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Discussion Starter #1
O.K.- I thought I did it right but apparently not.On the MSD I ran the orange wire to the b+ on the cap, the black wire to the c- on the cap, and the grnd terminal in the middle of the cap is going to an engine bolt for engine grnd.The small red MSD wire is run to the interior and spliced into lrg Pink wire on IGN swith.Both MSD Large RED/BLK wires going direct to battery post.

I've also had the sm red wire going into the fuse box on the IGN terminal and had the same results.Engine wont turn off.Please help

I disconnected the vaccum advance and plugged the hose, set initial at 12 and the idle is not set very high currently.It will fire up immediately when I turn the key and give it a couple pumps on gas pedal.

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Joel
T/C#980 1968 SS396 CHEVELLE


If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you.....

[This message has been edited by speedster (edited 03-08-2002).]
 

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Consult your MSD manual...in some cases you will need to add a resistor to the altenator wire. Directions on how to do this is in the instruction sheets (or online, also).
The resistor comes included with the MSD box.
I had to do this to my Camaro...it works!!

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Bill Burke
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Looks like the proper connections from what I see in the instructions.
Look on page 8 of the MSD 6 instructions about adding the diode in the circuit. Think they provided one. This should stop engine run-on (not shutting off).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the 2nd opinion guys, I thought I did it right but I didn't buy it new so I dont have any manual or extra parts.I did download the instuctions off MSD's website but there's nothing mentiond about a diode on the wire diagram.I'll go back and check their site for it or give em a ring.Thanks!

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Joel
T/C#980 1968 SS396 CHEVELLE


If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you.....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I couldnt find any info on their site for the part or any instructions.I have a 2000 MSD catalog here and I was wondering if the resistor P/N was 8214 and how to wire it in.I would like to just go to Radio Shack and get one if I can so I can get it on the road and not wait for the mailman.

The 8214 is .8 ohm Ballast resistor

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Joel
T/C#980 1968 SS396 CHEVELLE


If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you.....
 

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Joel
It's there, just hiding. Click on www.msdignition.com

Go to INSTRUCTION DOWNLOAD
Click on that
Click on MSD 6 SERIES
Download that file. The wiring instruction for fixing the problem are on the page I mentioned above. The value of the diode is right next to the picture. You need to put it in the same way as the picture shows. Radio Shack has them.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanx again John....

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Joel
T/C#980 1968 SS396 CHEVELLE


If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you.....
 

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Joel-

Help me understand what you wrote in your original post....

When you say the orange wire is wired to the "b+ on the cap" and the black wire to the "c- on the cap" I assume you mean COIL? Next, I'm not sure what you mean by "the grnd terminal in the middle of the cap is going to an engine bolt for engine grnd". Not sure what wire you are referring to....

What kind if distributor are you using? If you follow the instructions on page 10 (points style distributor) or page 11 (MSD style distributor with magnetic pickup) you shouldn't have this problem with run-on. My guess would be incorrect wiring...

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Gregg Haskin
72 Chevelle SS
ZZ502 Crated RAT
Muncie M-20 4 speed
TEAM CHEVELLE #726 ACES #4486
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“What the heck are all these extra nuts & bolts for?”

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Gregg
I don't have the download handy. Left it at work. He has the factory style HEI hook-up shown back further in the instructions. Maybe around page 16?? I looked and the connections appeared correct.
Run on still can be caused by the brown wire feeding the ignition switch (provided we are talking about an idiot light car).
 

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Yup! I researched this for a while, and bumped into the HEI wiring diagram on pg.16. Now the word "cap" makes sense! Looks like it is wired correctly. Looks like diode time. Sorry if I confused ya'll.

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Gregg Haskin
72 Chevelle SS
ZZ502 Crated RAT
Muncie M-20 4 speed
TEAM CHEVELLE #726 ACES #4486
"PROUD TO BE AN AMERICAN!"
“What the heck are all these extra nuts & bolts for?”

My 72 Chevelle SS Restoration Website: www.wcvt.com/~ghaskin
 

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My car did that...I ran a SPST toggle switch to the red wire that feeds power from the pink ignition lead, and it also doubles as a kill switch.

So, you flip the ignition off, then rea...waaait...i'm not telling you where my switch is.


Flip the switch off, and the car dies, and will not start until the switch is turned back on. I've killed a couple batteries just cranking the damn thing, after forgetting that the switch was off


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Aaron "The Hammer" Robertson.
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Actually Aaron, that won't correct the MSD run-on problem. The pink ignition line is tied to the brown idiot line. The MSD box takes so little current that the brown line keeps feeding the box. However, your idea would work if the switch was installed on the switched red MSD wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yes John, your correct- this is an idiot light car.I guess that may be why I couldn't find the answer searching through the forums.

On another note- I have a remote trigger that allows you to bump the starter over while out of the car to help get to TDC.When I connected it to the posts down on the starter,I press the trigger and nothing happens.But I can hear a "clicking" from the distributor.The starter wont even crank over.

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Joel
T/C#980 1968 SS396 CHEVELLE


If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you.....
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by speedster:
On another note- I have a remote trigger that allows you to bump the starter over while out of the car to help get to TDC.When I connected it to the posts down on the starter,I press the trigger and nothing happens.But I can hear a "clicking" from the distributor.The starter wont even crank over.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Which posts are you tying it to? One lead should go to the S terminal. The one with the purple wire. The other lead goes to 12 volts.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
John- as per the instructions I hook one lead to the small posts with the purple wire and the other lead to the post with the battery cable on it.Turn the key to on position--------nada!

BTW- called MSD about 100v/1a diode because I couldn't find one at Radio Shack w/those specs.MSD now recommends you use a 400V/1A
diode if you need to stop engine run-on.Just FYI for anyone w/same problem.......

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Joel
T/C#980 1968 SS396 CHEVELLE


If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you.....
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by speedster:
John- as per the instructions I hook one lead to the small posts with the purple wire and the other lead to the post with the battery cable on it.Turn the key to on position--------nada!

BTW- called MSD about 100v/1a diode because I couldn't find one at Radio Shack w/those specs.MSD now recommends you use a 400V/1A
diode if you need to stop engine run-on.Just FYI for anyone w/same problem.......

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Sounds like your remote trigger is having a problem. That's the same two places some guys lay a screwdriver on.
Thanks for the update from MSD. I'm no expert. Only read what they write. It's a little overkill but, I guess they think the bigger it is the better.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
John- I also hooked up the trigger the same way on a Buick Riviera and had no luck.But on my Ford Ranger that uses a regulator on the fender it works fine.
Oh well.

Yeah I hear Ya, after downloading their instructions and calling all the Radio Shacks within 1000miles, I called them to ask if a 200v/1a would be O.K.That's when he said use the 400 instead.
Big difference eh? go figure...
 
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