lumina 3.4DOHC. Plugs are pretty easy but the fact that they are so far down in the valve covers is kind of a PITA. The way I do my back ones (accessable from the top) is I have to drop a plug socket with a short extension down into the hole, and then reach a longer extension in the hole and hook them together. Be absolutely sure you put a little anti seize on the plug threads...you do NOT want to trying to repair plug threads on this engine. Also, if you've never had the intake gaskets replaced, I can almost bet that it needs them...this particular engine family seems to kill intake gaskets.
Oh, and have you had the pleasure of putting an alternator on it yet?
 

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The '95 is a different body style from my '92 and '93--but I have a tool that goes in place of the upper torque arm, and pulls the top of the engine forward--rocking it on the rubber mounts--so there is more clearance to work on the rear bank of cylinders.

There are a couple of variations of this tool. Mine is a turnbuckle that bolts to the engine bracket, and the other end hooks onto the rad support. The threaded nut 'n' rod pull the two together to rock the engine. The other style is a scissors arrangement, again hooks to the engine and the sheetmetal, and pulls the two together.

Either style works on the '90-'94 Lumina. I suppose it would work on the newer ones as well.

Don't even mention alternators. Next time I'm putting on an Iceberg conversion. I heard a story about alternators on these engines. Supposedly, the "Underhood" engineering crew lied to the Alternator engineering crew. The alternator (which is a marginal piece of junk with undersized rear bearings and a history of premature failure) is designed to live in an engine compartment that has a maximum temperature of "X" degrees, and the underhood crew signed off on the paperwork saying that the underhood temp of the car would not exceed that temperature--even though they knew it would be much hotter in there. So GM installs a marginal alternator in a hostile engine compartment. And then buries the thing so deep you might as well pull the engine to get it out. Or use dynamite.

How are the brakes on your '95? My '92 and '93 will warp the rotors with ONE hard stop from highway speed. Pathetic.

Yes, the intake gaskets are a known issue. Very similar to the Vortec 350 gaskets, having a plastic carrier and silicone rubber seals. Why are the most expensive gaskets the most failure-prone?

I also had a problem with the timing belt pulleys. Changed belts at 70,000, but at 90,000 the belt was about a quarter-inch too narrow! The dealership blamed the pulleys, and charged me full price again.

Aside from alternators and brakes, the 3.4 Lumina is a wonderful unit. I wish I could buy a new '92 again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I don't remember ever changing the alternator. The car is leaking everything at this point.... I replaced the water pump a few months ago and it is still leaking. I honestly hate this car.

As for brakes.... they haven't been right since my folks bought the car new. They've always squeaked or done something from the bery beginning.
 

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The 3.4DOHC is a little different than the much more common 2.8/3.1 engines. The shortblocks are about the same, but the spark plugs go right in thru the top of the valve covers, so the engine doesn't have to be moved at all. The brakes on my '95 suck too...and have since I got the car with only 28K miles on it and new pads/shoes was no help. Mine even has the dual piston front calipers but IMO the braking power at best is just adequate.
My 3.4DOHC Lumina starting running badly, especially when it was below 60* outside, when it had approx 75K miles on it. The intake gaskets has cracked in 3 places and was creating all kinds of vacuum leaks.
And the engineers that came up with the alternator arrangement on this car needed their a$$'s kicked. Mine went out at about 65K miles, and required dropping the engine cradle/engine/transaxle assembly about 18" to even get the alternator out of there. I farted with it for a while...gave up and took it to a professional. Shop rate is 8 hours, although the guy that did mine said he had just done one the week before and was able to do it in a little over 5 hours...and thats with a car lift and air tools.
Other than the pi$$ poor alternator arrangement, and mediocre brakes, I have been very pleased with my car. It gets about 27mpg on the highway, and runs pretty darn well, and other than the alternator and intake gasket, it has been reliable as a rock. I've got almost 135K miles on it now.
 

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How many miles on the timing belt?
 

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Next time you need to replace an alternator,unbolt the lower ball joint and pull the CV axle shaft completely out,then pull the 2 passenger side cradle bolts and lower the cradle about 6 inches.Then go about removing the alt.Doing it this way it should take about 1 1/2 to 2 hours.
I think that 8 hrs flat rate is way high,IIRC GM warranty time was under 2 hrs.I never got paid more than 2.5 hrs on that job.
Sorry didn't mean to highjack your post.
 

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I currently have a 99 Grand Am im doing an intake on at work. Its also a 3.4 liter. Its leaking just like they all do. I believe its not all that different then the Lumina even though yours is a 95. You may just have to fit a long extension and a swivel with your spark plug socket in the back to get the plugs out. A socket with a built on swivel would be nice.

I dont believe that model has the dog bone mounts on the front where you could remove them to move the engine forward. Just an engine mount that runs though the serpentine belt area on the front of the motor.
 

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Chris,
3.4 L DOHC V-6 is what he's talking about.Its a 4 valve motor thats based on the 2.8L 3.1L 3.4L line of 60 degree V-6 engines with some hopped up cylinder heads.
 
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