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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone see issue with powering both my kickdown switch and my choke off the same wire? I'm trying to keep wiring as clean as possible and one more wire ran is one more I have to hide. I am currently using the wiper motor circuit to power the choke (this car does not see rain)
 

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I think it's going to depend on WHERE you splice into the kickdown wire harness.

If you connect AFTER the switch, your choke only gets power when you stuff your foot into the throttle; and it still won't get much power 'cause the trans solenoid will be a ground.

Connecting before the kickdown switch should get you a source of ignition-switched power; ideally that power would be available in "run" but not in "crank". Perhaps the kickdown is wired like that. I'm not sure. Using power from the wiper motor seems to be a common source; and it is dead in "crank". The wiper also has the advantage of being on the correct side of the firewall, too.

I would also route power through an oil pressure switch so that the choke coil doesn't heat if the engine stalls.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No, with the picture I have in my head, I believe I've got the circuit so everything will run properly. My primary concern is overloading the circuit as I'm not sure of the amp draw involved with the choke and switch. I would assume that it is low with these particular components but I honestly don't know.

Currently I've got the choke wired from the wiper harness, where I spliced in a 15", 14 gauge wire from ignition hot to the choke. Somewhere between the wiper harness and the choke, I was going to splice in a 3" 14 gauge wire to the kick down switch.

Thanks for the input, electrical has never really been my strong point. At some point I do plan on new harness all around but for now I'm doing the best I can with what I got.:thumbsup:
 
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