Team Chevelle banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part JULY's Ride of the Month Challenge!
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
723 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's clear that I'll have to lower the lid at the rear. The rubber stopper is fixed, so what do I do to adjust it?

Also, how do you get the rubber stopper out?

I'm talking about the rubber stopper on the deck lid at the rear corner.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,396 Posts
I've never had an luck removing the bumpers to reuse them as normally the nipple breaks off.

I would make sure the latch is not keeping the lid up on the back edge and if it's not then is it possible the wrong bumpers are installed and too thick ?. I know on some replacements I bought, they were too thick and had make them thinner and just glued them in place until I got the right ones.

Does the trunk opening possibly have new weatherstrip in the channel and is it installed right ?.

Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
723 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've never had an luck removing the bumpers to reuse them as normally the nipple breaks off.

I would make sure the latch is not keeping the lid up on the back edge and if it's not then is it possible the wrong bumpers are installed and too thick ?. I know on some replacements I bought, they were too thick and had make them thinner and just glued them in place until I got the right ones.

Does the trunk opening possibly have new weatherstrip in the channel and is it installed right ?.

Jim
Well the car is being painted right now, I've been test fitting parts. The whole lock system has been out for a good while and I just painted the inside and underside of the deck lid. I found a broken mount bolt, replaced it and noticed the lid doesn't lay even unless there's a pull on it from the lock.

On one side I have no bumper, the other side does. I was thinking there must be some way to line these up, but I just can't see it.

is this really just a "one size fits all" ?

The hood has an adjustment, why wouldn't the truck?

I guess I can shave it down with a sander, but that seem kinda cheesey.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,396 Posts
Well the car is being painted right now, I've been test fitting parts. The whole lock system has been out for a good while and I just painted the inside and underside of the deck lid. I found a broken mount bolt, replaced it and noticed the lid doesn't lay even unless there's a pull on it from the lock.

On one side I have no bumper, the other side does. I was thinking there must be some way to line these up, but I just can't see it.

is this really just a "one size fits all" ?

The hood has an adjustment, why wouldn't the truck?

I guess I can shave it down with a sander, but that seem kinda cheesey.
I bought what I thought were correct restoration trunk lid bumpers but they were incorrect. Chances are they sell the right ones for you car but you need to get some and try them or find someone that has the same car as yours to find out what they bought and how they worked. I think the reason they are not adjustable is they are in an area that needs to be sealed and we are working with old idea's. I've seen a lot of newer cars that the rubber bumpers unthread out of holes on the underside of trunk lids and that would be ideal but it's kinda late if yours is already painted.

At 1:32 in the below video of mine, you can see how I cut the replacements on the top to match the thickness of the originals I had.


I put the new ones into a socket to help guide the razor blade to help maintain a square and even cut.



With some careful work with a razor blade I tried to keep the nipple on the modified ones but I ended up using a little glue on the topside to hold them in place and mostly used the nipple to center it on the existing hole in the trunk lid.

What I've done before when I installed hood locks is to take some stiff to soft clay and use it as a way to measure a thickness or a gap. I choose the spot I want to measure and then put a little plastic down on the surface in that area and wad up a ball of clay that is a little thicker than I think the spot is and then cover the topside of the clay with some more thin plastic and then close the opening (trunk lid in your case) to the point where things need to be lined up as far as panel to panel edge levels and then open the trunk and the clay should then be compressed measuring the gap or thickness available in that area.
I then take a sharp knife and cut this smashed down ball of clay from the top to the bottom and then separate the two halves and now I have an easy edge to measure. If you use a thin enough piece of plastic on the topside of the clay ball, you may also see a witness mark as to where the hole is at for the bumper so you know exactly what the thickness needs to be in that exact spot.


As far as trunk lid fitment with either a new trunk lid, or some other new metal or parts in that area, you may have to hammer down or up the spots that the bumpers hit against as well as making sure the weatherstrip channel is also at the right height. On a car I've been working on, I climbed into the trunk and closed it and then with a gauge, measured the gap between the weatherstrip channel and the underside of the trunk lid and tweaked it where it needed tweaking. Some spots I had to raise, and some spots I had to lower. I then also trial fitted the weatherstrip in the channel without glue and got an idea if the lid would close properly and latch down. I then also placed a bill on top of the weatherstrip and closed the trunk lid and got an idea as to how hard or easy it was to slide the bill out. If an area made it hard to slide the bill out, the weatherstrip was too tight and this area of the channel got lowered and if I felt nothing pulling the bill out then the weatherstrip was not even in contact with the underside of the trunk lid.





