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I still need to run the drain hose, thinking about going thru the kickpanel rather than thru the firewall. I believe there are drain holes in the outer cowl where the kickpanel vents plug into.

That's what I did, used a couple 90"s to keep it close to floorboard and kick panel and out the hole in the lower cowl, you can see the edge of it (white piece) under one of the hoses.https://www.chevelles.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=609634&d=1575163180
 

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Discussion Starter #122
And that part number/supplier would be . . . . . . . . . . Inquiring minds want to know!
Well, going to have to dig around for that one! I'll check my Amazon account orders, I think thats where I got it.
 

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Discussion Starter #123
I go back and forth on these seats, some parts of them I like, some I don't.

I wish they could dial down that logo. Looks like they offer pretty good support, which really helps you enjoy the drive.

Either way, they'll look good in your car.

Sent from my SM-T720 using Tapatalk
I read that you can get them less logo but it'll cost you an upcharge!

The one thing that surprised me when I first opened the box was that there is a zipper on the back of the uprights! Sort of unsightly. I'll take a picture of it tonight.

I was unaware of this when doing the research but there's nothing I can do about it now. I'm sure I've looked at several sets over the last few years and don't recall seeing a zipper.
 
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Discussion Starter #124
Found a picture from an Ebay add.....

Since the zipper is black it really sticks out on my red seats.
 

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Discussion Starter #126
I asked if I could get them without the logo, they told me that was the one piece they couldn't customize. It is right in your face though...
Really? I read a Facebook post where a guy from TMI responded to several guys complaining about the logo and he said it could be done. Guess it depends on who you talk to!

Dan does your seats have the zipper on the back also?
 

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Discussion Starter #128
I still need to run the drain hose, thinking about going thru the kickpanel rather than thru the firewall. I believe there are drain holes in the outer cowl where the kickpanel vents plug into.

That's what I did, used a couple 90"s to keep it close to floorboard and kick panel and out the hole in the lower cowl, you can see the edge of it (white piece) under one of the hoses.https://www.chevelles.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=609634&d=1575163180
Mike, what material did you use to cover the heater hose clamps? I should have thought of doing that. I've had to reach up in there a couple times and cut myself on the sharp end of a clamp.
 

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Discussion Starter #129
So I have a fairly old Custom AutoSounds USA-6 stereo. I know there's a lot of better head units out there now but didn't want to wrap up another $500-$800 starting over and I had modified my dash bezel to fit it years ago. The speakers I have are Kenwood 50 watt RMS and seemed OK but always thought they needed an amp to bring them to life. Plus i wanted a way to stream music so I bought this:

Amazon.com: Kenwood 1177524 Compact Automotive/Marine Amplifier Class D Kac-M1824BT, 180W RMS, 400W PMPO, 4 Channel: Avenue Sound

Hope it will work as advertised! Can stream directly to the amp, also has a USB port to use for charging phone. Think I'm going to mount it under the rear seat and run the handheld under the carpet and exit under the seat. USB cord too.
 

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Mike, what material did you use to cover the heater hose clamps? I should have thought of doing that. I've had to reach up in there a couple times and cut myself on the sharp end of a clamp.
Hi tech stuff, cut up inner tube and zip ties. Was afraid I might hear a rattle on the inner fender.
 

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Really? I read a Facebook post where a guy from TMI responded to several guys complaining about the logo and he said it could be done. Guess it depends on who you talk to!

Dan does your seats have the zipper on the back also?
I was working with Michael Koldus from TMI when I ordered up mine...and I agree, maybe it was just who you talk to.

Here is part of that email exchange...

One more question. Do the seats come with that TMI logo on the upper seat by the shoulder? Is there anyway I can have that NOT on there? Probably not as it's your product, but figured I would ask.


Michael Koldus <[email protected]>
Jan 11, 2019, 6:49 PM
to me

Hello Daniel,



I apologize as we are unable to remove the tmi products logo but the good thing is the stitch is the same as color of the seat so its not like a black seat with a bright green logo or anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #133
I was working with Michael Koldus from TMI when I ordered up mine...and I agree, maybe it was just who you talk to.

