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Interested in seeing how they fit, look, may be an option for my swap.
This is what worked flawlessly for me when I was putting an LM7 truck motor with 4L60E into my 69 Chevelle 1 year ago.
Body Bushings Energy Suspension
LS swap plates from LSX innovations.com I mounted my motor in the middle position. Part # ST-11 $44.99
Stock Motor Mounts Energy Suspension from Summit Part # ENS-3-1120R $83.99
Holley 302-2 $349.99
Dirty Dingo small PS Pump Pully $29.99 I think
G Force Crossmember from Summit Part #SUM-770308 $259.97
Flowmaster Headers Part # 814116 $747.48
Flowmaster Header back exhaust system Part #FLW817409 $542.99
My entire build was built around the Holley 302-2 Pan. That was a game changer for the A Body guys. I waited about 5 month for it due to the popularity and demand. I followed toddoky on a few forums explaining the pan and how it was built for us A Body guys. I am looking forward to checking out the Holley Swap Kit when it is unveiled, no doubt in my mind it will be another game changer.
The pics below show how everything ended up clearance wise. The lowest part of my drivetrain is the transmission pan. I lifted the rear of the transmission up until it hit the floor and then set my Energy Suspension mount with shims where the rear of the transmission is approx 1/4 in from the floor. The headers tucked up to the floor with less than 1/4 in clearance and continued thru the G force crossmember with almost the same clearance. I had my driveshaft shortened 1 1/2 in, re-balanced and upgraded the u-joints. I did not check my driveline angles before my first test-drive but there is no vibrations and nothing hits with my setup after almost 800 trouble free miles.
Stock 307 frame mounts.Thanks for the write up! What frame mounts did you use?
Cool! Added to the database. Thanks for sharing your info.Stock 307 frame mounts.
Rob
That's great, I'm curious to see how the headers work out with swap plates. Remember that the Hooker brackets will place the front of the engine lower in the frame than swap plates will, so if you run into difficulties achieving desirable U-joint working angles, they are an option for you to use over the swap plates.
I'm on vacation this week, so I won't be able to check on the status of the brackets until next week...the headers are up and listed on the Holley website.Still holding out for theses brackets, any idea on how much longer? Do you have a part number on the headers? Thanks.
Thanks for the heads up.Just popped the cork on the Holley 302-2 pan, for anyone intrested $323 and free shipping through Amazon
Happy vacation! When you get back, could you post a link or part numbers for the products you are talking about here? I'm having a hard time navigating the holley site trying to identify the parts you're discussing here. Thanks!I'm on vacation this week, so I won't be able to check on the status of the brackets until next week...the headers are up and listed on the Holley website.
The 302-2 pan will clear without raising it up.Is it better to use Dirty Dingo Slider mount or the Dirty Dingo Double-D mount? Since the Slider mount has two plates it says it sets the engine 1/4" higher up than using just the Double-D single 3/8" plate mount. Anyone have any knowledge on using both? Is that 1/4" needed for the tie-rod clearance?
This is for a 65' Chevelle and Holley 302-2 pan.
http://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=359_363&products_id=1366
http://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=359_360&products_id=1372
I used a standard 1" setback mounts and the pan fits like factory on my 67. The 68-72 should have more room than the early cars.So you are saying to use the Double-D mount and not the Slider mount?
Anyone else use the Dingo Double-D mount with success?