[Jp-15]

I just put a new cam in a '92 sbc 350. I've got it at TDC #1 cylinder and the lines on the timing gears are lined up. Now the sequence says

as follows:
#1 cyl TDC compression stroke.
Adjust intake valves on 1,2,5, & 7
Adjust exhaust valves on 1,3,4, & 8

Then rotate the crankshaft one turn to the TDC mark, which will put cyl 6 at TDC compression stroke. (#1 will be TDC exhaust stroke)
Adjust intake valves 3,4,6, & 8
Adjust exhaust valves on 2,5,6, & 7

The problem I'm having is the #8 exhaust valve is open on the first sequence. I was told they have to be shut when lashed. True? Any ideas? First cam install.

 

[Mike]

I just put a new cam in a '92 sbc 350. I've got it at TDC #1 cylinder and the lines on the timing gears are lined up. Now the sequence says

as follows:
#1 cyl TDC compression stroke.

If you have the gears dot to dot (ie: cam @ 6 o'clock and crank @12 o'clock then your at #6 cyl TDC compression stroke -NOT #1 cyl TDC compression stroke.
From your stated starting position above ,you need to rotate the crank 1 turn to get to #1 TDC compression stroke ,then you can follow the shown procedure.

I prefer the hot lash method :thumbsup:

 

[kettbo]

When you install the cam, the marks being in the classic 'dot-to-dot' position, you are 360* out of phase at the crank. Rotate the crank one turn and you will be TDC #1.
The little things they put in small print somewhere.....
This is why so many people when they go to start their engine...find themselves 180* off on the distributor

 

[aukai]

When the intake valve is just closing adjust the exhaust when the exhaust is just opening adjust the intake. I go cylinder by cylinder no mix ups and you are on the base circle of the cam each time. it is called the EOIC method.

 

[Schurkey]

When the intake valve is just closing adjust the exhaust when the exhaust is just opening adjust the intake. I go cylinder by cylinder no mix ups and you are on the base circle of the cam each time. it is called the EOIC method.

EOIC is an excellent method for setting lash on a solid-lifter cam. It wastes a lot of time on a hydraulic cam that just needs "normal" preload.

So--assuming this is a hydraulic cam: I suggest the "MotorDaddy Method" for a first-timer.

Loosen ALL the rockers. ALL 16 pushrods have free play (lash.)

Put the crankshaft ANYWHERE AT ALL. It does NOT matter where the crank ends up. TDC, BDC, twelve degrees past TDC on #4--It is NOT IMPORTANT. You may want to put a paint mark or something on the damper, lined up with the timing pointer.

Tighten ALL 16 rockers JUST ENOUGH to get rid of free play. (Bring them to the zero-lash point) If the intake manifold is still off--so you can SEE the lifter plunger--so much the better. Too many newbies can't find the zero-lash point; and get WAY TOO MUCH preload. So it helps to be able to see the lifter plunger.

Rotate the crank EXACTLY one turn--360 degrees, no more no less. Your paint mark (if you made one) is in the same position it was, relative to the timing pointer. Since the camshaft turns at 1/2 the rate of the crank, the cam is now only 1/2 turn around--180 degrees.

Some rocker arms that you just tightened before turning the crankshaft are now loose. Tighten all the loose rockers JUST ENOUGH to get rid of free play. (Bring them to the zero-lash point.) Any that are still tight, LEAVE ALONE. At this point, all 16 lifters are at the zero-lash point and ready for the preload to be added.

Tighten ALL 16 rockers the amount you choose for preload. Most guys seem to use 1/2 turn. Works for me. Don't forget to tighten the set screws if you're using fancy rocker nuts.

Stick a fork in it, YOU'RE DONE with the lifter preload adjustment except to install the valve covers.

 

[aukai]

I think we got it covered:yes:

 

[trmnatr]

When you install the cam, the marks being in the classic 'dot-to-dot' position, you are 360* out of phase at the crank. Rotate the crank one turn and you will be TDC #1.
The little things they put in small print somewhere.....
This is why so many people when they go to start their engine...find themselves 180* off on the distributor

Your looking upside down there, Dot To Dot is on #1 cam to crank dot, 0° {on the balancer} lines up with 0° on the pointer, rotate the crank a full 360° {one revolution} and the 0° mark still lines up with 0° on the pointer but then the cam is 180° out with the dot facing up at 12'0 clock towards the intake manifold then another 360° revolution on the crank will bring the crank back on 0° again on the pointer but the dot on the cam gear will line up with the dot on the crank gear

