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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is on a 69 chevelle frame off this past winter. I have a charging problem know. External regulator.I jumped the blue and brown on the regulator plug and measured the alternator=12.4v Should this be 16v?? Continuity on the regulator blue and white wire is good. I did the KOEO Thing;

KOEO
F=11
2=0
3=12.4
4=6.5

KOER
F==11
2=6.1
3=12.4
4=12.3

Regulator, Wells VR715 has good ground.Radiator support is grounded good. Other than these readings being wrong. Could there be something under the dash to cause this problem?
Been over a month on this.
Ron
 

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*From Peter F.*
F terminal - KOEO = #4 slight voltage KOER = 9-12V typically
#2 terminal - KOEO = 0V KOER = >3.2V
#3 terminal - KOEO = 12V KOER = 12V
#4 terminal - KOEO = F slight voltage KOER = 12V

F is high when the engine isn't running. I'd first get the alternator tested but guessing something is wrong with the Wells. No need to jump those wires. Be sure to install the Wells unit with the battery cable disconnected.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Alternator is 4 weeks old. now tried a different regulator with contacts Found it above the garage.

KOEO
F=3.75
2=0
3=12.46
4=3.75

KOER
F=3.61
2=2.40
3=12.3
4=3.40 now motor will not shut off and needle on volt gauge in car stayed around 12 before it was going up 13 to 14
Ron
 

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The first readings look OK but the terminal 3 voltage doesn't go up when it's running. 11V is applied to the F terminal and this should be making the alternator charge so it's producing a higher output voltage. When you jumpered the Blue wire to power did the alternator crank out 16 to 17V?


During the KOEO test the F terminal was higher than I would expect but the Wells regulator is electronic so it's likely working differently than the mechanical does. The alternator should have been charging if the F terminal is 11V.

What voltage is the alternator producing at 1000 rpm with the Wells regulator? Getting around 14V is generally considered working for those alternators.

During the mechanical regulator tests, the regulator never energized. Likely because terminal 2 didn't get to 3.2V. Put a test light to the terminal 4 of the regulator and see if it works here. I don't really know why the engine wouldn't shut off.

One other thing. Check that the blue and white wires are going to the right terminals at the alternator. I don't know which is which right now but I think they are marked. If not it shouldn't be too hard to find out with a search on the internet or hopefully someone else will chime in. The alternator is a 10-DN

Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The blue and white wires are correct on the alternator.

When i jumpered the the blue wire to alternator power= 12.8 to 13.4 around 1500 rpm.

With the wells and the mechanical regulator could not get above 13.6v or so at 1500 to 1800 rpm.
At 1000 rpm. Readings on both the regulators are around 12.2 to 12.4 About the same as battery.
Ron
 

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Sounds like the alternator to me. If you jumper the field right to power it should easily produce over 15V output when you rev it up a little. This would also explain why when the Wells was putting 11V on the field the alternator was hardly producing any output.

Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Had the alternator tested today at an alternator shop. He says there is nothing wrong with it. Works just fine. He said must be a bad regulator. Would be ok if I had the volts to wake it up and make it run.
You can post back. But I am done with this till next Tuesday.
Thanks to all. I will be back next week.
Ron
 

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Originally posted by Ron_Long:
When i jumpered the the blue wire to alternator power= 12.8 to 13.4 around 1500 rpm.
I consider this a failure. If you put the alternators field terminal right to battery power and hold 1500 rpms you should make about 16 or 17 volts.

The only reason the alternator wouldn't work during this test is if you have some higher current accessories running that are overloading the alternator.

Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Peter F. I have read so many post over the last month or so. I am confused and when it comes to electric thats not hard to do. You and John_Muha and others have been so much help with everyones electrical problems. My problem seems to be the same or close to everyone elses. I have about 30 pages printed out on such problems. Most solutions are Bad alternator, regulator, NSS, wire and ground.
In all the past post for test results for the blue wire to alternator jumper all show 16+ volts. Not mine. Shop tested it and it shows good. So at this point I am taking a break. Read some post and try and get this straight in my mind. IT'S only a 69 Chevelle. Where would my head be if it was a 96 model?? Guarentee it would be stuck up something to my neck instead of just to my ears.
Thanks guys I will be back next week.
Ron
 

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Ask the guy at the alternator shop if you can come over with the whole car. You did tell him that you tested it on the car and then explained how you did it and that the results were a failure. If he agrees to look at it then put it together and go over there.

One other thing. You are measuring the voltage right at the big output post on the back of the alternator? If you're measuring at the battery (or somewhere else) then it could be a problem somewhere in the main red wire going from the alternator to the horn relay and then to the battery. Didn't really think to ask this before.

Check wires by connecting a meter lead to each end while it's running. If you find a wire with over 0.5V measured then take a closer look at it.

Finally, you could just get a 10SI internally regulated alternator and re-wire for it and be done with this. Those alternators are cheap and very reliable. The wiring is simple to do too.

Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Perter F. and John_Muha... I think my problem is solved. I bought an engine harness to clean up the wiring and to solve another starting problem with starter. Starting problem is solved.
I bought a new voltage regulator from NPD at the same time. Installed it and still had the same problem with charging. I think I found the proplem why, when I jumped the F- blue wire to alternator and only got in the 12 volt range on the stud of alternator. I used an inpection mirrow and light and needle nose pliars and pluged the 2 wire connector to the alternator. Charging for now. I haven't driven it for a test yet.(Fouled plugs now)I think the blue wire was not in the plug right. With Dart heads and tall valve covers makes it tighter yet.
Thanks guys for all your help. I will drive it on wed. if weather is good. If something goes wrong. I will be back. Check out my other post for the trunk mounted battery???
Thanks again
 

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Mannn, I wish I had gotten in on this when it was all starting!, I have the same dog gone problem. Go to post-will battery smoke with no reg.

I jumped my field on my 72 Elky with bbc, full race package, to the 12v stud on alt and now it is charging, I also have a 105 amp alt. too, big pulley on crank, small on alt., Optima red top batt, will I smoke it for a 3 day drag race event?
I also have the Painless Wiring HI-Amp alt. cutout switch in series per instrucions for feed back and batt draw with main kill switch "ON DEE BUMPER MANN " off and I hear the solenoid click per switch change.

I'm really glad you guys did most of the leg work too, great comments, very, very helpful, sorry to have missed it, maybe I could have solved my problem and then helped lots of others!


Thanks again.
The Elkyman
O/C 9900
FSC/PRO Edelbrock series
 
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