[MuscleRat21]

Hey everyone,
new to this page and was just wondering If I could get some detailed info on building a 383,
I could read which I do but would like some experienced knowledge on the subject!
a couple of questions
1. When having a machine shop do all balancing, magnefluxing, boring, resurfacing what else needs to be provided with the block to complete this task?
2. Will the machine shop also do clearances for the 400 crank?
3. My goal for this block is to get at least 400-450hp out of it, do you guys have specs and recommendations? (heads, pistons, rods, etc.)
Again this is me just trying to learn more about building something to be able to get around the slow guy because right now I am the slow guy.
I also have an 89 GMC sierra c1500 v6 4.3l
I will have a lot more questions to follow
Thank you

 

[68Chevele]

Welcome to the site, a 383 SBC is basically a small bore 400 using a 350 block. They can make good power but I like 400's better. Bigger bore of a 400 block will make a head breath better, the downside to 400's are the factory blocks are weaker. Getting a 383 balanced is a must. I am sure others will chime in.

 

[MuscleRat21]

Thanks but are you able to awnser the questions im aware of the what a 383 is haha i just need to start learning more about detail of what i need to do in the future. Also 400 blocks are becoming far and few between as ive been told! Again thank you the knoweldge

 

[YAV8]

Simple build if you can so some of the work your self. Start with a late model Vortec block 880 is the casting. (years 96-2001 plastic cover over timing chain) Take to the machine shop and have it bored and clearanced and cam bearing put in. Next go to Competition Products 1-800-233-0199 and order their balanced stroker kit for around $850. bucks and it comes with everything crank, rods with floating pins, rings, bearings, rods and mains, balancer and flex plate and put it together. You will need to do a little bending on the windage tray. Now you have a set of very good vortec heads to be checked out and new valve seals put on. You will need a set of valve spring to hand the lift of the cam you choose. My go to cam is the Comp. EX-282. Car craft did one and it was making something like 450hp and 485 on TQ. Look it up easy reading. Easly done for under $2000 I have done 6 of these and every one has been very impressive for the time and money spent.

 

[68Malibu]

I've used vortec heads on a 383. I ported them and they made great power with comp 274 XE. If cam has much lift over stock, valve guides will need to me machined down to eliminate valve spring retainer interference.

I've I've built two 383 Chevy's and I've always had to Clarence the block for the connecting rods but not for the crank. An experienced machine shop can do the clearance for you and that will save you lots of time, but of course you'll have to pay for it.

There are plenty of good cylinder heads if you don't want vortec. I would start with your goals for the car, then call comp cams or another Cam manufacturer and get recommendations. Then, start shopping cylinder heads and intake.

You can certainly go the vortec route like mentioned above and do this inexpensively and make good power or, you could go with excellent aftermarket cylinder heads, healthy Cam and you can easily make 500-525 horsepower. All about $$.

 

[japete92]

Here's a link to some info (perhaps too much) you may find helpful:

building a 383, things to think about - Chevy Message Forum - Restoration and Repair Help

Chevy Forums FREE technical assistance for your restoration and repair. Model specific subject matter experts, classified ads and more.

www.chevytalk.org

If you are not racing and not spending a lot of time at high rpms (you're a 'street driver'), focus on the low end torque when designing/building' ANY engine. A '383' will rather easily produce a max 440 'ish' lb ft of torque (400 + from around 2k - 4k rpm), about 400 hp max at around 5400 rpm.

Such an engine is built more for reliability than 'power'.

No exotic 'racing' parts; just 'production' level. No high lift cam/ultra strong springs, etc (stuff that tends to break when racing, but allow the higher rpms which make more hp).

A new 350 block is about $1200. How would that compare with starting with an 'used' block plus labor? Risks?

Just info.

Pete

 

[MuscleRat21]

Simple build if you can so some of the work your self. Start with a late model Vortec block 880 is the casting. (years 96-2001 plastic cover over timing chain) Take to the machine shop and have it bored and clearanced and cam bearing put in. Next go to Competition Products 1-800-233-0199 and order their balanced stroker kit for around $850. bucks and it comes with everything crank, rods with floating pins, rings, bearings, rods and mains, balancer and flex plate and put it together. You will need to do a little bending on the windage tray. Now you have a set of very good vortec heads to be checked out and new valve seals put on. You will need a set of valve spring to hand the lift of the cam you choose. My go to cam is the Comp. EX-282. Car craft did one and it was making something like 450hp and 485 on TQ. Look it up easy reading. Easly done for under $2000 I have done 6 of these and every one has been very impressive for the time and money spent.

Thank you so much for the info but ai think im going to stay away from vortec for me its about the aging and effectiveness of everything done and definatly not about the money! I will keep rhis in mind though again thank you!!

 

[MuscleRat21]

Here's a link to some info (perhaps too much) you may find helpful:

building a 383, things to think about - Chevy Message Forum - Restoration and Repair Help

Chevy Forums FREE technical assistance for your restoration and repair. Model specific subject matter experts, classified ads and more.

www.chevytalk.org

If you are not racing and not spending a lot of time at high rpms (you're a 'street driver'), focus on the low end torque when designing/building' ANY engine. A '383' will rather easily produce a max 440 'ish' lb ft of torque (400 + from around 2k - 4k rpm), about 400 hp max at around 5400 rpm.

Such an engine is built more for reliability than 'power'.

No exotic 'racing' parts; just 'production' level. No high lift cam/ultra strong springs, etc (stuff that tends to break when racing, but allow the higher rpms which make more hp).

A new 350 block is about $1200. How would that compare with starting with an 'used' block plus labor? Risks?

