[Chris27]

I have a B&M Pro stick shifter in my car that uses micro switches for the neutral safety and reverse lights:

B&M 80609 B&M Micro Switch for Pro Stick, Pro Bandit and Magnum Grip

Neutral Reverse Micro Switch APPLICATIONS: For use with 80701/80702/80706 Pro Stick, 80793/80794 Pro Bandit, 81040/81041 Magnum Grip, 81045/81046 Magnum Grip.

www.holley.com

The first set lasted about 15 years. I had to replace both switches about 2 years ago and now they've failed again. At least they seem to fail closed, so the car will start (in any gear mind you), but now the reverse lights are on constantly.

I'd rather not spend $15 per switch just to have them fail again. Has anyone run across a good quality micro switch that will last? Maybe a different way of wiring them? Currently (pun intended) the micro switches are in series with the stock console shift wiring harness. Basically cut the end off the harness that used to connect to the stock shifter switch and connected these wires to the micro switches.

 

[69SS454]

I have never had one fail but they do make everything cheaper than they used to. Mounting a different type of switch will be very difficult. Try a different brand switch.
Miniature Snap-Acting Switch, Plunger Actuator, 277V AC, Quick-Disconnect Terminals | McMaster-Carr

 

[hydro462]

I wouldn't run the starter solenoid control circuit through a micro switch. All you have to do is treat your car like a stick when starting. This also gives you the ability to move your car under starter power if you need to move it a few feet, like off railroad tracks.

 

[GTO44]

Probably over loading the switch. Those switches are really only meant for a couple amps. Sustained use of higher amperage will fry the contacts.

Id recommend using a relay for the starter saftey circuit and a relay for the reverse light circuit. Then the micro switches will just be low amp triggers and will last forever.

 

[69SS454]

I wouldn't run the starter solenoid control circuit through a micro switch. All you have to do is treat your car like a stick when starting. This also gives you the ability to move your car under starter power if you need to move it a few feet, like off railroad tracks.

That is trading a lot of safety for one unlikely event. Please don't suggest to bypass a neutral safety switch.

 

[oldcutlass]

You can buy those switches through Amazon for $2-5 a piece.

 

[Chris27]

I wouldn't run the starter solenoid control circuit through a micro switch. All you have to do is treat your car like a stick when starting. This also gives you the ability to move your car under starter power if you need to move it a few feet, like off railroad tracks.

Won't pass tech at the dragstrip like that.

 

[Chris27]

Probably over loading the switch. Those switches are really only meant for a couple amps. Sustained use of higher amperage will fry the contacts.

Id recommend using a relay for the starter saftey circuit and a relay for the reverse light circuit. Then the micro switches will just be low amp triggers and will last forever.

Relays are probably a good idea. Just frustrating that the original switches lasted 15 years and the replacements only lasted 2.

 

[mymalibubu72]

Originals where probably made by Cherry Electrical or Honeywell-Microswitch. Not in China.

 

[Chris27]

Originals where probably made by Cherry Electrical or Honeywell-Microswitch. Not in China.

My thoughts exactly, contacts made of Chinesium in the replacements.

 

[GTO44]

as the old saying goes “They dont make ‘em like they use to”

 

[zeke67]

Different type of answer here -- I've been running a Megashifter for about 25 years. First set of switches lasted 5 years. With the second set, I soldered capacitors across the switch terminals. Still running that second set of switches with no failures. The idea here is that arcing across the switch terminals is what causes them to fail. The capacitors take up the voltage that causes arcing. Relays aren't a bad idea, but that requires a place to tuck them away, a power source and so forth.

 

[Chris27]

Different type of answer here -- I've been running a Megashifter for about 25 years. First set of switches lasted 5 years. With the second set, I soldered capacitors across the switch terminals. Still running that second set of switches with no failures. The idea here is that arcing across the switch terminals is what causes them to fail. The capacitors take up the voltage that causes arcing. Relays aren't a bad idea, but that requires a place to tuck them away, a power source and so forth.

Interesting, what kind of capacitors did you use?

 

[zeke67]

Some tantalums I had laying around. Ceramics would work, although one rarely sees them.

 

[Blackhawk]

A relay at the starter for the purple solenoid wire would take 99% of the load away from the switches as well as the little 12 gauge wire powering your fusebox.

 

[Chris27]

A relay at the starter for the purple solenoid wire would take 99% of the load away from the switches as well as the little 12 gauge wire powering your fusebox.

I've already got the starter wired through a solenoid. Main battery cable is only live during cranking. I did this many years ago when I had heat soak issues with the stock starter. I've since switched to an aftermarket mini starter, but kept the wiring the same. Power for the fuse block comes from the horn relay.

 

[oldcutlass]

Are the micro switches to tight when they are actuated forcing the little button too deep into the switch?

 

[Blackhawk]

What about the wire to the starter solenoid itself? If that's stock you're running through 12 gauge wire from the horn relay to the solenoid as well as the ignition switch, neutral switch, and the fuse box connections.

 

[Chris27]

Are the micro switches to tight when they are actuated forcing the little button too deep into the switch?

The switches seem to be located fine. There is a bit of adjustment. When they did work, there didn't seem to be much pressure on the switch and if they were adjsuted too tight, the switches were closed all the time.

 

[Chris27]

What about the wire to the starter solenoid itself? If that's stock you're running through 12 gauge wire from the horn relay to the solenoid as well as the ignition switch, neutral switch, and the fuse box connections.

Full size battery cable from battery to solenoid, full size battery cable from solenoid to started. Stock wire that used to go down to the stock solenoid at the starter now goes to the remote solenoid. I'll have to look exactly how I wired the power to the fuse block, it's been a year or 20.