[yanniz]

Thanks everyone for the replies on the transmission. The new question is, how do I get my car to hook? What can I do with the rear end, front end?
'68 with soon to have 500+ Hp and 600 ft-lbs engine, and TH-400 transmission. Still has 10 bolt in it. Should I go to a 12 bolt?
Once again thanks for your invaluable help. It is greately appreciated.

 

[Michael]

Get slicks. You'll never hook without 'em. I know I have over 500hp and 500tq w/ a TH400, 12 bolt ,No-Hop bars, front and rear drag shocks etc.

 

[Wes Colby]

You run a STRONG risk of grenading that weak 10 bolt carrier or twisting off the pinion when you throw on a set of slicks and manage to plant all 600ftlbs. of torque to the pavement!

I certainly don't wish this to happen to you but I would guess you might get five hard launches like that before...."BANG!" Get the 12 bolt - expensive but good insurance.

 

[RRCHEVL69]

SSM lift bars, adjustable drag shocks and moroso trick springs all the way around, and 29 or 30/10.5 slicks. That's what I'm doing.

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RYAN REEVES
[email protected]
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/6987/ryanreeves/reeves_main.html

 

[DT69SS]

Try an air bag in right rear spring.
I have a similar setup to Michael. works well. There is a section here that addresses hooking up!

 

[Gene Chas]

Yanniz, like I said I haven't done this yet, I'm just getting my car on the road, but I have ordered some drag radials. Many friends have cautioned me about slicks ( I'm running a 4-sp). They WILL establish the weak link in your driveline be it your 10 bolt carrier, u-joints, whatever. SO be careful. I am fully expecting to stress something and/or break it. In fact, I'll probably put in a driveshaft loop just to be safe. I've seen 10 bolts work pretty well at the strip, they're not that weak, but you've got a monster combo working for 'ya and you may find that you need to upgrade to a 12 bolt. By the way, I believe stock 12 bolt are stronger than the 9". If you get all the aftermarket goddies for the 9", yes it's better. But stock 12's are very strong. Sounds like you already spent some decent greenbacks on your combo, you may want to plan an upgrade in the future when bucks allow. If you run stock radials you won't have a problem, the car's energy will be spent making heat and smoke off your tires. The other thing to consider is that even the BFG drag radials are EL-SUCKO on wet pavements. I won't be running my '67 in the rain if I can help it, but in the pacific northwest, you must consider that.

[This message has been edited by Gene Chas (edited 05-27-99).]

 

[Fred Aldrich]

Yanniz
Take a look at "Drag Racing Setup" at my web site.

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Fred Aldrich
Web Site: www.GeoCities.com/~69_chevelle



[This message has been edited by Fred Aldrich (edited 05-27-99).]

 

[406chevelle]

Worn out back springs and drag shock all around. 90/10 and 50/50 shocks.
I have SSM's and they work very well. The thing with lift bars is you need traction to begin with. Small street tires (235's) say won't twist the rear end (Thus putting the bars into action). The more the tires bit the more the bars work. I have drag radials. They are ok. I used to run Eagle ST's. When the ST's where bald they hooked as good as Bfg Drag Radials (Both 275/60). With the St's the more I heated them the more they stuck.

 

[406chevelle]

P.S. the drag radials seemed to work best around 20psi.

 

[prostreet]

Ive had my 71 to the track only twice but have similar setup around 600 horse. I started off with a twelve bolt and 4.56 gears. Foreget the drag radials they wont hook. I'm running a set of hoosier quick time drag tires, street legal but not recommend for the street. my 60 ft is 1.60 e/t 11.40 at 119 mhp. i have no hop. my buddy made a set of aluminum bushings with a nylon bearing around them. i've seen similiar sold in catalogs. this seems to really make the car hook. I have no special shocks or air bags. in the middle of putting a role cage in now cann't wait to get to the track and eat some fords.

[This message has been edited by prostreet (edited 05-27-99).]

 

[Michael]

A few more words...I had BFG Drags in my 227hp 5.0 Mustang. My opinion is that they are a waste of money. I NEVER got them to hook and I tried everything. And I do mean everything. Also, I have spent a ton of $ on my 12 bolt with Summers Bros. axles, ring girdle,c-clip eliminator etc. If I had to do it all over again I would have gone straight for the 9 inch. I only hope this 12 bolt won't break the tubes before I can sell the whole thing for a 9 inch

 

[Gene Chas]

I'll say it again, stock 12-bolts are stronger than stock 9".( If you don't believe me check HR. ) You don't need to *****alot of money away for aftermarket goodies for the 12-bolt. ( although c-clip elims are required if you're running below 12 or 11 secs). I wouldn't run a stock 9" with 550-600lbs.ft. If you're gonna start spending bucks for aftermarket parts and all the trick stuf you probably don't need, do it to a 9". There's more available and it's less expensive. You must use the nod iron carrier with the 9". So for that $350-400 expense, now you have a rear as strong as a stock 12. Don't knock the 12. But if you had to start from scratch, the 9" may be less expensive.

 

[Guest]

If you are building a rear (from scratch) for ultimate strength, The cost between 12 bolt and 9" are almost the same. I have $2400.00 in my 12 bolt, and a similarly prepped 9" Ford cost approx $3-400.00 more. I chose the 12 bolt because it is plenty strong (built properly)for even low 9 second (even 8 second)passes on slicks at 3000+ lbs. I also prefer to keep my GM car ALL GM.

I guess it comes down to personal preference I suppose.

Todd Geisler
Malibu Muscle
http://www.qis.net/~tgeisler

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