[71 RAT]

I been battling this loose feeling into a corner, basicly feels like an over loaded truck! Quick info for rear suspension ;
Currie lowers arms and adjustable uppers
Hellwig adjustable sway bar
Poly bushings in upper rear housing
QA1 single adjustable shocks
GW 130 springs
Air lift bags about 5psi
Things I tried;
Check all bolts and fasteners, several times
All 3 positions on rear sway bar, have not disconected it
Tire pressure
Air bag pressure
Firm up shocks
Recheck rear end is centered
Make it ride like an empty dump truck
Nothing made any difference, one way or another. The 295/45/18 tires are pretty close in the wheel wells, if the rear housing was moving much I'd think there would be a rub. I'm planning on swapping the poly upper bushings for UMI Roto Joints, or something similar. Had some spherical type in that position but the NVH was not tolerable.
My Tacoma with a 2" lift and taller tires doesn't squirm around as much.
I had the suspension set up for street strip deal, years and years. I lived with it, figured it was set up to try to go straight. The rear always tries to pass the front! YEEHAAA!!

 

[pannetron]

Check front end for toe out?

 

[cage2592]

HAHA! I get loose around every corner. I have all the same MODs as you though my rear springs are 120's, 20s in the rear and full Roto-joints and lowered as far as I can all around, Eaton True-trac. I have noticed over the years that as I tighten up the frame and suspension (poly body bushings as well) for a more modern and better handling driver, it gets looser. Im not running a rear swaybar either.

I was going to suggest what Pannetron stated for front suspension.

Mike

 

[-SS454-]

Are you braking or off throttle into the corner?

Is it steady throttle through the corner?

Is it when throttling out of the corner?

What is your front suspension?

 

[Hotwire]

Try disconnecting the rear sway bar to see if your tires are being planted, let the front bar do the work.

 

[71 RAT]

Check front end for toe out?

I'll check that, would think it would wander on the highway, goes nice and straight. Not going to write off anything.
Thanks

 

[71 RAT]

Are you braking or off throttle into the corner?

Is it steady throttle through the corner?

Is it when throttling out of the corner?

What is your front suspension?

No brake, steady throttle, not really sure coming out.
Front is;
SC&C stage 2
Hellwig hollow bar, adjustable end links w/hiem joints, I built
QA1 single adjustable 550 coilovers
Stock lowers reinforced delum bushings
Alignment was done to Marks specs

 

[Droptop72]

If it were a NASCAR type car with an adjustable track bar, you would lower the bar or in other words flatten the angle of bar. Is there anything on your setup that would allow you to lower the rear roll center?

 

[oldcutlass]

If it were a NASCAR type car with an adjustable track bar, you would lower the bar or in other words flatten the angle of bar. Is there anything on your setup that would allow you to lower the rear roll center?

Only if he were constantly turning left. The track bar moves the rear end off center left or right.

 

[-SS454-]

No brake, steady throttle, not really sure coming out.
Front is;
SC&C stage 2
Hellwig hollow bar, adjustable end links w/hiem joints, I built
QA1 single adjustable 550 coilovers
Stock lowers reinforced delum bushings
Alignment was done to Marks specs

What speed does this do it at?

It seems very unusual for a Chevelle to oversteer during steady speed cornering. At speeds high enough to break lateral traction, the Chevelle will have front end lift, not to mention the chassis is already balanced towards understeer, so you should slide the front tires first.

 

[senna]

Where is your shock dampening set?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[fauxrs]

Try disconnecting the rear sway bar to see if your tires are being planted, let the front bar do the work.

I gotta reiterate this comment, in some cases a rear swaybar can induce oversteer. Just quick disconnect it and tie it up in place and see if your cornering improves.

 

[71 RAT]

I want to thank everyone for your time and input. I'm fairly new to this going around corners deal!
Want to add, the loose/oversteer I'm feeling, the tires a re not breaking loose or sliding. Feels like to much weight in the rear, under inflated tires, or the rear end moving. Not sure about my lingo.
It sounds like most agree disconnecting the rear sway bar is the next step, after winter hibernation. If that helps, would using a stiffer front bar produce similar results ?

 

[-SS454-]

To me it sounds like either something is broken or shifting, or the car is too reactive for your liking.

I do not believe disconnecting the rear bar will make a diff. Unless you are talking about cornering at the limit of grip, you are not actually experiencing oversteer (as you mentioned). When you tried the different settings, did you feel any diff?

Have you checked your body mounts?

You never mentioned your shock settings. Maybe set them to the middle setting

What kind of seats do you have? You have good parts, so your car should be able to handle well (on paper), so if you still have the stock bench seats and a lap belt, maybe some of the sensation is you sliding around? I know when I went from the stock seats to some Procar seats, i felt more connected with the car.

