[70Chevelle 350]

OK, from earlier post, I have discovered that I need a new master cylinder on my "non-power" drum brake system. Never done this before. Can someone out there tell me how this is done. I know the system has to be bled after the new one is installed. Thanks in advance!

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D Smith
ALABAMA
1970 Chevelle 350

 

[DG]

Remove old m/c. Use a line wrench on the brake lines connecting to the m/c. Be careful not to twist the line with the nut. You need to bench bleed the new m/c. By clamping in vise (clamp to bolt ears), buy a cheap plastic bleed kit from the "help" section, fill the m/c, use a screw driver to push the plunger about about 3/4-to-1 inch to remove air from m/c. When you do not see any air bubbles, mount it on the car.

You'll have to bleed the brakes from the wheels. Start with farthest away first working to front left.

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DG
Springfield, Ohio
70 Chevelle Malibu

www.wright.edu/~adams.6/chevy.htm
TEAM Chevelle Member #0086
Genx member (Founder 4 Ohio)

 

[mr409]

If you bench bleed properly, you won't have to bleed at the wheels. Or at least shouldn't have to. Don't leave the lines disconnected too long. It's best to have the new one ready when you remove the old one.

Good luck,



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Bob (Pa.)

1963 Impala 283
1966 Chevelle SS 409
1969 Malibu 307
1972 Malibu 307
1969 Chevy stepside 350

Bob's 409 Chevy Page

silverstone.fortunecity.com/tvr/246/bob_s_409_chevy_page_index.html

 

[Sid Coleman]

Others check me on this: Since you're replacing the master cyl-I'd consider flushing the lines as well. I did this with my 71-put rubber hoses from the bleeder to a container, then just let gravity do it's best. Gotta keep pouring new fluid in the master cylinder, however now I know I have all new-not moisture contaminated fluid in the lines. Figured with that flow, there'd be no air in the lines, pedal felt really firm when done.

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71 Ragtop, under construction and over budget!
MCC #347, TC (Gold) #174