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Discussion Starter · #242 ·
This is what worked flawlessly for me when I was putting an LM7 truck motor with 4L60E into my 69 Chevelle 1 year ago.

Body Bushings Energy Suspension

LS swap plates from LSX innovations.com I mounted my motor in the middle position. Part # ST-11 $44.99

Stock Motor Mounts Energy Suspension from Summit Part # ENS-3-1120R $83.99

Holley 302-2 $349.99

Dirty Dingo small PS Pump Pully $29.99 I think

G Force Crossmember from Summit Part #SUM-770308 $259.97

Flowmaster Headers Part # 814116 $747.48

Flowmaster Header back exhaust system Part #FLW817409 $542.99


My entire build was built around the Holley 302-2 Pan. That was a game changer for the A Body guys. I waited about 5 month for it due to the popularity and demand. I followed toddoky on a few forums explaining the pan and how it was built for us A Body guys. I am looking forward to checking out the Holley Swap Kit when it is unveiled, no doubt in my mind it will be another game changer.

The pics below show how everything ended up clearance wise. The lowest part of my drivetrain is the transmission pan. I lifted the rear of the transmission up until it hit the floor and then set my Energy Suspension mount with shims where the rear of the transmission is approx 1/4 in from the floor. The headers tucked up to the floor with less than 1/4 in clearance and continued thru the G force crossmember with almost the same clearance. I had my driveshaft shortened 1 1/2 in, re-balanced and upgraded the u-joints. I did not check my driveline angles before my first test-drive but there is no vibrations and nothing hits with my setup after almost 800 trouble free miles.

Thanks for the write up! What frame mounts did you use?
 

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Discussion Starter · #244 ·

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That's great, I'm curious to see how the headers work out with swap plates. Remember that the Hooker brackets will place the front of the engine lower in the frame than swap plates will, so if you run into difficulties achieving desirable U-joint working angles, they are an option for you to use over the swap plates.

Still holding out for theses brackets, any idea on how much longer? Do you have a part number on the headers? Thanks.
 

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I'm on vacation this week, so I won't be able to check on the status of the brackets until next week...the headers are up and listed on the Holley website.
Happy vacation! When you get back, could you post a link or part numbers for the products you are talking about here? I'm having a hard time navigating the holley site trying to identify the parts you're discussing here. Thanks!
 

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Is it better to use Dirty Dingo Slider mount or the Dirty Dingo Double-D mount? Since the Slider mount has two plates it says it sets the engine 1/4" higher up than using just the Double-D single 3/8" plate mount. Anyone have any knowledge on using both? Is that 1/4" needed for the tie-rod clearance?
This is for a 65' Chevelle and Holley 302-2 pan.

http://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=359_363&products_id=1366

http://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=359_360&products_id=1372
 

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Is it better to use Dirty Dingo Slider mount or the Dirty Dingo Double-D mount? Since the Slider mount has two plates it says it sets the engine 1/4" higher up than using just the Double-D single 3/8" plate mount. Anyone have any knowledge on using both? Is that 1/4" needed for the tie-rod clearance?
This is for a 65' Chevelle and Holley 302-2 pan.

http://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=359_363&products_id=1366

http://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=359_360&products_id=1372
The 302-2 pan will clear without raising it up.
 

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So you are saying to use the Double-D mount and not the Slider mount?

Anyone else use the Dingo Double-D mount with success?
I used a standard 1" setback mounts and the pan fits like factory on my 67. The 68-72 should have more room than the early cars.
 

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Great thread guys! looks like the 302-2 pan is for us-my son is building a 64 wagon 6.0 with 4L80 trans I see no mention of this trans in the whole thread :(
 

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My 4L60 is extremely tight but I did not need to modify the floor. The 4L80 will definitely need some floor surgery.
 

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I'm still in the build phase but have mounted the motor a few times.
Here is my set-up so far that has worked.

Originally 1971 Malibu 307 w/PG
Then
350 w/200R4
Now
6.0 LQ4 w/200R4
________________________
-Holley 302.2 Oil pan ( $350)
-Stokers LS Adjustable Engine Adapters ($85 see article link)
-Stock 307 frame perch with non-interlocking 350 SBC Mounts Anchor 2142 or NAPA 602-1054 ($5each)
-Steel 3/8 bolt spacers 1/2 tall between LS adapter plate and SBC mount (Sears hardware $2x6 P/N 58595-D)
-1995 Camaro 5.5in PS Pully P/N 14100597 ($5 Junkyard)
-1998-02 Camaro Full long tube headers (no name Cheap on Ebay $145)

Notes:
Never moved the 200R4 from where it was mounted to the 350.
Easily Clears the steering box and the Tie-rods.
Can probably get away with 3/8in tall spacers.
Pass side header fits like it was made for a chevelle, Driver side fits and clears steering but with a 40'degree kick out at the bottom collectors.

__________________________________________
Tonight I put in Energy Suspension "wide and fat" SBC engine mounts since I don't want to use the old style rubber block mounts that can just rip off.
-(P/N 3.1114G $38 each)
-Also used Steel 3/8 bolt spacers 1/4in Spacer (Sears hardware $2x6 P/N 58593-b)

Notes:
Clears the steering box and the Tie-rods.

Stoker's Hot Rod Factory LS Engine Transplants - Chevy High Performance

Smaller PS pulley easily clears the Steering box


Clears Tie-rods


Excellent Fit of Pass side header


Kick-out of Driver side Header


SBC mounts with 1/2'in spacer & Stokers LS plates


ES poly mounts with 1/4'in spacer and Stokers LS plates


 
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