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Well its only taken me 2 years to get working on this project.I got the Jesel Sportsman Series shaft rockers from Mike "Wolfplace" Lewis,along with an adjustable pushrod length checker,then last year I got a pre-set LSM torque wrench,also from Mike.Then over the past winter Mike got me a set of Manton Series 5 custom length 3/8 0.140 thick wall pushrods.I just got my car out from winter storage a week or so ago,and started my install yesterday.It was time consuming rounding up the necessary tools,lubricants & sealers,but I'm not in a hurry.Started off with things not looking too good,then I realised that the stands were on upside down.The LSM wrench sure makes it easy to set the valve lash,and theres no worries about over tightening the adjuster nut.Heres a few pics;





I finished the left side this afternoon,and will do the other side over the weekend.Hardest part was getting the rocker arm studs off.My deep socket wasnt deep enough,and its pretty much impossible to get a wrench on it,so I had to double nut the suckers,what a PITA LOL
But I did start it up after doing the one side and everything sounds good !!! Mike has supplied a lot of my valvetrain,including the Isky EZ Roll lifters.
Thanks Mike !!!
Guy
 

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That looks sexy there Guy.
 

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Ohhh... I gots to have me one of them LSM torque wrenches. Been needing to order some stuff from Mike anyhow :D
Thanks for posting this Guy.
 

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That LSM is great. Got mine from Mike also.
 

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May be problem with height on adjusting screws,

looks like too much difference?

Harry P Hunter
X2 ...... where did you start with the adjustes in rocker body I know they say bolt on but in most cases you need to check for even boss height ,shim or machine ....... typically you can almost set lash with exposed thread count showing above adjuster all the same .... when they set up right ........unless something changed with the Jesels been awhile since I did mine ..... but it was not bolt on !!
 

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X2 ...... where did you start with the adjustes in rocker body I know they say bolt on but in most cases you need to check for even boss height ,shim or machine ....... typically you can almost set lash with exposed thread count showing above adjuster all the same .... when they set up right ........unless something changed with the Jesels been awhile since I did mine ..... but it was not bolt on !!
Correct, still the same, those adjusters are in the wrong position. May affect oil supply?

Harry P Hunter
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm not sure on the adjusters being in the wrong place or not,I was looking for the arms being centered & a good pattern,both of which I think I have acheived.
And according to Jesel,you can go up to 1/4 - 2 turns out from the seated position,and I am within those parameters,AFAIK.In the Warning section of the installation instructions,there is no mention of the possibility of reduced oil supply.Here is a link to Jesel's instructions;
http://www.jesel.com/innovation/instructions.html
Guy
 

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Setting up/chasing the "pattern" on the valve tips using shaft rockers is not connected to pushrod length, the stands are either left "as-is", shimmed, or machined, until the desired pattern is evident!!

The pushrod length is then configured with the lash considered!

All the adjusting screw heights should be relatively equal, at least to the point between the intakes and the exhaust's, in short, the intakes at least should all be the same and the exhaust's likewise!

Many variables MAY come into play here, valve tip heights, etc.

(Add) The "ideal" adjuster position is 2 turns "down" from the seated position and best with the lash figured in! Most we've seen here leave about 2 to 3 threads showing above the locknuts!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. We just went a "round-or-two" with some T&D BB shaft rockers where we had to "tilt" the stands some .002" to maintain "squareness" on the valve tips. The "problem" was found after some run-time when we received the heads for freshen-up. Sometimes (most times), as mentioned above, these shaft setups are NOT a bolt on deal, and more care needs to be taken than conventional roller rockers/girdles!
 

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Gary, we have run into angularity problems with the stand angle also. The "tilt" had to be corrected to get a full pattern on the valve as you mentioned. Milling the heads or stands is difficult and often specific per each location. How do you correct the wrong "tilt"?
 

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Setting up/chasing the "pattern" on the valve tips using shaft rockers is not connected to pushrod length, the stands are either left "as-is", shimmed, or machined, until the desired pattern is evident!!

The pushrod length is then configured with the lash considered!

All the adjusting screw heights should be relatively equal, at least to the point between the intakes and the exhaust's, in short, the intakes at least should all be the same and the exhaust's likewise!

Many variables MAY come into play here, valve tip heights, etc.

