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Discussion Starter #21
Well been a while since I've posted anything, but I'll go ahead and spit some new thoughts out.

So I've purchased all my rear end components (Thank you to those who helped with the axle lengths) as well as my rear Baer 4 Piston Disc Brakes. Managed to take apart all the front suspension and steering finally in one weekend.
The original steering linkage.
Front end done.

Followed up with dropping the rear end the next. Just gotta drain it from the oil and I'll chuck the whole thing in a burn off oven and prep it for powdercoating.


Managed to score a 350 and TH350 for a the best price.. free! I've slowly had a couple lovely surprises while going through it too that I need clarification on.


So my intentions were to ditch the alternator and bracket, valve covers, mechanical fan, carb, distributor, waterneck (duh), waterpump, and other things. As for the transmission, just going to give it to a local shop for rebuild. Already has a shift kit which is nice I guess.

So I go to tear it down and to my VERY pleasant surprise, roller rockers from Crane (1.5)
, and when showing my grandfather the engine he noticed it has camel hump heads too which was another good gift.


Could anyone either tell me anything about the heads, provided casting number for in the photo, or just the block in general. All I know is that both of the Engine and tranny are out of a '69 Chevelle and not much else. Also, is there anything else I should look for when tearing down the block? Uncle told me the pushrods look thicker, so little things like that.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Well I finally ran the numbers... I guess I was lied to? It appears the block and heads are off of a '69 Z-28??? Can anyone confirm please because I am now very curious
 

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Logan, your block is an 010 block which are generally desirable. They are 4 inch bore, large journal, possibly 4 bolt mains. Could be 302, 327 or 350 depending on the crank. Your heads are 186 castings, a later version of camel humps with mounting bracket holes in the ends. Should be about 160cc intake ports and 64cc chambers. That's the quick take. I'm sure others will add more

Devin
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Logan, your block is an 010 block which are generally desirable. They are 4 inch bore, large journal, possibly 4 bolt mains. Could be 302, 327 or 350 depending on the crank. Your heads are 186 castings, a later version of camel humps with mounting bracket holes in the ends. Should be about 160cc intake ports and 64cc chambers. That's the quick take. I'm sure others will add more

Devin
Yes yes I hope others will add more for sure because now I am very interested. I thought I was just getting a plain jane 350 with an intake so this is very cool for sure. When I clean off the front I'll be sure to see if I can read a DZ302 on the front (From what I've heard that is the number to look for)
 

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It could be a 300 horsepower 350 from a 1969 Chevelle. An 010 block could be either two or four bolt mains and have either a cast or forged crank, the 186 heads could either have 2.02/1.60 or 1.94/1.50 valves depending on the original application. You can quickly tell if the crane is fast or forged by looking at the parting line on the crank flange. If it's a small ridge it's cast, if the line is thick 1/4" to 3/8" it's forged. If you aren't sure, post a picture.

It's a nice foundation for a good street motor.

Steve R
 

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:thumbsup: looks like a great engine to build. 186 heads are pretty decent heads.

What are the plans for the rear? You know 64 use different spline cut on the axles than later years? But maybe you plan to change the carrier to?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
:thumbsup: looks like a great engine to build. 186 heads are pretty decent heads.

What are the plans for the rear? You know 64 use different spline cut on the axles than later years? But maybe you plan to change the carrier to?
For whatever my reasoning was a couple months back, I stuck with Yukon related products to purchase. I bought their Limited Slip Posi, 3.55 Ring And Pinion, both new axles, and a full rebuild kit with a T/A Differential Cover to put pressure on the bearing caps.
 

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For whatever my reasoning was a couple months back, I stuck with Yukon related products to purchase. I bought their Limited Slip Posi, 3.55 Ring And Pinion, both new axles, and a full rebuild kit with a T/A Differential Cover to put pressure on the bearing caps.
Than you will be fine since you replace both the carrier and axles.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Than you will be fine since you replace both the carrier and axles.
Yup Yup. Figured since I'm going to powdercoat it why worry. Basically just going to pop off the cap, drain whatever is left, and just chuck the whole thing in the oven at my work at 750 for two hours. I have all new shocks, springs, and everything else so I really only need the housing. Powdercoating it a nice satin black as always.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Back again! So the car itself hasn't gotten much love since the rear end pull as the rain has not been kind lately; however, the motor is in full swing of progression.

Fill in on the motor: It's a plain Jane small block 350 with a two bolt main. From the stamping on the pistons, it was recently bored over .030.



Rods for some reason have a bit of wear on the inside. My mind is that it was wearing up top and they just flipped them around :wacko:



So the block itself is a GM 3970010 V0307TKT (Flint, March 7th, 350 Conv. Cab) and the rear number confirms with C054 (March 5th, 1974). Any clue why the three days in between the stamping on the front and the stamping on the back?

Anyway, the heads are off of a Z/28 Camaro and to my lovely surprise, the cam is too. The cam is off of a 70 Z/28. Part Number: 3972178, in 24 ex 30, lift .452, .455 and 116 lobe sep. I think I'm going to change it to something that will give me a bit more of a chunk sound.

