[onick]

tried to get the rest of my linkage in today, but i again hit a snag. I'm pretty sure that i am putting in evreything correctly, but it looks as if the frame bracket for the z-bar is kind of crooked and the z-bar looks as if it should be closer to the block. I can't get the clutch adjustment rod on the lower z-bar arm because it won't clear the headers. It is either i put the linkage in wrong, or will have to take a hammer to my Hooker ceramic coated Comp headers . What do you guys think? Never thought linkage would be givin me this much trouble:sad: Some pics might explain better......

 

[jtm60]

Is this a big block?

At any rate..the 3rd pic looks like the whole zbar is misaligned from frame mount-block..looks like the motor needs to come up some..I'd double check the motor mount&frame stands for your application.

The Zbar linkage looks bent toward the block side...let me guess, is this a repro z-bar? MAY REQUIRE A TWEAK!!

Are you sure you have the proper seat/stud/retainer (all the little parts that plug into the hollow end of the zbar)?...if these are not all there, or installed improperly, it could possibly give you the offset problem/header interference.

Some headers may require strategic bashing for clearance (or so I have read)..My dynomax's are either 1.75 or 1.875" and did not.

 

[onick]

its a 327 in my 68. I got the auto to manual conversion kit from ground up. Supposed to work for all 68-72 chevelles. Everything in this pic is accurate to what i have. Almost positive that the seat/stud/retainer is installed right. So possibly motor mounts too? Because from what i can see, the frame bracket looks like it isn't bent right.
http://http://www.ss396.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=396&Product_Code=FMCK-68

 

[Tom's 68]

did you bolt the frame bracket to the area that holds a metal bracket for something to do with the brake lines - it goes in that same set of holes with that sheetmetal thingy bolted to the top of it
if I remember correctly

 

[onick]

There was no sheetmetal on the frame where it was mounted. It was right by a brake line dist block i think. The holes i mounted it to were the only 2 holes there that were close enough to consider for the bracket

 

[Tom's 68]

There was no sheetmetal on the frame where it was mounted. It was right by a brake line dist block i think. The holes i mounted it to were the only 2 holes there that were close enough to consider for the bracket

yeah maybe that is what I was thinking of - it sounds like you got the right two holes

 

[jay]

That Z bar should be level. Did anyone "move" the location of the block stud ? As in welding and retapping a new hole ? If not,try taking out the engine mount bolts and jacking up the engine and see what that looks like.

 

[onick]

That Z bar should be level. Did anyone "move" the location of the block stud ? As in welding and retapping a new hole ? If not,try taking out the engine mount bolts and jacking up the engine and see what that looks like.

No, this car has been an auto, and when i istalled the ball stud on the block, it seemed to be as if it had nevr been used/tampered with. I will try jacking up the engine tomorrow. If it helps, what, new rubber engine mounts needed?

 

[RatONaStick]

obviously you have the trans removed according to the pics.

did you support the rear of the engine to keep it from tilting back??

if not, thats most likely your problem.

 

[RatONaStick]

No, this car has been an auto, and when i istalled the ball stud on the block, it seemed to be as if it had nevr been used/tampered with. I will try jacking up the engine tomorrow. If it helps, what, new rubber engine mounts needed?

evidently you didnt support the back of the engine, your engine mounts are probably fine. even new mounts will allow the engine to tilt back with no trans to keep the rear of the engine supported.

 

[onick]

wow, i can't believe i didn't think of that:clonk: makes sense., ill support it tommorrow and see if that helps any. Guess i just need to take a step back, thanks

 

[RatONaStick]

no problem, ive been there myself plenty of times.

 

[jtm60]

Ok, I can see how having the trans mount installed would help rotate the motor forward, thus getting the header somewhat out of the way..however, based on the photos it still looks like the entire motor needs to be raised relative to the frame/frame mount for the z bar.

Again...just because you got the repop zbar from Gu doesnt mean its perfect...Its Taiwan Crap! Double and Triple Check it!!!!!

Aside from that, do you know the full history of the car? It is very possible that your motor is sitting on frame stands that are too low for your application, thus tilting the Zbar as seen in your photo above..

I have the same zbar, from the same place...mine was ok, but repop quality requires that you nitpick each and every part, especially on something as critical as this. The one photo you posted definitely makes the zbar look suspect.

 

[RatONaStick]

Ok, I can see how having the trans mount installed would help rotate the motor forward, thus getting the header somewhat out of the way..however, based on the photos it still looks like the entire motor needs to be raised relative to the frame/frame mount for the z bar.

Again...just because you got the repop zbar from Gu doesnt mean its perfect...Its Taiwan Crap! Double and Triple Check it!!!!!

Aside from that, do you know the full history of the car? It is very possible that your motor is sitting on frame stands that are too low for your application, thus tilting the Zbar as seen in your photo above..

I have the same zbar, from the same place...mine was ok, but repop quality requires that you nitpick each and every part, especially on something as critical as this. The one photo you posted definitely makes the zbar look suspect.

jtm

he has nothing supporting the rear end of the engine. no trans, mount or anything, the azz end of the engine has sagged from the weight without support. since the inside ball stud is actually screwed into the rear of the block, any sagging at the rear of the engine will cause the inside of the z-bar to fall with the rear of the block.

once he either supports the rear of the block or installs the trans, the rear of the block will come up and the inside of the z-bar will follow with it levelling it out and pulling the lower arm away from the header. you would be surprised just how much an engine will sag with nothing supporting the rear of the block.

Nick

personally if it were me, id go ahead and install the trans and all related components to get the engine back where it supposed to be. sure you can support the engine with a jack or whatever, but you will just be guessing as to how much the engine has to come up. at that point you will be able to tell whether you need to adjust anything or there is anything out of wack.

oh, and dont forget the check your distributor to make sure it didnt contact the firewall and get damaged.

 

[jtm60]

jtm

he has nothing supporting the rear end of the engine. no trans, mount or anything, the azz end of the engine has sagged from the weight without support. since the inside ball stud is actually screwed into the rear of the block, any sagging at the rear of the engine will cause the inside of the z-bar to fall with the rear of the block.

once he either supports the rear of the block or installs the trans, the rear of the block will come up and the inside of the z-bar will follow with it levelling it out and pulling the lower arm away from the header. you would be surprised just how much an engine will sag with nothing supporting the rear of the block.

Nick

personally if it were me, id go ahead and install the trans and all related components to get the engine back where it supposed to be. sure you can support the engine with a jack or whatever, but you will just be guessing as to how much the engine has to come up. at that point you will be able to tell whether you need to adjust anything or there is anything out of wack.

Ok, the more I thought about it, the more this started making sense..agreed that having the tranny/mount in place will certainly help out quite a bit. I installed my motor and trans together, with pivot ball already in place on the block with no issues using GU parts.

Based on the pics that should remedy the zbar being angled down when viewed from behind the motor.

He may still have side to side issues to deal with, and/or header clearance problems that need to be overcome.

 

[RatONaStick]

He may still have side to side issues to deal with, and/or header clearance problems that need to be overcome.

i agree, which is why i think going ahead and installing the trans is a good idea. that way there is no question as to whether the engine is in the right spot or not.

 

[onick]

thanks for all the input guys, looks like i will try to put the trans in to see how the z-bar will relocate. I think that having a loose setup now will still allow me to use the "friend push in the clutch" method to get the nose into the pilot bearing. Just checked and the dist is still pretty far away from the firewall, so thats all good. Once again, thanks for all the responses- Eric