[davewho1]

I'm assuming they're not all the same. New to Muncies, so go easy on me ...

A guy has a 3851325 Muncie for sale, comes with shatter proof bellhousing and Hurst shifter and linkage. No tailshaft housing. $500. Says it has maybe 2K miles since a rebuild.

Not able to count the splines/grooves yet, cuz it's still hooked up to a transfer case. But he says he will get it apart and check.

That shows to be a 64/65 M-20, which is close to what I'm looking for.

Are tailshaft housings easy to come by for that case? Price range? Is that a decent price for one of those?


Thanks a lot! :thumbsup:

 

[1966_L78]

I'm assuming they're not all the same. New to Muncies, so go easy on me ...

A guy has a 3851325 Muncie for sale, comes with shatter proof bellhousing and Hurst shifter and linkage. No tailshaft housing. $500. Says it has maybe 2K miles since a rebuild.

Not able to count the splines/grooves yet, cuz it's still hooked up to a transfer case. But he says he will get it apart and check.

That shows to be a 64/65 M-20, which is close to what I'm looking for.

Are tailshaft housings easy to come by for that case? Price range? Is that a decent price for one of those?


Thanks a lot! :thumbsup:

WITH the bellhousing and shifter, but missing thetailshaft, $500 sounds decent.... I'd make sure everything is okay though...

 

[Mike]

It's close to what you want but it's got a 7/8" bore.
You might want to wait for a 1" bore which is the 66 -up case.

 

[MEJ1990TM]

Not a bad price I would say. That being said I would stay away from the 325 cases if you are going to beat on the car. I'd try and find an 010 case. That would be correct for a '66, if that's what you are after. Tail housings are pretty easy to come by. I would guess the shifter rods are different. I'm not sure how the shifters mount on those 4x4 transmissions.

 

[davewho1]

Thanks, guys.

The 7/8 or 1" bore is the countershaft bore, correct?

While I would like to find a '66 M-20 just because, it isn't a big priority, since the car came with a 'glide and it won't be correct anyway. So, not a big deal on the year ...

I'm not planning on doing any speed-shifting or the like, but I do want a trans that will last. I may hit the lotto and put a 540 in it someday. l

 

[Mike]

Yes ,countershaft bore.

 

[Pete 67]

Avoid the 7/8" countershaft Muncies like the plague.

2k miles on a rebuild, but the tailshaft housing is now MIA?

Since the car didn't come with a 4 speed anyway, I would be less concerned with date codes & focus more on strength & reliability. My opinion is pass on this deal quickly & hold out for a later HD Muncie with a 26 spline input / 32 spline output.

 

[MEJ1990TM]

Pete, from what I gathered this was hooked up to a transfer case. Of course now that I think about it the main shaft would need to be changed. I prefer the 26/32 set up transmissions as well. That's what both Chevelles are set up for.

 

[Pete 67]

I missed that part. Anyway, if that's the case, it's doubtful that shifter would even work for a Chevelle. This deal becomes less appealing by the minute.

 

[davewho1]

Thanks for all the advice, gentlemen.

I'm gonna pass on this "deal" and wait for something better, stronger, faster, and more complete. No big rush.

 

[MEJ1990TM]

I'll make you a hell of a deal on a 1965 M21 1/2.






Not really. I need a clunker M22 I can beat on so I can save my nice legitimate M22.

 

[davewho1]

I'll make you a hell of a deal on a 1965 M21 1/2.

Not really. I need a clunker M22 I can beat on so I can save my nice legitimate M22.

Didn't you have a later M-20 recently?

 

[MEJ1990TM]

I had a '67 M-20 that I sold. I also had a 26 spline M20 input gear when I was going to build an M20 for my car. I ended up building the M22 instead. Thus the M21 1/2 comment.