The cam turns 1/2 speed of the crank

 

[trmnatr]

I just put a new cam in a '92 sbc 350. I've got it at TDC #1 cylinder and the lines on the timing gears are lined up. Now the sequence says

as follows:
#1 cyl TDC compression stroke.
Adjust intake valves on 1,2,5, & 7
Adjust exhaust valves on 1,3,4, & 8

Then rotate the crankshaft one turn to the TDC mark, which will put cyl 6 at TDC compression stroke. (#1 will be TDC exhaust stroke)
Adjust intake valves 3,4,6, & 8
Adjust exhaust valves on 2,5,6, & 7

The problem I'm having is the #8 exhaust valve is open on the first sequence. I was told they have to be shut when lashed. True? Any ideas? First cam install.

Pre adjust the valves, when the exhaust starts to open adjust the intake, when the intake valve goes to full lift and starts closing "{in the middle of full lift and closed} stop and adjust that exhaust valve on that cylinder

That works for solid and hyd, although if its hyd you should fire it up and adjust the valves with it running

 

[Jp-15]

So the dot to dot position is 360 out and I have to go one full turn on the crank to get it to TDC #1? Then re-drop my distributor. Seems as though the cam dot and crank dot would be at 12 o'clock then? Arnt they supposed to be lined up at TDC #1?

Thanks for all the quick replies. I like the "motor daddy" way of doing it. never heard of it. This is a hydraulic flat tappet cam, I want to lash them at zero correct?

 

[trmnatr]

Dot ot DOT is #1, when the balancer is on 0 and the cam gear dot is facing the intake 12'0 clock that is 180° out on the distributer

 

[aukai]

Drop the dist in turn the motor till the rotor points to where you want # 1 to be pull the dist rotate the eng using the timing mark tdc # 1 compression if you have the timing mark at about 10-12 degrees advanced drop the dist back in it it will match the oil pump slot and will be able to start.

 

[Jp-15]

not sure you guys are understanding the problem. my fault. I have the motor at TDC #1 the dots are lined up, but the #8 exhaust lifter is up, pushing down on the rocker. Therefore if I were to use the motordaddy method, this one would go loose once I turned the crank 360*. Whats the problem? says i should beable to adjust it at this position. Do I need to take the chain off and go one full revolution, maybe it's TDC exhaust stroke on the #1 cylinder?

If I have the spark plug out and feel for the air to come out of the hole, will it do it on both the exhaust and compression stroke?

 

[trmnatr]

Dont do it that way, Exhaust opens adjust intake, intake goes to full lift then is inbetween full lift and closed adjust the exhaust then after fired up adjust with it running

 

[Schurkey]

There are TWO TDCs.

Top Dead Center of #1 cylinder for the Compression stroke

Top Dead Center of #1 cylinder for the Exhaust stroke.

With the cam dot at 6:00 and the crank dot at 12:00--so they line up directly across from one another--you're at TDC-Exhaust.

You WANT to be at TDC-Compression.

Turn the crank one turn, both dots will be at 12:00 and you'll be at TDC-Compression. Do NOT take the chain off.

Then your lifters will look like you expect.

All-in-all--Not a bit important for setting preload. The "MotorDaddy Method" will positively take care of that issue. However, having the crank at TDC-Compression will be very important for when you drop the distributor in.

 

[kettbo]

Schurkey, you said it better than I did in post #3:thumbsup:

 

[Jp-15]

oooo I get it now. Awesome. Thanks so much guys. 12 and 12 is the compression stroke. Now all I lack is finishin up. =-)

 

[kettbo]

oooo I get it now. Awesome. Thanks so much guys. 12 and 12 is the compression stroke. Now all I lack is finishin up. =-)

:hurray::hurray::hurray::hurray:

Bear in mind that the distributor gear when it hits your cam gear will move your rotor...so some trial and error IF you want your rotor pointing at the #1 cylinder.

Also remember that pesky oil pump drive will probably need to be turned a bit IF the distributor does not drop in all the way to the intake surface. Long flat-tip screwdriver will work...some bump the ign to get it to drop though I do not use this technique.

 

[trmnatr]

oooo I get it now. Awesome. Thanks so much guys. 12 and 12 is the compression stroke. Now all I lack is finishin up. =-)

No, If the crank dot is at 12'0 clock and the cam dot is at 6'0 clock your good, if the crank is at 12'0 clock and the dot on the cam is at 12'0 clock you are 180° out

 

[mr 4 speed]

..what Schurkey and George said