Just info.

Pete

PETE,
Thank you alot for this link and yes im definatly not trying to race just want to build something nice that sounds good and has alittle spice behind it!! And I plan on purchasing a new block not an old one bc there could posibly be cracks do you have a good suggestion with who I should by from?

 

[MuscleRat21]

I've used vortec heads on a 383. I ported them and they made great power with comp 274 XE. If cam has much lift over stock, valve guides will need to me machined down to eliminate valve spring retainer interference.

I've I've built two 383 Chevy's and I've always had to Clarence the block for the connecting rods but not for the crank. An experienced machine shop can do the clearance for you and that will save you lots of time, but of course you'll have to pay for it.

There are plenty of good cylinder heads if you don't want vortec. I would start with your goals for the car, then call comp cams or another Cam manufacturer and get recommendations. Then, start shopping cylinder heads and intake.

You can certainly go the vortec route like mentioned above and do this inexpensively and make good power or, you could go with excellent aftermarket cylinder heads, healthy Cam and you can easily make 500-525 horsepower. All about $$.

Thank you for the knowledge and i ment to say connecting rods haha also im going to try to stay away from vortec to be honest but if it comes down to it ill stir the idea!!

 

[MuscleRat21]

Couple more questions and sorry to jump around like this but
1. Would you guy recommend RHS heads over Vortec ive been told RHS does need any extra machining but Vortec does
2. Way off subject but with a bigger engine in my truck (curretly have v6 4.3l) what should I do suspension wise? Any recommendations?

 

[shovelrick]

I wouldn't worry about truck suspension going from a V6 to V8 as long as your springs are still good, 89 ? maybe is time for new springs?, I think Competition Products sell blocks and the prices always seem good with them, if not check with Mike Lewis aka Wolfplace, I bought my balanced rotating assb, and Brodix heads from him at a very reasonable price

 

[MuscleRat21]

I wouldn't worry about truck suspension going from a V6 to V8 as long as your springs are still good, 89 ? maybe is time for new springs?, I think Competition Products sell blocks and the prices always seem good with them

Thank you for the quick response I appreciate it! And ya i dont think the springs have been changed since 89 haha the only issue is I also want to build my whole truck not just my engine this has been a dream of mine and money isnt an issue! How every if I can save some ill do that. I want my truck to be pristine!

 

[shovelrick]

UMI has excellent suspension upgrade complete kits for our old cars so maybe for the 89 model chevy trucks too edit looks like up to 87 C10 C15, I'd give them a call

 

[MuscleRat21]

UMI has excellent suspension upgrade complete kits for our old cars so maybe for the 89 model chevy trucks too edit looks like up to 87 C10 C15, I'd give them a call

Dude thank you so much im super excited!! For this build and hope things turn out like i plan but when does anything turn out how you plan haha!
Also should I upgrade to four disk brakes or just stay at 2 with the drum brakes

 

[shovelrick]

I went with 4 whl discs but I had a 12 bolt rear end rebuilt so it wasn't really much more work, I guess it really comes down to what you want, they make great shoes now and I think rear is only about 25-30% of your stopping anyway?, Wilwood makes nice kits if you go that route, lot of folks use 2000ish Camaro/Firebird brakes on the old cars but I don't know if those work on your truck?

 

[MuscleRat21]

I went with 4 whl discs but I had a 12 bolt rear end rebuilt so it wasn't really much more work, I guess it really comes down to what you want, they make great shoes now and I think rear is only about 25-30% of your stopping anyway?, Wilwood makes nice kits if you go that route, lot of folks use 2000ish Camaro/Firebird brakes on the old cars but I don't know if those work on your truck?

Once you replace drums to disks is brakes applied evenly across all disks?
And ya ill have to rebuild my rear end due to a lot more hp/tq and wondering if I could just maintain the whole axle and just replace inner components to adjust for the increase of power?

 

[shovelrick]

Just make the rear end up to the TQ, I installed a Wilwood adj. porportioning valve, spelled that wrong but you know what I mean lol

 

[MuscleRat21]

Just make the rear end up to the TQ, I installed a Wilwood adj. porportioning valve, spelled that wrong but you know what I mean lol

Haha dude thank you so much! as im building my engine i want to understand my tranmission and was wondering if a t5 or a t56 will fit in my truck do you have specifics on which tranny to use i do not want automatic just cant get away from manual! Now I know alot if people are against manuals when you start getting into hp that high but im going to stay with manual bc idc haha i was looking at these 2 and researched for fitting but noone that I saw put a t56 in, however I understand that with these trannys I will have to buy an shifting linkage and bracket for the compensation of truck size! What are your thoughts!!

 

[japete92]

PETE,
Thank you alot for this link and yes im definatly not trying to race just want to build something nice that sounds good and has alittle spice behind it!! And I plan on purchasing a new block not an old one bc there could posibly be cracks do you have a good suggestion with who I should by from?

Maybe one from GM?

383 Bare Block (1986 – Later Style), 1-Piece Rear Main Seal

Check out the deal on 383 Bare Block (1986 – Later Style), 1-Piece Rear Main Seal at GM Performance Motor

www.gmperformancemotor.com

While on their site, take a look at their crate engines. They may be an economical alternative.

Pete

 

[Aml383]

PETE,
Thank you alot for this link and yes im definatly not trying to race just want to build something nice that sounds good and has alittle spice behind it!! And I plan on purchasing a new block not an old one bc there could posibly be cracks do you have a good suggestion with who I should by from?

You really dont need a new block . There are an overabundance of good blocks around and your machine shop will ofcourse check the block before machining it