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2000 Trans Am WS6
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had this same exact issue on my old 402 engine, with an MSD Street Fire HEI, but when replaced with a Pro Billet, #8926 (I think?), it seated fine...

The new 439 has the same MSD Pro Billet distributor sitting not quite flush with the intake as well???

You can definitely hear that it isn't going down all the way when you drop it in...nice, solid "clunk", like it's bottomed out. It's not much, but it's not all the way down on the new gasket either. Is it safe/wise to double up the gasket to prevent leaks. It runs fine and doesn't wobble or anything, but it is something I noticed yesterday trying to fire up the new engine.

Anybody have this issue?

If so, what was the resolution. Being about WELL OVER BUDGET (for this "over the Winter build that is done already, LOL) :sad:, I'd really, REALLY, hate to buy ANOTHER brand new MSD distributor with a slip collar, but what other options do I have?
 

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Am I the only one that keeps it simple and stacks gaskets under dizzies mounted to mills with machined heads? Stack em up Bob. I may be wrong, but it's tested at 7000rpm and often enough. Remember than you only get one chance to re-stab it in before you have to move the oil shaft slot over a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Bob, by not seated you mean how far?
Probably the thickness of an extra gasket, possibly two, depending on their thickness. I haven't really had a chance to get a precise measurement with feeler gauges, so that's just a guesstimate.

Am I the only one that keeps it simple and stacks gaskets under dizzies mounted to mills with machined heads? Stack em up Bob. I may be wrong, but it's tested at 7000rpm and often enough. Remember than you only get one chance to re-stab it in before you have to move the oil shaft slot over a bit.
I just didn't want to "shim" it up if there was a chance of creating other issues. You know me and added issues are...lol. :D

It does run, and sound pretty good, so that's a plus. My new carb should be here tomorrow. A QFT SS-830. Right n ow, just to get it running, is a Holley Street Avenger 670 VS with a dual feed fuel line that will NOT stop leaking...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Your choice Moroso # 26150 .030 - .060 - .100 shim pack or machine collar off your dizzy and install adjustable collar # 26217. I use that collar on my GM hei dizzy
That looks like that would work great for me. I never seen those before.

Thanks for the part number. :thumbsup:
 

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Am I the only one that keeps it simple and stacks gaskets under dizzies mounted to mills with machined heads? Stack em up Bob. I may be wrong, but it's tested at 7000rpm and often enough. Remember than you only get one chance to re-stab it in before you have to move the oil shaft slot over a bit.
Gene, you are wrong. Just not in this case. My personal record is 4 FelPro stacked with zero issues, and more importantly, no leakers.
 

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Check to make sure it is not binding in the block. I bought a 8361 for the Nova and it would not go in. The stock distributor went in and out easily. I saw scratches on the lower distributor body "seal ring" if you want to call it that. Measured this compared to the old one and it was larger. Sanded it with 200 grit sand paper until it slid all the way in.
 

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I ran into this recently on my new motor...slipped another gasket in there and it seemed to do the trick. Timing was rock-steady at 3K, so I felt like it was OK.
 

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Andy, I've only had to use two to seat it, on those old 074 heads milled a gazillion times. 112cc chamber. 4 is THICK. I guess I would use a brass/alum spacer. Reckon it better to stack 'em than to put too much downforce on the helix gear or oil shaft.
 

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So...what exactly are we shooting for? A seated collar with the drive pin engaged but not bottomed out in the pump? Blastime you seem to be suggesting that. Not stirring the pot just wondering what kind of tolerance there is here.
 

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absolutlely, positively don't want the distributor bottoming out on the driveshaft, which in turn is bottoming out on the drive gear in the pump. With spacers/gaskets/whatevers in and the dist bolt tightened up there must a little up and down play in the dist shaft. just pop the cap, pull up on the rotor. if it won't move up at all it's bottoming out and destroying the oil pump. If you don't have the oil filter bypass blocked off it's feeding the grindings directly into your main and rod bearings among others.
 

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Thanks Tom, I will be checking that first thing in the morning:thumbsup:
 

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is there any way to check the gear contact pattern with the cam to make sure it's sitting at the right spot?
 

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i use white or yellow lead like you use for checking tooth pattern on a ring and pinion.put the dist in and turn over a couple of revolutions.pull it and check it.i try to get the contact pattern in the middle of the gear if possible.make sure the oil pump shaft isnt bottomed out
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well....I definitely don't want shavings in my new motor, or a busted oil pump, so I'm going to buy the Moroso nylon shim kit, throw a nickel in the wishing well, and hope for the best. It's only 5 bucks and evidently easier to buy around here than spare distributor base gaskets.

Ironically, the Chinese made MSD Street Fire distributor didn't have this issue, but the American made Billet one (that cost double) does...:sad:

Thanks for the replies.
 
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