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Be careful lowering the car. I lowered my 67 and hooks up great. The price being I had to buy a CV Driveshaft for $1,000 because the rear end pinion ended up higher than the transmission.
 

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1970 Chevelle ss turbocharged 427 4 speed sled from hell
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Discussion Starter #22
I am also more in favor of lowering the rear of the lower control arms and raising the rear of the upper ones. This is what I've always read about which gives the best results to hook the car at the track.
Also, I've read the article which "pannetron" posted and I think that what matters the most is (correct me if I'm wrong) to have the "instant center" point as much to the rear as possible.

Claude.
This is also what I’ve read however it’s clear these cars can chassis as Georgia69 showed. I’m not saying one way or the other I just wanted to see what y’all thought. Is it worth the effort to get the bars level. Does it actually improve 60ft times, how are you guys getting the bars level, if your lowering the car then how much? Sorry I’m not trying to be annoying I just wanted as much info as I can get. A little more background on the build, I’m building a turbocharged .30 over 427, Brodix bb2 plus aluminum heads, CSU blowthrough 750, msd 6btm with boost referenced timing retard. On 18 lbs of boost is supposed to be over 1000 hp. So I’m pounding the power to it, I have the Rhodes anti roll bar, boxes lowers, adjustable upper arms, mini tubbed, z44 sway bars and ss frame braces.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Be careful lowering the car. I lowered my 67 and hooks up great. The price being I had to buy a CV Driveshaft for $1,000 because the rear end pinion ended up higher than the transmission.
How far did you lower it
 

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Reread my post earlier and that answers your questions. For the street. It wont matter on the street anyway as it isn't gonna hook either way at that power level. Both what I started out as and how it sits now was explained. Then run it. If it doesn't hook at the track, lower the rear bar. I understand you want to get close but there isn't anything you can do but prepare with the correct parts and adjust from there.

Mike
 
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Discussion Starter #26
Reread my post earlier and that answers your questions. For the street. It wont matter on the street anyway as it isn't gonna hook either way at that power level. Both what I started out as and how it sits now was explained. Then run it. If it doesn't hook at the track, lower the rear bar. I understand you want to get close but there isn't anything you can do but prepare with the correct parts and adjust from there.

Mike
Sounds good thanks man, I really appreciate all the info you guys have shared. You guys rock.
 

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depends on tire, track prep, power level, and shocks.


typically a level lower arm with the rear of the top arm raised a bit works very good on most track preps. it is an excellent starting point.


lowering the back of the bottom bar will also work, but generates a lot of antisquat. not everyone has a shock to control that amount of movement, nor the shock valving to control the subsequent rebound.



relocating the lower arm like Georgia69 talks about only works on my car on the absolute best radial prepped tracks, on a marginal track i either spin 40-50 feet out or shake the tire badly.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
depends on tire, track prep, power level, and shocks.


typically a level lower arm with the rear of the top arm raised a bit works very good on most track preps. it is an excellent starting point.


lowering the back of the bottom bar will also work, but generates a lot of antisquat. not everyone has a shock to control that amount of movement, nor the shock valving to control the subsequent rebound.



relocating the lower arm like Georgia69 talks about only works on my car on the absolute best radial prepped tracks, on a marginal track i either spin 40-50 feet out or shake the tire badly.
Thanks man this is great info, I think I can get a 11 or 12 inch radial under it with the mini tubs, as for shocks I’m thinking I’ll run the competition products 3 way adj shocks 80/20. So I should be able to adjust the front raise and slow the decent to keep traction out past 60 ft. I was debating dropping it 2 inches since the factory height is pretty high. If I’m not mistaken I believe -2- -4 pinion angle is what I should aim for.
 

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What would you recommend?
I have Afco's on my car, but i'm sure Georgia69 would say they are also wrong 😂😂😂😂😂


here is an example of how wrong having the lower arm is:

 

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Guy in the other lane saying "HOW IN THE HELL!! DID THAT OLD FLAT HOODED 4 DOOR BEAT ME !!!!!!" 🤣
 

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I have Afco's on my car, but i'm sure Georgia69 would say they are also wrong 😂😂😂😂😂


here is an example of how wrong having the lower arm is:

What's "WRONG" ?... If my car hooked like that, I wouldn't complain!! o_O I don't know what I'd give to have my car pull the front wheels like that!...(y)

Claude.
 

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What's "WRONG" ?... If my car hooked like that, I wouldn't complain!! o_O I don't know what I'd give to have my car pull the front wheels like that!...(y)

Claude.
dunno, Georgia69 says it's wrong to level the lower bar, ask him 😊
 

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I have Afco's on my car, but i'm sure Georgia69 would say they are also wrong 😂😂😂😂😂


here is an example of how wrong having the lower arm is:

I was waiting for someone to say that wheelstands were wasted motion that needs to be used to make the car go forward, but all I see is 100% of the weight on the rear tires for better traction.
 

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I was waiting for someone to say that wheelstands were wasted motion that needs to be used to make the car go forward, but all I see is 100% of the weight on the rear tires for better traction.
I don't know but what I do know is that a nice wheelstand is fun, and also people in the stands love them. I wouldn't mind sacrificing a tenth or two for a nice "wheelie" on every run! :p
 

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I don't know but what I do know is that a nice wheelstand is fun, and also people in the stands love them. I wouldn't mind sacrificing a tenth or two for a nice "wheelie" on every run! :p
I'd like to see a pic of that GN launch.
 
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