[Jim_66SS]

Will I break bolt bosses at transmission, water pump, and and water neck trying to lift engine this way. Thanks

 

[NickeyChevelle]

I realize you'd like to keep as many parts installed as possible, however I think you'd be better off to remove the Dizzy, the Thermostat housing, the hose nipple, and the oil filler tube prior to the install. The Dizzy is likely to get smacked around (especially if there's a tranny attached), the Thermostat housing is problematic, but with it removed you should be able to move your chain to a better bolt hole, the hose nipple and the pretty oil filler tube are also likely to get damaged.

A load leveler will spread the chains out further, but I do like the egg crate idea. Your use washers to snug up the lift brackets to the block is good.

If the factory could move around an L-89s with no breakage, your mill should be fine. You should be able to use a carb lift plate...

 

[billdini]

Geeze Jim I might not be too concerned about lifting the front via that pump but the bell housing horizontal bolts would give me a nightmare. I see you bought the look a like double hump heads. Cool. Sorry I can't be more help but I always lift by the intake bolts and the normal Chevy SBC eyes.

 

[77 cruiser]

Why no manifold plate?

 

[vortec710]

I would not recommend using the thermostat housing as a lift point and I have to agree with Billidini about using the bell housing bolts. Most of the time using the 4 corners of the intake with a load leveler works best..but remove the distributor first.

 

[oldcutlass]

Just buy a carb plate, I lift BBC with trans attached with them.

 

[Aml383]

Will I break bolt bosses at transmission, water pump, and and water neck trying to lift engine this way. Thanks

We usually just lock the tranny in so that it cant move in any direction at all whatsoever.
Pull the motor with a carb plate and then when motor goes back in theres no way to screw it up and I dont think theres any more efficient way to do it

 

[Hotwire]

I think the L brackets and chain on the back of the block will become a problem as you're seating the motor into the mounts. The less you have sticking off the block the better it is. As with everyone else, get a carb plate or a load leveler. You can even get threaded rod, remove the 4 outside bolts on the intake and install threaded rod/nuts to capture the chain. Good luck!

Not to say I'm expert or slept at a Holiday Inn, but just took this pic 4/21.. (364-400hp 😁)

 

[jimmy101]

I made up 4 brackets out of aluminum..

 

[The Camaro Guy]

Carb Plate

 

[Jim_66SS]

I’ll post a photo soon. Took most every thing off except the 66 chrome oil filler tube. Used the two top water pump mounting holes and. The rear manifold mounting holes on each side. No mount ing holes on the TrickFlow heads I bought for a 66 application. Engine in truck heading for a Dyno tomorrow.

 

[68Chevele]

My buddy make carb plates out of good angle iron. He made me one 30 years ago and I used last week moving one of the BBC around. Never liked chains unless I am absolutely have to use them.

 

[nitrofox]

Carb plate K.I.S.S.

 

[Tom Mobley]

what he said,.

 

[Ialone]

I have used just about every hole avail at one time or another. Intake holes, Head accessory holes, exhaust manifold holes, bell housing holes. Carb plate. what ever works best at that moment.

Think of it this way, A carb plate uses just 4 5/16" studs/bolts... if you can lift it with those, 4 of anything larger will be fine as long as you are not bending, scratching or breaking something in the way.

 

[Jim_66SS]

I had height issues getting it in the pickup with a topper so I remove everything I might break an did this

 

[Chevelle 1969]

I have used just about every hole avail at one time or another. Intake holes, Head accessory holes, exhaust manifold holes, bell housing holes. Carb plate. what ever works best at that moment.

Think of it this way, A carb plate uses just 4 5/16" studs/bolts... if you can lift it with those, 4 of anything larger will be fine as long as you are not bending, scratching or breaking something in the way.

Me too and when I was Young I once had to bend and use my biggest crowbar etc to get the engine up very tight against the cross member with big kickout pan so a bolt snapped and the cherry picker took a jump and put a nice hole in the fiber glass hood 🤣
After that I decided to buy a carb lift plate and all I can say is it was worth the money.

 

[need-for-speed]

Me too and when I was Young I once had to bend and use my biggest crowbar etc to get the engine up very tight against the cross member with big kickout pan so a bolt snapped and the cherry picker took a jump and put a nice hole in the fiber glass hood 🤣
After that I decided to buy a carb lift plate and all I can say is it was worth the money.

Well, they say knowledge is expensive. 🤣 There is no better example than the car hobby LOL.

Those carb lift plates are definitely reasonably priced. No doubt they are safe because so many are in use. It just seems weird (scary) having all that weight hanging on those 4 small carb studs.........

Funnny thing is, I pulled the motor out of my ‘79 Camaro 30 years ago when I rebuilt it but I can’t remember how I attached to it. I think I had those small brackets that attache under an intake manifold bolt (on 2 corners). In fact, that original 305 in that car came with one of those lifting hooks installed, but I think it just had one, on the front. Time to dig around in the attic to see if I still have it.

 

[Rich-L79]

I've always used exhaust manifold bolts at opposite corners. Never a problem.