Jim
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
629 Posts
I'll try this again, first time I posted it, it seems to have disappeared...

In this subforum at the top there is a sticky for how to adjust it...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
723 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'll try this again, first time I posted it, it seems to have disappeared...

In this subforum at the top there is a sticky for how to adjust it...
I just looked at that, it's a great post. However, mine is being blocked by the rubber stoppers at the rear corners of the deck lid. I can push down on the lid and it doesn't go down far enough. There's no insulation or lock, just a deck lid on a bare body as I'm prepping for paint.

I assume the rubber stopper is not where the lid sits, I would assume it 'floats' between the lock and the insulation and the stopper only touches when the lid is pressed harder.

I'm wondering if that's the case because how else would GM line up all the deck lids? The only way they could is to have the lock actually determine the height of the lid. When you turn the key, the truck should pop up as the insulation acts like a spring.

So it's an issue of getting/making the correct height and why is mine so far off?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
723 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I bought what I thought were correct restoration trunk lid bumpers but they were incorrect. Chances are they sell the right ones for you car but you need to get some and try them or find someone that has the same car as yours to find out what they bought and how they worked. I think the reason they are not adjustable is they are in an area that needs to be sealed and we are working with old idea's. I've seen a lot of newer cars that the rubber bumpers unthread out of holes on the underside of trunk lids and that would be ideal but it's kinda late if yours is already painted.

At 1:32 in the below video of mine, you can see how I cut the replacements on the top to match the thickness of the originals I had.

1968 Chevrolet Chevy 2 Nova Trunk Lid Bumper Replacement - YouTube

I put the new ones into a socket to help guide the razor blade to help maintain a square and even cut.



With some careful work with a razor blade I tried to keep the nipple on the modified ones but I ended up using a little glue on the topside to hold them in place and mostly used the nipple to center it on the existing hole in the trunk lid.

What I've done before when I installed hood locks is to take some stiff to soft clay and use it as a way to measure a thickness or a gap. I choose the spot I want to measure and then put a little plastic down on the surface in that area and wad up a ball of clay that is a little thicker than I think the spot is and then cover the topside of the clay with some more thin plastic and then close the opening (trunk lid in your case) to the point where things need to be lined up as far as panel to panel edge levels and then open the trunk and the clay should then be compressed measuring the gap or thickness available in that area.
I then take a sharp knife and cut this smashed down ball of clay from the top to the bottom and then separate the two halves and now I have an easy edge to measure. If you use a thin enough piece of plastic on the topside of the clay ball, you may also see a witness mark as to where the hole is at for the bumper so you know exactly what the thickness needs to be in that exact spot.


As far as trunk lid fitment with either a new trunk lid, or some other new metal or parts in that area, you may have to hammer down or up the spots that the bumpers hit against as well as making sure the weatherstrip channel is also at the right height. On a car I've been working on, I climbed into the trunk and closed it and then with a gauge, measured the gap between the weatherstrip channel and the underside of the trunk lid and tweaked it where it needed tweaking. Some spots I had to raise, and some spots I had to lower. I then also trial fitted the weatherstrip in the channel without glue and got an idea if the lid would close properly and latch down. I then also placed a bill on top of the weatherstrip and closed the trunk lid and got an idea as to how hard or easy it was to slide the bill out. If an area made it hard to slide the bill out, the weatherstrip was too tight and this area of the channel got lowered and if I felt nothing pulling the bill out then the weatherstrip was not even in contact with the underside of the trunk lid.





Jim
It's really sad that they go thru the process of making those bumpers and they are so far off. I still think we should all boycott these companies until they actually fix these things.

Their fenders, doors, chrome quality, etc, just suck.

I bought the nut that goes around the ign key on a 66 and it had the wrong number of wrench groves. I bought after market turn signal arm for a 66 mustang and it rusted in 1 year.

If we boycott them and drive them out of business, maybe they'll pay attention to these problems.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top