m21 strength?
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1,494 Posts
For a little while...especially with a little traction. They aren't that hard to fix WHEN you blow it up. You can upgrade it to a M-22 for the cost of a $600 gear set as long as you have a case with the 1 inch pin.
Dave
Dave
AGREED!!!
The M21 will survive just fine on the street, but at the track on slicks you will eventually find its death. however, the right clutch will let it last a "fairly" long life even at the track. the "right clutch" is the key.
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4,958 Posts
Sold !!!! Going M22W from Auto gear in place of the T400, already have all GM parts, just need tranny :hurray:
what do you mean by the "right clutch"? I have a centerforce dual something. So the m22 is a better choice for strength with slicks? How is the richmond 4 speed? I would rather go with a stick since I find them more enjoyable to drive. Thanks guys.
G
Guest
·The M22 is plenty stout and will stand up to a lot of abuse, HP and torque. Unless you can get your hands on a real BW ST-10, the 904 case version, and stay away from the steep low gear versions. That is where the weakness lies in the trans, like the early M-20 muncie.
There is a limited amount of space inside the case and to make a gear set with a deep first gear you make some adjustments.
The AutoGear super case M22 and M22W both work super. There are other choices like the close ratio wide box that AG makes.
The real deal is to use new gears, not 40 year old stock gears or that less than stellar stock case. Even the trailer queen, numbers cars should think about a driver trans, keep that numbers deal in the shop. I've seen these babies shread the gears under normal driving and blow up that stock case on the inside, then how much is that numbers trans worth????
what I mean by "right clutch " is:
if you intend on doing a bunch of dragstrip thrashing(even just for fun) and only limited street use, a clutch such as a Ram "single iron", or a Mcleod soft-lock, will allow the 4-speed to survive for alot longer than a conventional clutch (EDIT: not to mension drop 60ft times and ET considerably!)
Conventional clutches use high clamp pressure and are very hard on driveline parts when used for drag racing.
The clutches I mension above use VERY low static pressure and high friction disks that are designed to slip slightly on the launch. You can street drive theese clutches as they have light pedal pressure,but it requires that you crawl under the car and adjust the static pressure up after your day of racing is over. they will chatter a bit more than a regular clutch too, so you have to make a choice of 100% convenience and no-chatter in the regular clutch, or a bit of LEARNING/TUNING/MAINTANANCE with the "soft" clutch, so you can have a truely effective machine when at the track and get home without carrying the peices.
Again, theese clutches are not for everyone, but if your willing to do a bit of work, you can have a 4-speed car that doesn't break every time you go to the track.
here is a link to the United Manual Transmission Racer's forums, LOTS of good info on stick shift racing/clutches etc :
http://www.stangbangerz.com/umtr/yabb/YaBB.pl
What's a close ratio wide box? I've seen you refer to this before, the first time I thought it was a typo....
G
Guest
·No typo, the M21WWhat's a close ratio wide box? I've seen you refer to this before, the first time I thought it was a typo....
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Don't get really upset when it breaks. If your hooks it will break just about anything that resembles a normal 4spd. I tried and went to a 400 because I got real tired of breaking things.
If you would have tryed "the right" clutch first, you may still be happily shifting gears:yes:
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