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Discussion Starter #1
I know this has been written up on this site many times, but I have never actually seen any photos of the process- So Here is my little writeup with photos.

I think it would be of value to make this a sticky, and maybe combine in some other threads that have technical details on the swap into one place (like Jim's listing of the codes, and ID of the box by number of turns & pitman sweep angles, etc...

anyway... Feel free to correct anything i've got wrong here and or add to this.

Introduction

Jeep Grand Cherokee Steering Boxes from 1993-1997 are a direct bolt in to GM A-Body cars- they have an almost identical turning radius as the stock box, feature 12.7:1 ratio- 3 Turns lock to lock, and have a .195 T-bar

The larger the T-bar, the higher the steering effort.

Stock boxes have a ~.163 bar which leads to the "pinky steer" that is found on all old GM cars w/ power steering. Other High performance boxes like AGR, Feature a .210 T-bar!
The JGC Box is just one of many that are common steering box swaps for A-bodys- It is popular manily because of the correct turning radius (80's camaro & Monte Carlo boxes have a reduced turning radius when used in a 60's A-body) and because they are really easy to find, and are inexpensive in wrecking yards.

This one came out of a 1997 Grand Cherokee with 75k miles on it, and cost $45 at a Pull-a-Part.


Things that must be changed/dealt with to swap are..

Metric Input shaft Ragjoint & Metric O-ring lines.


I bought a Kit From Lee Engineering which came with the correct Ragjoint and a set of Flared Seat Adapters so i can reuse my original lines. I think it was about $60

I have heard that the ragjoint is also the same as late 70's GM trucks and can be had in the HELP section at the parts store for about $15.

You can also buy later power steering lines for an 80's car that use the O-Ring seats and convert over your pump to the O-ring fitting- I just chose not to do that.

The stock SAE lines thread into the metric holes on the box without problem- so as long as you have the flare seat adapters it will seal as the original one did.

Pitman arms are different, so you will need to rent/buy a pitman arm puller to remove your stock arm & the jeeps arm.

I did this on the car in both cases. WIth the STock box in place, used a breaker bar to remove the output shaft nut- then Pitman puller Tightened it up as far as it would go- whacked the back of the putman arm with a 5lb sledge, then kepth tightening the puller and it came off like butter.

Did the same thing on the JGC box at the end after I installed in on my car.

The new ragjoint I got from lee had two different sized bolt holes that go into the steering collumn shaft. My old one they were the same size, so i had to drill out one of them. Be sure to center your steering wheel and the steering box shaft first so you know which hole to drill! I talked to a couple others who've done this swap and they did not have to do that- so its possible its a 1966 and earlier thing only.


Installing the flare seat adapters was a peice of cake. You can see in the pics below what the stock box looked like vs the JGC box to start with.

Make sure you have the right one (pressure one is slightly larger than the return)
get a 1/4" bolt and nut to use as a set- Carefully put it into the bore- then tap it with a hammer

Thats it. Now install the box, reconnect your lines, Swap the A-body pitman arm over, and bleed your box and you are ready to drive.

...unforunatly i still have a disk brake swap to complete before i can give a road report on mine- but in the meantime here are a bunch of pics.

:)

Stock Box:







Jeep Grand Cherokee Box:




Stock Boxes Flared Seats:


JGC Box O-Ring Seats:


Lee Engineering Flare Seat adapters:
 

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Premium Member
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27,698 Posts
Good stuff Ben! :thumbsup:
FYI...as an alternate source, the rag joint needed in this conversion can also be bought from Advance Auto...Lares #200...SKU #18340125 for approx $30.
 

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272 Posts
That is a great write up! I have the JGC box, Lee Adapters, and Lares Rag Joint ready to go. This will help alot. You seemed to skip over your prime and paint process. Did you use the rustoleum primer? Then what paint did you use? It Looks Good. Also what is the bleeding process?

Please excuse the ignorance........
 

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Bleeding it is pretty easy. Add 1 pint of PS fluid, put the cap on and start the car and turn the steering wheel lock to lock back and forth a few times. You will feel some resistance at first, just keep moving the wheel back and forth until the resistance is gone...think in terms or when you are trying to wiggle a piece of metal back and forth to make it break off...same principle. Add PS fluid until the level stabilizes on the dipstick.
 

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1971 El camino 454 4 Speed
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I was reading about this set up in the Jan 2009 Car Craft...
They have the listing for the box as '92 - '98 Jeep Grand Cherokee, Are they right about this?
If so that gives everyone two extra year's to look for?


 

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I'm just finishing up my conversion. Some of it was a pain, but not too terrible. I went a slightly different route, but basically the same.

Used a steering box from a 98 JGC which bolted right in.

My PS pump was shot, so I got a pump with the brackets from an 80's sbc Camaro. This worked out great, since it has the metric ends with the o rings, all I had to do was order the matching high pressure. It is a tiny bit tight, but fits. Now I just have to get a different ps belt and hope nothing leaks.

Ragjoint from Advance that was labeled 69-86 Ch truck. I probably could have reused my old one, but it was pretty ragged looking. That was the most expensive part.

JGC box $65
PS pump/brackets $35
Ragjoint $75
84 Camaro power steering hose $17

Also had to buy a few tools.

Hopefully everything will work and not leak. Then just to figure out how to get the steering wheel straight again.
 
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