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Discussion Starter #1
I know this has been covered a thousand times but its got me stumped. When my Elco gets hot(200+)it doesn't want to start. When I turn the key the solinoid clicks and that's it. Also the water temp guage and the ammeter peg. This never happened until this summer.
I've replaced the battery and battery cables, installed a Powermaster mini-starter(plenty of header clearance), and installed a new wiring harness including the purple wire to the starter. I've even grounded the neg battery cable to the block instead of the alternator bracket with no luck. When I jump the starter with a screwdriver it turns every time. There's a big car show/cruise this weekend and its definetely going to be hot. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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1001. You are getting poor voltage on the purple wire. The screwdriver trick bypasses the purple wire, thats why it works everytime. Since you already replaced the harness, check the IGN switch and the neutral safety switch. Bad contacts in these switches put resistance on the purple wire circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply undee70ss. I've replaced all the underhood wiring but I haven't touched the mess under my dash. I'll start with the ignition switch and nuetral safety switch.
 

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I would install a "hot start" solenoid. It is very simple to install using a constant duty type solenoid and some simple wiring that I can tell you how to install in about an hour. The purpose of the hot start is that it puts full battery voltage and amperage to the "start" side of the starter solenoid. Let me know if you want me to tell you how to wire it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hey Randy, that sounds like a good idea. Can you tell me how to wire it up? Thanks...Chris.
 

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The original purple wire goes to 86 on the relay.
 

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I'm watching this post closely as I'd like to resolve my "heat soak" issue as well which it doesn't help that I've got 22 initial timing either. How do I know if my selonoid is one of the constant duty type that Randy mentions? Also, do I have the 30 amp relay already in the car(firewall?) or does that need to be purchased? What gauge wires should be used?

Sorry to jump into your post BigBlock but maybe we can learn together.
 

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This diagram is the stock wiring. You need to add the relay and the associated wiring. The relay will provide a direct path from the battery to the solenoid coil. I would use 10 gauge wire from the battery to 30 and from 87 to the solenoid. The other wiring can be smaller as the current is much less.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I just replaced my ignition switch and nuetral safety switch to be safe because they looked like they had seen better days. The starting problem hasn't returned yet but I'm going to add that relay just for some extra insurance. Thanks!!
 

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I thank you too as I'm calling about a 30 amp relay today and will hopefully resolve this issue. My neutral safety switch has been removed by previous owner and jumpered but that doesn't change anything, correct? I will still hook the purple to 86 on the relay?
 

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You can get the relay in any auto parts store or Radio Shack. Just ask for a 'Bosch' relay.
 

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Does it need to be grounded with a wire or does attaching it to the rad support or firewall ground it? Napa has a 4 wire relay instead of 5 as on the diagram and I don't want to screw it up.
 

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Does anyone have the part # of the Bosch relay I need? Napa is trying to cross reference it for me.

thanks
 

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Got the correct relay from NAPA but I've got one more question: What kind of connector do I use to hook the 10 gauge wire up to the battery terminal/cable? I already have one small wire coming out of the cable end going to the radiator support but it's built right in to the cable end.
 

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Originally posted by John_Muha:
No such thing as a hot start relay. Undee70ss answered Bigblock71SS's question.
Maybe we could call it a 'cost effective' relay. The $8 part will do the same thing as replacing all the wiring and components.
You really don't have 'poor voltage' on the purple wire, you have insufficient current flow. Solenoids are current operated devices. Changing the circuit load from the low resistance of the starter solenoid to the relatively high resistance of the relay coil makes the series resistance of the original circuit minor and significantly reduces its current requirements. Instead of having to carry 8 amps reliably, you need only carry 100 miliamps to energize the relay. Once the relay is energized, it will easily supply the necessary current.
 

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Just a magazine myth to Band-Aid an existing problem.
Fix the real problem and the car will start. I don't need a relay to operate another relay. At least I haven't yet.
JMO
Don't remember when GM started adding a Ford relay under the hood.
 

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I recently installed some performance parts on a 2004 Silverado - you wouldn't believe how many relays the General puts in cars these days. All kinds of little electrical functions are controlled with relays, even the nitrous system.
I never said anything about a Ford relay, a little overkill although they do work well.
I helped my garage landlord rewire his 41 Chevy, no relay problems here. It's a direct acting starter switch, you mash the pedal on the floor and it engages the starter and powers the motor. Simple as it gets. Makes you wonder why GM had to add the extra solenoid circuitry? Maybe so you'd have to replace the wiring and components every 20 years or so? Or add another relay.
 

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Originally posted by onovakind67:
Makes you wonder why GM had to add the extra solenoid circuitry?
So women could drive. ;) Plus, it WAS a cumbersome system. An extra pedal.
 
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