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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Just finished up a mild pump gas 496 for a customer in Ohio for his street truck project. Should be a really fun engine. Awesome power curve...660 @ 6000 (662hp @ 6100) and almost 660 tq @ 4400. Pulled clean to 6500. Thing should be a carnival ride if he can keep it hooked. :)
Gen6 four bolt block, 4.31 bore, Clevite bearings
Liberty 4.25 crank (VEREY nice crank)
Liberty 6.385 H beam rods (come in a Scat box :) )
Wiseco Pro Tru pistons with 1/16 1/16 3/16 rings
AFR 265 heads that I blueprinted...nothing more.
Port matched Air Gap and AED HO 950 carb
Sharp/ AFR rockers and Smith Brother's pushrods
Mild .600"/240ish hyd roller with Morel street series lifters
MSD HEI locked out @ 37*
We played with timing...did not like 38, was happy at 36-1/2 - 37. Carb needed some jet. Really good morning when you can show up at 8:00, do your business, and be off the dyno by noon. :)

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Block got the full treatment;

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Machine work done by Performance Automotive in Greeneville TN.

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
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Probably neve ruse another one of these Chinese pans again. Took most of a day to get it to fit, had to make some supports for the corners or there would be a guaranteed leak. Also note that with the stroker notches and using a one piece gasket, you need to put sealer around all the bolt holes or they will leak.

They took all the strength off this corner by removing the flange. I thought someone did this by hand for some unknown reason, but was told this is how they all come. :unsure:

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The solution was to make some support plates to spread the load out a little. Made one for both sides.;

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Went with Felpro MLS on this build...

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
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Working out the rocker geometry with the Sharp/AFR rockers I designed and finding out that on the AFR heads with a cam in the low .600" lift range, you're going to want to use the intake rockers on intake and exhaust. Here's the difference between the two;
I think the ex rocker (bottom line) would probably fall in that "center third" range, but the intake rocker (top line) was a safer bet.

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Here's the port mis-match between the AFR "Roval" and the Edelbrock oval port.

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Awesome work and always impressive attention to detail.

Did that oil pan have much baffling or a windage tray?

Water temp at 187F, that seems pretty high for most dyno runs. Not that it matters, but how much power would it see if it was ran at 160F?

What makes the Liberty crank a very nice piece?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Awesome work and always impressive attention to detail.

Did that oil pan have much baffling or a windage tray?

Water temp at 187F, that seems pretty high for most dyno runs. Not that it matters, but how much power would it see if it was ran at 160F?

What makes the Liberty crank a very nice piece?
Thanks!
The pans have a very simple scraper and integral screen. Minimal.
Water temp is more representative of real world. I could do a lot of things to "show" more power on the dyno but that's really not the intent. Intent is to get a real world idea of power and tq, to get a good baseline tune up; check timing, fuel curve, and make sure the engine is healthy and properly broken in.
The crank took about 50 grams on one end and about 65 grams on the other to balance and the journals measured within a tenth of each other form one end to the other. In contrast and comparison, I have a brand new Callies Compstar crank here that will need the rod journals ground .010 because they are .002" below small spec and out of round by .0003-.0004". :mad:
 

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1968 Malibu sport coupe, 489 ci. 590 hp 600 tq, RV T-400 Freakshow 3200 stall, 3.73 12 bolt posi
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I also used Your designed rocker arms on my Brodix 294 R port headed 489 and used int. rockers on all valves, centered excellent, very nice engine Scott and I'm sure the customer will be all smiles (y)
 

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A true craftsman at his work. Very nice. Thanks for the pics Scott. So if I'm reading you right, the gasket sealant had to be used even with a one piece oil pan gasket because of the crappy oil pan. Is that a Comp Cams 2 piece timing cover or a 3 piece? Looks just like the 3 piece one I bought but it's hard to tell in the pics.

Just curious: I know there has to be a reason for the yellow paint, (or grease pencil) marks you placed on the main cap studs, and on the rod cap bolt heads. But I am at a loss. Almost looks like the torque stripes that are placed on all the spindle nuts that are torqued at the helicopter manufacturing plant I work at.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
A true craftsman at his work. Very nice. Thanks for the pics Scott. So if I'm reading you right, the gasket sealant had to be used even with a one piece oil pan gasket because of the crappy oil pan. Is that a Comp Cams 2 piece timing cover or a 3 piece? Looks just like the 3 piece one I bought but it's hard to tell in the pics.

Just curious: I know there has to be a reason for the yellow paint, (or grease pencil) marks you placed on the main cap studs, and on the rod cap bolt heads. But I am at a loss. Almost looks like the torque stripes that are placed on all the spindle nuts that are torqued at the helicopter manufacturing plant I work at.
Thanks BIlly.
Yes, you read me right on the pan and gasket.
Front cover is the two piece. Customer provided and I HOPE it doesn't leak. :rolleyes:
The yellow paint is because I'm getting old and forgetful :ROFLMAO: and it tells me that I've torqued that fastener.
 

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662 hp and 660 torque with no crank trigger, no electric water pump, no vacuum pump, duel plan intake, smallish cubic inch, hydraulic roller, and pump gas - WOW! This would make a great street car engine. Only negative I can think of is 662 hp in a street car is total over kill. Very nice Scott.
 

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The yellow paint is because I'm getting old and forgetful :ROFLMAO: and it tells me that I've torqued that fastener.
Well I think you're being modest Scott,(which is a good thing) because it tells ME that you're a stickler for paying CLOSE attention to detail and that you do QUALITY work. Impressive! (y)(y)
 

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