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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Are the upper control arms raised in the rear?
No stock location. Funny you asked this, I ran Art Morrison no hop deal and my car had the same or similar feeling. I just figured it was setup more for the strip and not for corners. Guess not!
 

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1964 Chevrolet Chevelle Malibu 4 door
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You have any friends with a gopro? Mount it on the frame rail so you can see what's going on? Might be the only way to figure out what's happening..
 

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In your post #19 you mentioned having to back off a turn once initiated. I had that same problem with my stock steering box because the pitman arm shaft had some play in it. Once I replaced the original steering box with a TurnOne box, that "steering out of a turn" feeling is gone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
How much caster you running?

I am wondering if increasing your caster to like +6 may give a better feel and help the return to center of the steering box. I know my AGR box has a pretty poor return to center as well.
I don't remember, I used SC&C' s alignment specs, I want to say it is around 5 or 6. It tracks nicely on the highway, on a road with little to no crown I can take my hand off wheel, nice and straight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I don't remember, I used SC&C' s alignment specs, I want to say it is around 5 or 6. It tracks nicely on the highway, on a road with little to no crown I can take my hand off wheel, nice and straight.
Update with something I came across. Engines been out for a cam change and basic freshen, haven't done any more road testing. Had the front sway bar end links disconnected, noticed I couldn't rotate the bar, had to hang on it to move it! Bushings were pretty dry, lubed them and ended up shimming the clamps so it didn't squeeze the bar so tight.
Any thoughts on this and my issue? Not very sure it's related. This winter I plan to replace the poly upper diff side bushings with Roto or Jonnie type deal. Have all Currie stuff out back, so probably stick with the same manufacturer.
Engine hopefully is going back home this weekend, maybe get it out and whoop on it before snow and all that nastyness they spread on the roads!
 

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If you're running 5 or 6-deg of caster with stock spindles, I bet you have evil bump steer. As the front suspension compresses or extends, "bump steer" changes the toe-in and the effective steering input and makes a car feel loose. My car had the SC&C upper arms along with the taller ball joints when I acquired it and it had pretty substantial bump steer. So I installed a UMI (several others also make a kit...) bump steer correction kit that lowers the outboard end of the tie-rods so their angle more closely matches the lower control arm. That cured my bump steer over the normal range of my front suspension and the car now feels like it was carved from billet. Rear diff is an Eaton TrueTrac but that doesn't matter for turn-in, just powering out of a turn.
 

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I have raced oval track since the 70's. If everything is tight on the car and the alignment is pretty close, then the very first thing you check when you are loose going into the corner are the rear brakes. Too much rear brake will cause a very unstable feeling as you initially hit the brakes, even when going slightly straight. If it happens after you begin turning into the corner, then it could be your rear sway bar if you have one, or you have too much rear spring.

By the same token, too much front brake will cause your car to push on entry. That is why race cars can adjust their brakes front to back during a race and they do this all during a race to counter act the loss of fuel or changing track conditions.

Try not to over think this - Caster, camber or toe won't cause you to be terribly loose upon entry. Those are fine tuning things and so are shocks. Bump steer also won't cause you to be loose upon entry - Bump steer will jerk the steering wheel out of your hand - It will steer the car for you and you'll know it.

Remember this point and it will put things in perspective - The stiffest end breaks traction first....

Just my .02....grr
 

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Seems normal with a performance suspension.
as long as you鈥檙e not breaking traction. Maybe try reducing castor that will reduce steering effectiveness. You could also reduce camber to help tighten the steering effort. If you鈥檙e street driving.
 

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For starters I would replace the poly bushings with rubber. Make sure you tighten the nuts up when the car is on the ground at ride height. I never will use Poly bushings again. They had me chasing my tail many years ago. I switched to adjustable sphericals with delrin in the rear. Delrin in the front..
When I took my car out for the first drive with the new suspension what a difference!!! It felt like a modern performance car..

I keep the nuts holding the bushings finger tight. Drive the car around the neighborhood take it home and keep it on the ground don't jack anything up and tighten the nuts up to 70-80 ft pounds.

When I set my car to have 7.5 and 8 degrees positive caster I had to put coil spring spacers that add an inch at the spring. This removed bumpsteer..
I really like the ride height..

Car Wheel Land vehicle Tire Vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I changed out the poly uppers, housing side for some spherical bearing type, had them on hand. Disconnected rear sway bar, toe is 16" i, don't find anything loose.I was looking at some of thebump steer correction kits, Bear, TRZ, UMI, etc. I run across someone talking about making sure you tie rod assembles are the same length. Well looks like the drivers side is at least 5/8" longer that the passengers side.
Last time I drove my car, was going over some frost heaves, really noticed it darting around some.
 

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Not enough rebound on the rear shocks will make the rear loose. With your rear spring rates the back of the car should ride fairly compliant. The air springs could be your issue on ride harshness. That would also cause the car to be loose. If the rear is too harsh, rides like a dump truck as you called it, that will cause a loose situation too.
 
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