Here is part of that email exchange...

One more question. Do the seats come with that TMI logo on the upper seat by the shoulder? Is there anyway I can have that NOT on there? Probably not as it's your product, but figured I would ask.


Michael Koldus <[email protected]>
Jan 11, 2019, 6:49 PM
to me

Hello Daniel,



I apologize as we are unable to remove the tmi products logo but the good thing is the stitch is the same as color of the seat so its not like a black seat with a bright green logo or anything.
That looks more offical than what I read on Facebook!
 
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I don't have a picture but I used a Gates 19201 Hose.
That hose appears to have numerous bends from what I could find. Did you find it necessary to have multiple 90° bends or would one single one suffice? Here's the Gates 19201 and the Gates 19045 that rmc65elco mentioned. Hopefully they are accurate representations!
 

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That hose appears to have numerous bends from what I could find. Did you find it necessary to have multiple 90° bends or would one single one suffice? Here's the Gates 19201 and the Gates 19045 that rmc65elco mentioned. Hopefully they are accurate representations!
I don't have a photo of the hose after it was trimmed down. But, it does require two turns, one to get thru the Vintage Air plastic kick-panel cover and a second to get thru the panel under the fender. The Gates 19045 had enough turns, at the right orientation and distance apart, to get the job done. I'm sure there are many others out there that will work. Just bend a coat hanger and head to the parts store. :smile2:
 

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Discussion Starter #137
That hose appears to have numerous bends from what I could find. Did you find it necessary to have multiple 90° bends or would one single one suffice? Here's the Gates 19201 and the Gates 19045 that rmc65elco mentioned. Hopefully they are accurate representations!
Dave, I only used about half of the hose. See picture below. As mentioned it take (2) 90 degree bends, the top heater hose nipple on the Vintage Air evap case run straight towards the side footwell cowl wall. First 90 needed there to head hose downward. Second 90 needed to bend hose through the Vintage Air vent filler panel and out through the firewall hose panel. I cut this hose off as it exited the firewall panel and installed the Vintage air shutoff valve there.
 

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Discussion Starter #138
A little more progress this weekend.

Secured back of radio
Installed Kenwood speakers into package tray
Decided to make a larger cutout of the trans tunnel so shifter can be removed from inside car. Need to fab a cover piece and install it with some clip nuts. If the trans ever has to be remove I think this is a wise move. Had a hard time installing trans because of the shifter stub. Will post a picture when done.
Wired back-up light switch
Installed antenna under dash

On the last item, not sure if this is going to work but it was free so I'm not out anything if it doesn't. I'm eliminating the exterior mounted antenna and wanted a hidden one. Lots if opinions on this but several guys had good results by placing their old mast antenna under the dash. So I cutoff the lugs on the fixed end and hung it in a couple of rubber lined clamps. I placed it so its not against any metal. We'll see!
 

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Haven't updated for a couple of weeks so here's what I've accomplished:

Completed wiring of reverse lockout module, and VSS wiring to Dakota Digital dash. Beware users of Holley HP ECM, its not compatible with the standard 2 wire inductive style speed sensor sold on most T56 aftermarket trans. Wanted to take the speed signal into the ECM then back out to the dash but would have to change over to a 3 wire Hall Effect style speed sensor to do so. Decided to wire the 2 wire VSS directly to the dash rather than mess around finding a solution now. Will try later after I get the car on the road this summer. It would be nice to have vehicle spped show when data logging for tuning.

Install courtesy footwell lamps under dash and completed that wiring.

Completed tunnel modifications for T56 shifter plate removal and install shifter boot/trim ring.

Performed auto calibrate of Vintage Air unit to ensure all modes working before installing discharge hoses.

Assembled factory A/C bezels and installed into corners of dash. Working on routing hoses, man does that suck.

Installed Vintage Air single under dash vent. Style matches vent cut into dash bezel.

Next up, finish dash assembly, install amp and speaker wiring.

Painter will be ready in a couple weeks.
 

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