 

[Hotwire]

To me it sounds like either something is broken or shifting, or the car is too reactive for your liking.

I do not believe disconnecting the rear bar will make a diff. Unless you are talking about cornering at the limit of grip, you are not actually experiencing oversteer (as you mentioned). When you tried the different settings, did you feel any diff?

Have you checked your body mounts?

You never mentioned your shock settings. Maybe set them to the middle setting

What kind of seats do you have? You have good parts, so your car should be able to handle well (on paper), so if you still have the stock bench seats and a lap belt, maybe some of the sensation is you sliding around? I know when I went from the stock seats to some Procar seats, i felt more connected with the car.

I was seeing it as the sway bar may be too big in the rear pulling a tire reducing footprint of inside tire and reducing traction if front bar isn't doing its job.

I can easily knock the ass end of mine loose any time I want. Have the old style rear bar that ties the lower arms together. I can feel exactly when the car leans too much, rear bar starts binding, and the inside tire starts fighting. Couple that with limited slip diff and it's throttle steer city.

As you've stated it could be something broken or shifting, but I think that would lend to feeling it in straight acceleration as well, not just turning?

 

[71 RAT]

To me it sounds like either something is broken or shifting, or the car is too reactive for your liking.

I do not believe disconnecting the rear bar will make a diff. Unless you are talking about cornering at the limit of grip, you are not actually experiencing oversteer (as you mentioned). When you tried the different settings, did you feel any diff?

Have you checked your body mounts?

You never mentioned your shock settings. Maybe set them to the middle setting

What kind of seats do you have? You have good parts, so your car should be able to handle well (on paper), so if you still have the stock bench seats and a lap belt, maybe some of the sensation is you sliding around? I know when I went from the stock seats to some Procar seats, i felt more connected with the car.

I've looked closely at the frame mounting points etc, several times. Is there any particular areas you have in mind?
Body mounts are fairly new rubber reproduction, tried poly but to much NVH for me. I retighten once. That will go on the list also.
Shock settings, thought there was 12 settings but QA1 shows 18. I normally ran them pretty soft 3 or 4, tried up to 7 rear and 5 front.
As far as anything, body, rear end. My rear tires only have 3/8" + - clearance, surprised they don't make an contact !
Seats are OE buckets, foam could use to be replaced. I always use my lap belt. Went in the woods years ago, probably wouldn't have happened if I wasn't falling out of the seat!

Ligo wise, when I talking someone experienced, should I call this overreacting, oversees, or something else?

Really want to try an auto x course, at some POINT.

THANKS HAVE A GOOD WEEKEND

 

[senna]

I think most of these components are proven.

Things I would change,

The air bags? I don't know anything about those. I assume they're inside the coil spring. And 5psi dosen't sound like much. But are they contributing?

I would add udjustable upper control arm with spherical joints. A set of Curies with johny joints would be nice.

These rear end from the factory had very flexible rubber bushings to allow the different angles of the upper and lower control arms travel with less binding. On your car you now have replaced 75% of the rubber with much firmer polly bushings.

My car with a lot of the same components was very predictable to drive. I have Curie arms top bottom.

It doesn't really have to be Curies but spherical joint would be nice.

Sent from my SM-T720 using Tapatalk

 

[-SS454-]

I've looked closely at the frame mounting points etc, several times. Is there any particular areas you have in mind?
Body mounts are fairly new rubber reproduction, tried poly but to much NVH for me. I retighten once. That will go on the list also.
Shock settings, thought there was 12 settings but QA1 shows 18. I normally ran them pretty soft 3 or 4, tried up to 7 rear and 5 front.
As far as anything, body, rear end. My rear tires only have 3/8" + - clearance, surprised they don't make an contact !
Seats are OE buckets, foam could use to be replaced. I always use my lap belt. Went in the woods years ago, probably wouldn't have happened if I wasn't falling out of the seat!

Ligo wise, when I talking someone experienced, should I call this overreacting, oversees, or something else?

Really want to try an auto x course, at some POINT.

THANKS HAVE A GOOD WEEKEND

I would just check the bolts on the body mounts and the control arms, make sure something isn't loose.

In a racing environment this should be pretty easy to diagnose and rectify, but that's putting the car to the limit on entry, mid, and exit of the corner. However you are saying it's doing this at steady throttle through a corner, not on lift or braking, and not on acceleration. And not at speeds fast enough to brake lateral grip.

Loose is a common term in Nascar land, which is their way of saying oversteer. Either term is the rear losing traction before the front. Like you said, the rear trying to pass the front.

What I meant by the car being to reactive is the when your steering inputs make the car instantly respond. I see you have a an AGR steering box, most likely 12:1. Combined with spherical, delrin, and poly bushings, this can feel much more precise over stock, and some people don't like it.

