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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For the fun of it, I think I'm gonna move the battery to the smugglers box on my elky.

Normally the battery is grounded to the engine. I'm gonna just ground it to the frame. But I suspect that I need to add a ground strap from engine to frame?

Should I run the +cable along side the frame rail up to the starter, or can I run it inside the frame up to that area?

Has anyone done something similar (smuggler's box for the elky, or trunk for a car)?

TIA

>>>Rod<<<

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>>>Rod<<<
A.C.E.S. # 2894
Team Chevelle #115
 

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Rod, your choice. I think I would like to have my battery cable tightly fastened to the frame where I could see it. Yes you will need to run a substantial ground strap from the engine to the frame. For a few more bucks you can put a remote solenoid in the system while you got it apart.

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Mike Crosby
 

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I have the battery in my 67 in the smuggler's compartment. It is grounded to the frame under the battery. I have a 0 gauge cable to the starter. I also have a 10ga wire going back to the front for power for the rest of the car. And another 10ga going to the one wire alt. I also have a shut off switch at the rear of the car. If you're not going to race, the shutoff switch isn't not needed.

What I suggest is bring the main + battery cable to the front and attaching it to a heavy terminal block then run a cable to the starter. This will also give you a place to make hookup for the rest of the car with no need to run any other wires to the back. A ground cable from the engine to frame will be needed.

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Pat Kelley
66 & 67 El Caminos

[This message has been edited by Pat Kelley (edited 07-13-99).]
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Mike,

As far as the solenoid - been there, done that, got the t-shirt.

One of the best things I ever did - I keep having to remember - "It's not a FOOORRRRD solenoid - It's a Summit solenoid!"


>>>Rod<<<
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Pat,

I was thinking that the frame directly under the smuggler's compartment would save a whole bunch of cable.

Great idea about the heavy terminal block. I'll look for one - I'll start at Summit, or maybe just go to my local "BIG A".

Now one for the alternator? hmmm... would that be different from the internal regulator, or would they be the same?

I was thinking about a shut-off switch. But now I'm thinking about just a shut-off switch to the starter. That way I could throw it when I was going to leave the car unattended for any length of time. (Mess with car thieves, radio & lights work but not starter - and hood is locked down. Oh, break hood - no battery?)

Thoughts?

good ideas!

>>>Rod<<<
 

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In 1967 I put the battery in the trunk of my 51 Chev, been there ever since. About 2yrs ago it got very difficult to start. I discovered the bolt for the ground cable to the frame connection in the trunk had become very corroded in 30yrs. Took it all apart, wire brushed the hell out of it, and put it all back together with stainless 3/8 bolt, washers and nut. Now when I hit the starter, you would think it had been hit by a bolt of lightning.
Also, a number of years ago, I discovered a ground cable up front from the frame to a bell housing bolt near the starter helped a lot. Use heavy battery cables, good connections to a premium battery and an extra ground cable up close to the starter.

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[This message has been edited by DZAUTO (edited 07-13-99).]
 

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Rod,
It wouldn't hurt to put the starter shut-off in, but if you plan on bringing the 'mean-o to the track, the switch has to be mounted on the outside-rear of the car. coupled with the fact that it needs to be between the positive side of the battery and the fuse box and/or starter.
I don't know if I explained that very well but the purpose of the shut-off (for drag racing) is that when it's switched off NOTHING in the car has power.

I like the idea about messing with the thieves though!

------------OFF THE SUBJECT-----------

That reminds me of something I did to mess with thieves.
I had a piece of junk Torino (of course!) and the only thing of any worth in it was the sterio. So I epoxied razor blades sticking out of the back of it so when the scumbags reached back there to cut/disconnect wires...well you get the idea.

About a year goes by...I came out to my car in the parking lot of my work and the car was trashed; glass smashed,headlights,tail lights,dashboard etc., and they took my radio. The best part was there was bloody smears on my interior which prooves it worked! (he,he,he) I'm guessing they were not very happy with my anti-theft system so they trashed the car.
The $50.00 that I paid for the car was well worth seeing proof that it worked! Besides... IT WAS A FORD ANYWAY!

Mike

[This message has been edited by MIKE_D_67 (edited 07-14-99).]
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Maybe I should start a new thread here -

I went down to my local "Big A", and the only battery boxes that he has is a flimsy unit for a boat ($16) - not strong enough to bolt down, etc.

I look in the Summit catalog, and the Moroso & Mr Gasket units are almost $100. Is there no in-between? Or is this what I really need. I'm also just thinking, why not just a normal battery hold-down clamp? If I use an Optima Battery, it is completely sealed. Their literature says that you can even mount it in any direction, including upside down.
Well, if that's the case, I don't really even need a hold down (wrong). Just let it lay in the smugglers box, bouncing around... not hardly.

I also don't see any heavy duty terminal blocks anywhere. I'm thinking at looking at one of those stereo stores that do a lot of show cars, to see what they use. They seem to use lots of batteries, capacitors, extra do-dads (a technical term), etc.

Any thoughts?

>>>Rod<<<
 

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The selonoid acts as a relay between the battery and starter. This allows you to wire 12v from the battery to the starter solinoid
eliminating the voltage drop that occurs thruogh the starter switch. The only thing ford did right! This eliminates hot start problems.
 

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I have an Optima battery with just a tray and hold down, no box.

I was hoping you would find a terminal block. I ended up making mine out of a piece of delrin and a bolt. The hard part is recessing the plastic for the bolt head. Luckily, I had a mill at my disposal. A drill will work, also.

I used 0ga welding lead cable for wiring the shut down switch. I like it because it has very fine wire (more current capacity) and is very flexable. I found ends for it all over the place but you will probably need to go to a welding suppy to have them put on. Probably better would be soldering them on. Heat shrink isn't a bad idea either.


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Pat Kelley
66 & 67 El Caminos

[This message has been edited by Pat Kelley (edited 07-14-99).]

[This message has been edited by Pat Kelley (edited 07-14-99).]
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Pat,

Actually, I went to
www.partsexpress.com

They deal in stereo stuff, and they do have blocks. I actually haven't seen one physically, but the pics there do show every combination - including fuzed & unfuzed - 1 gozinta, 2 gozinta, with multiple gozoutas.

So you can use 1/0, 2, 4, 8 as inputs, and 2, 4, 8, 10, 12 as outputs. Seem that 4's in and multiple 4's out are the most common.

You can get them as a block, or as part of the battery post. In this application, I think the block is better, but I could see the post version being very handy. The post versions come in the + or - config, (where the + is bigger - why is that?)

It's interesting, they have a version for the block where you have the + and - input on one end, and several + and - outputs on the other end (3 of each, I believe).

However - they do not give away these blocks. Of course, they are very trick - gold plating, you dont have to trim back the sheath insulation, etc, etc.

I can see how the stereo folks can spend mega bucks for cabling and connectors. very impressive.

>>>Rod<<<
 
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