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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay my 67 has a stinking little 283. The pervious owner put a mild cam in it had a valve job, lifters. valve springs, new timing chain, point conversion, holley 600, performer rpm, new alternator & water pump other than that is stock with 100,000 on the clock. It has a powerslide trans. Now for my problem when the car is cold and I start it let it worm up for about 30 sec runs good but in park only. The second I put it reverse it kind of stumbles then stalls also does the same thing in drive but not as bad. This also does happen when its worm. If it all wormed I mean fully worm and I park it lets say for 15 min then get in start it put it in reverse it wont stall nearly as easy but if I have my power steering cranked all the way and my foot on the break then it will stumble then stall. The car has ac and the other day I was running it the car was fully worm went to make a left turn with the ac on and I stalled. The idle is good almost a tiny bit high to try to counter act the stalling. I've tired making it richer then it smells like gas at idle (to rich) tired making it a little leaner. messed with the choke etc. etc. I called a buddy up he came over and messed with it, right after he is done tuneing,(maybe because its nice and worm??) it will run perfect till the next time it cools down then it starts stalling again. He is real good at tuning up carbs and he is now clueless I'm stupid I was thinking vacuum leak?? oh yeah I forgot to mention that it will only run good in park while cold if i really punch it a couple of times when I first start the car. The colder it gets the worse the stalling gets. I've tried a new cap rotor plugs. Wires looked fine.

sorry for the long post
THANKS FOR THE HELP

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Hot66ss

66 ss
67 malibu
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Hey Hot,
600 CFM is a little big for a 283 but; it sounds like you have a vacumn leak, your timing is late (retarded) or the idle circuit of the carb is plugged. Start the engine and slowly turn in each idle mixture screw. You should be able to kill the engine with either screw and it should stumble and die with about the same # of turns. If one kills it and the other doesn't, it's got some junk in it. Remove the screws one at a time and using LOW PRESSURE compressed air blow into the hole the screw came out of. Remove the air cleaner and put a rag over the top of the carb because some gas will come out. Replace the screws and reset the idle mixture using a vacumn gauge. You are looking for highest vacumn reading and smoothest idle, at the idle rpm specified. You may have to go back and forth a few times to get it. If that fixed it, clean the junk out of the carb and find out why it got past your fuel filter. Otherwise check your timing and look for a vacumn leak. Late timing will cause low vacumn, and a leak will cause a lean mixture. Post and let us know what you find. Good luck, mgg.

[This message has been edited by Manny Gomez (edited 07-21-99).]
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The car has no fuel filter. I will go buy one now
i will try this tommorow and see what happens.

Thanks



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Hot66ss

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67 malibu
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I can make it stall with either screw my buddy said that if the timing is off its no more than 2 degrease. So we will try retiming but he does not think its the timing but its worth a try. So what now?


Thanks for the help

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Hot66ss

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67 malibu
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If anyone has any ideas even if its just a shot in the dark PLEASE let me know.

Thanks (I'm almost ready to take it to a so called pro
)

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Hot66ss

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Never did see a vacuum reading. What is it?
My 64 still has the powerglide in it and it really pulls the RPM's down when I put it in drive. Lots of drag on the old tranny and torque converter.
Vacuum readings can tell you alot and should be used hand in hand with a timimg light. Mild cams can change your timing setttings as well as what kind of vacuum you get.
 

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Sounds like it may be a vacuum leak somewhere. Also, I'd suggest you try a bottle of dry gas or water remover. It may just be water in the fuel. I had the same problem about 4-5 months ago (idling rough, stalled at a couple of red lights, etc.) and a bottle of dry gas did the trick. Good luck to you and keep us posted!

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I dont think there is water in the gas. it runs perfect in park. ill check out the vacume reading, we have allways done it by ear

Thanks a lot



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Hot66ss

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Hey Hot,
It sounds lean! Stick a vacumn gauge on it; With a mild cam you can probably expect about 15 to 17 (steady reading)inches of vacumn at idle in neutral. Did you adjust the idle mixture with the engine hot and choke off? make sure you do it carefully. The vacumn reading should tell you if you have a leak. By the way, previous advice is good; the timing can be checked with the vacumn gauge also. Post what you find please. mgg

[This message has been edited by Manny Gomez (edited 07-24-99).]
 

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i always seem to have almost the same problem so i had a pro set it and he told me that it will hesitate untill all the junk is outa the carb. it hesitates when i just barely press the gas then jumps the acc. pump is working and it still does it 2 mos. later so im in a pickle like you i have a 307 mild cam and edelbrok intake/carb. let me know what ends up curing it. this is driving me CRAZY good luck jk
 

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I don't really have anything to add but I wouldn't describe your engine as a "stinking little 283". This is a good, reliable, and quite peppy engine that is one of my favourites. You may not be able to do sub 14 quarter miles, but in my opiniion, the power is adequate for this size of car. Good luck with solving your problem.

S Wild
 

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Here's my .02
No one has talked about the Ignition except for the timing. You said you have a points conversion, Petronix or HEI?? For HEI you need full 12 V to the coil, and for other elecronic igns as well. Also how is the cap rotor and wires? Plugs?? If you are rich at idle, it may be hard to keep the flame lit, thus stalling.
Also how old is the holley 600, maybe a quick dissasemble and clean up rebuild may be in order.

Frank

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I'd guess the acc. pump in the carb is not giving a shot of gas at small throttle movements like it should. Look down into the carb with engine off, and open the throttle real slow and look for a stream of gas shooting out in the front two throats. Those late 283s were pretty good engines actually. Sometimes looking at 250+ HP with hot setup. That's equal to an L98 Corvette in the 80s. The powerglide is the big drawback here, in my opinion. Boy, I sure get windy. tom
 

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Hey, I'm new at this but I had the same problem. It turned out to be little spring on the choke vacuum break. It was all twisted up. Disconnected it, bent the choke lever a little to compensate, and adjusted the carb mixture and it helped. We advanced the timing a little to adjust for the altitude here but I need a new vacuum advance so we didn't go to far. I still really need to put in the proper spring and choke break as I'm sure the diaphram is worn out there etc but its running a lot better. No more super rich mix and it doesn't stall as much but it is a tiny bit harder starting. Worth the trade off but its just my 2 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Tom3. I am going to put in a th350 as soon as I find a decent one at a decent price. I have a built th400 but I thought it would be to much for the engine to turn + I built it for a wild 454 and thought it would be a waist of an HD trans. Will a th350 really make that much of a dif?

Thanks for the help

I'll check these things out tomorrow

BTW the engine runs pretty strong in the upper end
 
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