[derekf3]

I've manually searched through several forums but haven't really seen anything that relevant.

This weekend, the pass side rear lower control arm mount tore free on my '69 EC.

It's the second time it's happened. I've only done roughly 15k miles since last time - but the shop that did that one is over 1k miles away and I can't really take it back as a warranty-type thing.

I'm worried that I've caused enough metal fatigue that any repair will fail even quicker.

Given that my EC isn't anything special, how would y'all go from here? Weld and hope? Look for a replacement frame? or part it out?

If it helps any, pictures at http://www.derekf.com/IMAGES/frame1.jpg and http://www.derekf.com/IMAGES/frame2.jpg

Thanks,
Derek

 

[chevl71]

Derek

I'd weld and hope AND look for a new frame. I wouldn't take it out much after welding it again, check it frequently.

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[70ss402Conv]

Holy [email protected]! That is nasty. I think you need to see a master welder and have him graft in a new boxed section of frame and a custom mount. Perhaps with a stainless steel welding rod. I'm no expert but my dad knows some welders at Delta Airlines who can do amazing things, these guys can weld anything. I think it can be fixed.

 

[BB_Mike]

I am not alone! I am not alone!
http://www.auburnextremeracing.com/drivers/mike/frame/index.htm

Had the same thing happen to me. And it was my daily driver.

I tore down that dies suspension and was able to weld the bracket back up in there. Not just any garage welder. I had a local shop get the big-dog on it. I did all the grunt and prep work. The 70 year old shop guy (who's seen more welding hours than I've seen hours) did the welding. I told him, "Make this side weigh 2 pounds more than the other if you get my drift"

Been going about 2 thousand miles since then. Plenty of brake checks also. I believe trying to make the first turn after a 105mph 1/4 mile track sprint is what caused the quick breakage.

-I'll check back in to see what else I can add to the matter. NO, I did not have a frame shop straighten it. The "puzzle piece" nature of it made for a real close to factory placement.

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71' 3880# with me. Big Block 402, Merlin oval heads, 10.2:1CR, TH400, 3.73 posi,
1/8th: 8.2 @ 86.8mph
1/4: 12.7 @ 107.8mph (1.93 sixty foot)
--have pulled a 1.85 sixty foot (before street tires or course).
Picture of me roasting the tires and other guy stuff
Video of me staging (smoke of course)



[This message has been edited by BB_Mike (edited 09-17-2001).]

 

[derekf3]

Thanks for the quick replies, y'all.

I think the answer may be somewhere in between... since I just finished completely going through this car 18 months ago or so, I really don't want to roll a new frame under it... but since I've already had this torn mount repaired by a frame shop once, I wouldn't trust the repair again (this is my daily driver as well, and I really haven't beat on it much).. so I think I'm going to get a different frame shop to weld this, and either resign myself to not using my EC as normal transportation, or find myself a 69 EC or Chevelle to move all the new/good stuff over to as soon as money allows.

I think the pictures don't really do the damage justice, when I look at it it seems to scream to me "metal fatigue!" and I don't know that I'd trust it the way I've trusted this car over the last half-million miles.

BB_Mike, I am glad to hear that I'm not alone and it's entirely possible that mine was welded by an idiot last time, but I'd watch yours real carefully.. mine looked fine a week ago when I got down there and greased the tie rods again.

Thanks again, y'all. I'll let you know what happens.

Derek

 

[RC 70]

When I bought my car the rear lower control mount on the passenger side had been welded on and was a hack job so here's what I did.

Found a donor frame and cut out a piece with the control arm mount in place, then took it to a race shop here and doing the grunt work myself cut a section out of the old frame and grafted in the new. Had them do the mig weld and made sure it was lined up correctly by measuring and inserting a steel rod through the front mount and then through the back mount. Came out sweet and so far appears to be holding fine.

 

[chev-hell]

hey, try David Wolfe at www.wolferacecraft.com
he's working on mustangs now but is a GM guy thru and thru. i grew up next door and when we were in 5th grade we took a 10-speed and put a motorcycle front end on it, and he FABRICATED a mono-shock for the rear.... YES AT 11 YEARS OLD!!!!!! he's a genius, and builds pro-stock sub-frames right out of highschool. he's in arlington and if it can be welded he can do it

been a few years since i've seen him, i think i'll drop him a line too

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