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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This gremlin has some similarities to some of the other posts yet it is a totally different light. Here goes.

67 convertible...With the key off, a light inside the speedometer (pink and brown wires) is on. With the key on, it goes out. Here's the kicker. When this light is on, the underdash ("dome") lights are on very faintlly whether the door is open or not. Turn on the key and the dome lights are off as well, as usual. This light in the speedo does not come on when I turn the headlights on either.

I tried to do some poking around and pulling out fuses to see what effect that had. So I pulled out the fuse that read Back Up Lights on one side and Guages on the other. With the fuse gone, the light stays on but is extremely faint. I decided I better unhook the battery and when I do, the relay clicks as it is pulling juice.

Help Please???

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my 67 droptop
 

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This one should be very interesting, I wish you were here, I love solving theese type of problems

Sorry to reply when I don't really an answer, I'll have to let someone else do that since I don't know what the "pink and brown wire light" is on a 67 (dash lights have grey wires)

The pink wires usually "go hot" when the key is turned on so it sounds like it's back feeding through the dome light circuit's ground which is putting the lights in series


PS:
just saw this in the other 67 thread;

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Dale McIntosh:

I have some wiring diagrams on my 67 site at http://www.team67.com/information/index.htm and click the "Wiring Diagrams" link on the left if it'd help any.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Looks like it's the "GEN" light
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/tempDC_67inst.jpg



[This message has been edited by Dean (edited 06-20-2002).]
 

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Which relay clicks? That should begin pointing you in the right direction.

I'm with Dean on this, if you had the car here I could help. It's very difficult for me to try troubleshooting electrical problems with conversations over the boards.

Wild guesses:

Short in ignition switch?
Short in fuse box?
Spaghetti wiring with several wires twisted and taped together?
Corrosion across fuse box?
Mice?

Again, find that relay that's clicking.

Disconnect it and see what happens. Trace from there.

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My Web Page (updated 05-22-02)

"Long Live Freedom!"

Chad Landry
TC Member #643
ACES Member #4556
'68 El Camino, 357, L31 Vortec heads, 700R4, 8.2 10-bolt, 3.55 gears, Auburn Pro Posi.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by cjlandry:
Which relay clicks? That should begin pointing you in the right direction.

Wild guesses:

Short in ignition switch?
Short in fuse box?
Spaghetti wiring with several wires twisted and taped together?
Corrosion across fuse box?
Mice?

Again, find that relay that's clicking.

Disconnect it and see what happens. Trace from there.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

All of the above. Except for the mice.

I am not very good with wiring, so any help offered will be beneficial.

I think I meant to say regulator rather than relay before. It was late. What's clicking when I unhook the battery is the voltage regulator. That makes sense that it is the gen light. It is an old Malibu harness with guages.

Does that info make it any easier to diagnose?
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my 67 droptop



[This message has been edited by chadh5 (edited 06-20-2002).]
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
1, Remove the plug from the regulator.
2, Turn the ignition key to the ON position.
3, Measure the regulator connector brown wire to a good ground.
You should have around 12 volts.
4, Switch the key to OFF.
5, Measure the brown wire again to ground. What do you read?

This was from the other gen light thread. Am I correct to assume that this is my next step? What am I looking for in this procedure?

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my 67 droptop

[This message has been edited by chadh5 (edited 06-20-2002).]
 

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That sounds like a good procedure from what I can gather. Where is the other thread that you got that from?

I'm trying to figure out why the lights would come on when you turn the key off. Unless the key switch is shorted and feeding current when it's off, I'm stumped.

------------------
My Web Page (updated 05-22-02)

"Long Live Freedom!"

Chad Landry
TC Member #643
ACES Member #4556
'68 El Camino, 357, L31 Vortec heads, 700R4, 8.2 10-bolt, 3.55 gears, Auburn Pro Posi.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
This thread mentions a diode block. What is that?
http://www.chevelles.com/forum/Forum22/HTML/001040.html

This one mentions the Voltage Regulator could have gone bad. Mine is only a couple years old too. I got it at Napa. Would it be solid state already?
http://www.chevelles.com/forum/Forum22/HTML/001046.html

Oh, and my battery is new this year. Alternator is a couple years old.
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my 67 droptop

[This message has been edited by chadh5 (edited 06-21-2002).]

[This message has been edited by chadh5 (edited 06-21-2002).]
 

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Ouch!

Now that's a GREMLIN!

I get 'em in the SCR system at work sometimes. With those intermittent glitches I usually can't find the problem until it gets bigger.

I search for 'em with oscilloscopes, multimeters, setting up min/max time tracks on several different readings, and anything else I can think of to isolate the trouble, but the glitches always occur when I'm not watching. I really love it when it stumps the engineers.


------------------
My Web Page (updated 06-21-02)

"Long Live Freedom!"

Chad Landry
TC Member #643
ACES Member #4556
'68 El Camino, 357, L31 Vortec heads, 700R4, 8.2 10-bolt, 3.55 gears, Auburn Pro Posi.

[This message has been edited by cjlandry (edited 06-23-2002).]
 
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