[tas]

I have a 67 Chevelle. Does anyone know what to use and how to hook up some type of warning buzzer for: lights on (parking or headlamps), key off, door open.

Thanks,

tas

 

[Coppertop]

Go into Radio Shack and buy this:

Piezo sounder

Then go into a respectable auto parts store and buy a SPDT automotive relay. That's SINGLE POLE DOUBLE THROW! The SPST (the single pole, single throw) like radio shack sells will not work!

Here's the standard base on an automotive relay:

Now take the red (+) from the sounder and connect it to the LPS (lamps) terminal in the fuse box. Take the black (-) from the sounder and connect it to the "87A" terminal of the relay.

Then run a piece of wire from the driver's side door switch wire (the wire that feeds the door jamb switch, should be white in color) and splice into it. The other end of this need run will connect to the relay's #30 terminal.

Connect the relay's #85 to a good metal ground.

Connect the relay's #86 to to a 1 amp fast blow fuse. The other end of the fuse will connect the IGN (Ignition hot) terminal in the fuse box.

Although you can run a wire directly from the #86 to the IGN terminal, I recommend the fuse in-line in case something bad happens with your wiring and you would risk blowing the IGN fuse, thus leaving your car without a working ignition until the fuse box fuse was replaced.

This is how it works;

When the engine is running, the relay will be energized. The normally closed contacts (30 & 87A) will be open so there is no current path allowed. You may open any door with the lights on and the buzzer will NOT sound.

When the engine is off, the relay will not receive power, The normally closed contacts will closed (thus a connection from 87A and 30). IF the lights are on, the (+) side of the sounder will see voltage. If you open any door, a ground is provided by the door jamb switch circuit, this ground path provides the (-) connection to the sounder thru the relay contacts. Turn off the lights and the sounder will silence.

Although the LPS terminal provides a variable voltage (it "dims" with the lamps based on how you turn the headlamp switch), the Radio Shack 273-060A provides a good output even at reduced voltages.

Good luck and have fun.

 

[tas]

Coppertop,

You couldn't have described how to do this any better.

I will pick up parts tomorrow!

Thanks,

tas

 

[Elree Colby]

Never mind Coppertop has it covered

 

[LeoP]

Your Local Chevy store has a kit with instructions on how to install it.

 

[tas]

Coppertop,

I have another question for you. I visited the local Radio Shack store and bought the buzzer, but they also sell a "chime" number 273-081. My wife is in favor of the chime, but it operates on a three wire system. One wire hot, one ground and a third wire that is blue that it looks like it needs some type of interrupter? The diagram on it showed the blue wire broken at an angle like a door partially opened. I hope that makes sense. Any ideas on how I can use the chime.

I also picked up the relay at the local Carquest store.

Thanks, tas

 

[tas]

Oops.. wrong radio shack part number for the chme. It's a 273-071

 

[Junkyard Dawg]

3M makes one that connects to your fuses in the fuse block. I have one that I purchesed at Wal-mart. Works great!

 

[Agent_X]

Originally posted by tas:
Coppertop,

I have another question for you. I visited the local Radio Shack store and bought the buzzer, but they also sell a "chime" number 273-081. My wife is in favor of the chime, but it operates on a three wire system. One wire hot, one ground and a third wire that is blue that it looks like it needs some type of interrupter? The diagram on it showed the blue wire broken at an angle like a door partially opened. I hope that makes sense. Any ideas on how I can use the chime.

I also picked up the relay at the local Carquest store.

Thanks, tas

The blue wire is the "switch" (i.e. door pin)

Red - 12v
Blk - gnd
blue - whatever you want to make "chime", its looking for a neg input to make it "chime", like your door pin switch

you can verify by hooking up to your car bat and touch the blue to a ground and it should chime.

 

[Elree Colby]

Something like this will work. I would use a 68+ driver side jamb switch so that the light alarm and courtesy light circuits are separate. It's a good idea to use a fuse on the IGN connection, as suggested by Coppertop, and you can attach the chime black wire to a permanent ground as opposed to connection to the jamb switch.

 

[tas]

Wow... It's amazing how simple this was. I spent less than $15. I thought the hard part was going to be finding the white wire from the door switch, it was just up under the edge of the dash, actually I pushed in the door switch and saw the wire move.

I highly recommend this to everyone. The reason I did this was, I installed a set of aftermarket lights that include a smaller daytime running bulb that is wired into the parking lights. So I usually run with the parking lights on to burn the new daytime lights, but feared leaving the lights on when I exit the car.

Not anymore! If the car is off, lights on and the door is opened. BUZZ I get a warning.

Thanks again to all that helped!

tas