Also the way the body rolls can have a weird feeling. Usually this is only an issue with hard cornering. Front end may dive to one corner on turn in. Or it may want to squat a rear corner on exit.

Maybe more detail to the exact scenario it happens? The length of the corner, at what point in the corner, the speed you are going, etc etc.

 

[71 RAT]

I think most of these components are proven.

Things I would change,

The air bags? I don't know anything about those. I assume they're inside the coil spring. And 5psi dosen't sound like much. But are they contributing?

I would add udjustable upper control arm with spherical joints. A set of Curies with johny joints would be nice.

These rear end from the factory had very flexible rubber bushings to allow the different angles of the upper and lower control arms travel with less binding. On your car you now have replaced 75% of the rubber with much firmer polly bushings.

My car with a lot of the same components was very predictable to drive. I have Curie arms top bottom.

It doesn't really have to be Curies but spherical joint would be nice.

Sent from my SM-T720 using Tapatalk

I would just check the bolts on the body mounts and the control arms, make sure something isn't loose.

In a racing environment this should be pretty easy to diagnose and rectify, but that's putting the car to the limit on entry, mid, and exit of the corner. However you are saying it's doing this at steady throttle through a corner, not on lift or braking, and not on acceleration. And not at speeds fast enough to brake lateral grip.

Loose is a common term in Nascar land, which is their way of saying oversteer. Either term is the rear losing traction before the front. Like you said, the rear trying to pass the front.

What I meant by the car being to reactive is the when your steering inputs make the car instantly respond. I see you have a an AGR steering box, most likely 12:1. Combined with spherical, delrin, and poly bushings, this can feel much more precise over stock, and some people don't like it.

Also the way the body rolls can have a weird feeling. Usually this is only an issue with hard cornering. Front end may dive to one corner on turn in. Or it may want to squat a rear corner on exit.

Maybe more detail to the exact scenario it happens? The length of the corner, at what point in the corner, the speed you are going, etc etc.

I'll attempt to provide more info on the scenario.
Highway off ramp, 60 70 mph, up hill slightly, about 90 degree corner, I'll call it long sweeping, very little body roll. Right then left, haven't noticed turning right, need to confirm. Just after I start feel the corner load, have to steer slightly back out of the corner.
I'm terrible at explaining things. Again it's not breaking traction.
The best way for me to tell you what I'm feeling is, under inflated your back tires a go into a corner to fast. The rear of the vehicle unstable, but not actually looking traction.

To me it sounds like either something is broken or shifting, or the car is too reactive for your liking.

I do not believe disconnecting the rear bar will make a diff. Unless you are talking about cornering at the limit of grip, you are not actually experiencing oversteer (as you mentioned). When you tried the different settings, did you feel any diff?

Have you checked your body mounts?

You never mentioned your shock settings. Maybe set them to the middle setting

What kind of seats do you have? You have good parts, so your car should be able to handle well (on paper), so if you still have the stock bench seats and a lap belt, maybe some of the sensation is you sliding around? I know when I went from the stock seats to some Procar seats, i felt more connected with the car.

I think most of these components are proven.

Things I would change,

The air bags? I don't know anything about those. I assume they're inside the coil spring. And 5psi dosen't sound like much. But are they contributing?

I would add udjustable upper control arm with spherical joints. A set of Curies with johny joints would be nice.

These rear end from the factory had very flexible rubber bushings to allow the different angles of the upper and lower control arms travel with less binding. On your car you now have replaced 75% of the rubber with much firmer polly bushings.

My car with a lot of the same components was very predictable to drive. I have Curie arms top bottom.

It doesn't really have to be Curies but spherical joint would be nice.

Sent from my SM-T720 using Tapatalk

I would just check the bolts on the body mounts and the control arms, make sure something isn't loose.

In a racing environment this should be pretty easy to diagnose and rectify, but that's putting the car to the limit on entry, mid, and exit of the corner. However you are saying it's doing this at steady throttle through a corner, not on lift or braking, and not on acceleration. And not at speeds fast enough to brake lateral grip.

Loose is a common term in Nascar land, which is their way of saying oversteer. Either term is the rear losing traction before the front. Like you said, the rear trying to pass the front.

What I meant by the car being to reactive is the when your steering inputs make the car instantly respond. I see you have a an AGR steering box, most likely 12:1. Combined with spherical, delrin, and poly bushings, this can feel much more precise over stock, and some people don't like it.

Also the way the body rolls can have a weird feeling. Usually this is only an issue with hard cornering. Front end may dive to one corner on turn in. Or it may want to squat a rear corner on exit.

Maybe more detail to the exact scenario it happens? The length of the corner, at what point in the corner, the speed you are going, etc etc.

 

[77 cruiser]

Are the upper control arms raised in the rear?