Spent the better half of today cleaning up the heads. It is still up in the air if I am going to bite the bullet for a set of aluminum heads, but only time will tell there.

Before my lovely clean job
After
And it turns out that my valves are 2.02 intake and 1.60 exhaust. Whether or not that was done factory or done in an aftermath is beyond me.
Still neat and content-ful progress in my mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Little bit of a mid-update here as I'm holding off before I pull the trigger on finishing up the internals for the 350. Cleaned up the piston heads a bit with a Nylon brush and a little bit of elbow grease.


Next was of course a little bit of love on the very ugly intake the previous owner had running. First image is before, second is after blasting, and third is with the new Cerakote Ceramic High Heat Clear Matte finish. It should dull a hair more once put on the car and given a bit of heat. Regardless, happy with the look for sure.




And they say chivalry is dead. Purchased it a lovely Valentine's day gift of an Air cleaner and Valve covers from ProForm Parts. Love the finish and it should look pretty kick ass next to the intake and sitting on that orange block.
 

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Logan, just so you know- You can't put a Holley on that intake with the vacuum fitting you have installed. Don't know what carb you plan to run. That is a good intake, just a problem with them I have run into.

Devin
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Logan, just so you know- You can't put a Holley on that intake with the vacuum fitting you have installed. Don't know what carb you plan to run. That is a good intake, just a problem with them I have run into.

Devin
Not a problem not a problem. Got an MSD Pro-Billet ready to run distributor and going to hook it up to a MSD 6AL Box that I also got. Hopefully the issue isn't still there, I have no clue.
 

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Logan- That's a good ignition system you have there, but I'm not sure you understood what I was talking about. There is a vacuum fitting sticking up behind the carb flange. It's about 1-1/2 inches tall. It will sit directly under the rear bowl on a typical Holley carb.



This is mine. My pointer finger is on the plug I have in mine. I'm pretty sure the Edelbrock engineers intentionally designed it this way to work with their carbs, but not the competition (Holley.)

This is a shot from the driver's side. you can't see it but you can see where the rear carb bolts are and how far the bowl hangs over the rear of the intake.



If you're planning on using an Edelbrock carb, all this is a non-issue.

Devin
 

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Logan, just so you know- You can't put a Holley on that intake with the vacuum fitting you have installed. Don't know what carb you plan to run. That is a good intake, just a problem with them I have run into.

Devin
There are solutions such as a spacer, there are also low profile fitting such as PSS. You may need to use a combination of spacer, thick gasket, heat dissipated plate and/or low profile fitting, the work around shouldn't stop you from using any particular carb.

Steve R
 

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Discussion Starter #36
If you're planning on using an Edelbrock carb, all this is a non-issue.
I clearly didn't read what you said at all. I do intend to use an Edelbrock Carb.

Anyway,

New Parts check in:



Today: Block for prepping


She's all painted:



The reason I did not paint the oil pan and the timing chain cover is because I have new ones that I will end up powder coating them orange. Valve covers and intake were just extra to avoid having to tape everything up. Will update probably sometime next week when things get a little more complete.
 

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Nice progress so far!! I'm just about to start my thread.

You interested in selling your old springs? :)
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Nice progress so far!! I'm just about to start my thread.

You interested in selling your old springs? :)
Yes sir got front and back both sets freshly powder coated in a satin black finish that would be the same color as every other GM A-Body black. Private message me if you're interested and if you possible need some other things, I have a whole bunch of parts that I have been coating and bagging just waiting to throw up for sale.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Big Updates ( I guess)

Pulled all the components out of the rear end. 3.08 gears. Pretty much plain. Burned, Blasted, and Powdered.






Haven't found anything decent enough for a new-timer to rebuild it, so I have yet to find someone I can pay that I know does good work.

A-arms, backing plates, spindles, steering arms all coated and ready to go. Not using backing plates, but hey they look good now lol.


Finished on the bottom internals with new pump / other goodies. All sealed up. Always loved the look of unpainted freeze plugs. Makes it clean in my opinion.





Can't stand working in small table space, cleaned up the setup a bit. Lucked out getting the area that I have at a shop.



Mocked up the engine after I bolted on my Performer RPM Heads. Planning on buying push rods, carburetor, headers, and pulley system next Sunday at a warehouse show. Happy with out it came out, just need to pull a balancer off another small block and I can throw on the waterpump to touch up my terrible tape job (not happy about that one but it's my own fault)


Continued in next post
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Spent the first day of my lovely college spring break cleaning out the car. Props to my parents for letting me be a burden in the driveway.







Still a long long way to go with where I am at. The price for the paint is slowly sneaking up on me and starting to scare me a tad but I'll make it work.

Will try to keep updated as best I as I can with the hopefully finishing of the engine shortly. Might have a guy for the rear end and have yet to bring my TH350 to a shop to clean as I was waiting to purchase my heads before dipping into the budget a bit more. Should be fun.

Cheers.
 
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