(Add) The "ideal" adjuster position is 2 turns "down" from the seated position and best with the lash figured in! Most we've seen here leave about 2 to 3 threads showing above the locknuts!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. We just went a "round-or-two" with some T&D BB shaft rockers where we had to "tilt" the stands some .002" to maintain "squareness" on the valve tips. The "problem" was found after some run-time when we received the heads for freshen-up. Sometimes (most times), as mentioned above, these shaft setups are NOT a bolt on deal, and more care needs to be taken than conventional roller rockers/girdles!

That's the problem I had with my shaft rockers. I tried to get the desired pattern with push rod length and left the stands as is.

It caused the wrong valve train geometry and I ended up replacing all the valve guides because of it.

Lesson learned the hard way. I ended up selling the shaft rockers and going back to stud mounted rockers.

Thats what I get for thinking I knew what I was doing. I understand how to do it now.

BTW this was also on a set of Brodix RR heads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ohhh... I gots to have me one of them LSM torque wrenches. Been needing to order some stuff from Mike anyhow :D
Thanks for posting this Guy.

Mike that LSM wrench was a bit pricey,but well worth it.It sure makes it a lot easier to set lash.
Guy
 

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That's the problem I had with my shaft rockers. I tried to get the desired pattern with push rod length and left the stands as is.

It caused the wrong valve train geometry and I ended up replacing all the valve guides because of it.

Lesson learned the hard way. I ended up selling the shaft rockers and going back to stud mounted rockers.

Thats what I get for thinking I knew what I was doing. I understand how to do it now.

BTW this was also on a set of Brodix RR heads.

Ouch !! tough lesson .....yes thats my understanding of how to do it set up the stands first to achieve the pattern .thats where the fun begins .machining / shims etc .....I used checker springs in both valves on #1 and an adjustable pushrod to figure out correct pushrod length .......I did not order pushrods until everything set up correct ......... I was not smart enough to know what length to order before going thru that process

IMHO ....shaft rockers should be set up with the heads off the motor ......
 

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Hey Guy ..if you think the LSM lash adjuster tool is cool ........ step up and get the LSM on head valve spring removal tool for shaft rockers ....... now "that" is a cool tool .......makes you want to change springs just to use the tool :)
 

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Mike that LSM wrench was a bit pricey,but well worth it.It sure makes it a lot easier to set lash.
Guy
Thanks Guy, I checked out their web site and saw the pricing. I think it would pay for itself the first couple times I use it. Nothin like havin the right tool for the job :thumbsup: Think I'm gonna have Mike pick me up one when I order the Manton's. Thinkin that SC-200 Valve Spring Removal Tool would be a wise investment as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The main reason I bought the LSM wrench was because someone had posted about the problems they were having with breakage on their Jesel's,and the probable cause was thought to be overtightening of the adjuster assembly,and IIRC,Mike had posted about these wrenches,and how they eliminated any possibility of overtightening.And yes,I believe it will pay for itself,it sure beats the heck out of trying to use a wrench & an allen key to set lash.And that spring removal tool sure is a nice looking tool.
Guy
 

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Ohhh... I gots to have me one of them LSM torque wrenches. Been needing to order some stuff from Mike anyhow
Thanks for posting this Guy.
Just happen to have a couple sitting here looking for a new home :cool:
I keep a few in stock because it seems almost every time I use mine on the dyno if the customer is here he wants it :D

That & the spring tool, kind of nice to have both hands free when changing springs,,, nice stuff ;)

Guy
The adjusters are not way off, you are correct they should be from about a quarter turn to 2 turns & they will vary especially with stock heads or heads that have had less than ideal valve work.

Also, as Gary posted, all the intake & all the exhaust should be close to the same.
Unless the valves or stand pads are not at the same height.
If the stem heights (or stand pad) vary it can really cause issues not noticed with stud mount rockers
And again as he stated, pushrod length has nothing to do with the rocker geometry on the valve side it is set by trunion height.

Shaft rockers are very picky about all this stuff & with the Sportsman set if the stand height is off by much at all Jesel will exchange them for a shorter or taller set as long as they are as new
 

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Hey Guy ..if you think the LSM lash adjuster tool is cool ........ step up and get the LSM on head valve spring removal tool for shaft rockers ....... now "that" is a cool tool .......makes you want to change springs just to use the tool :)
In my best Tim Allen voice "come on b!tch break something" I saw one of his comedy shows. That line had me rolling..... I will end up with the wrench, spring remover and the spring tester in my box.
 

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The main reason I bought the LSM wrench was because someone had posted about the problems they were having with breakage on their Jesel's,and the probable cause was thought to be overtightening of the adjuster assembly,and IIRC,Mike had posted about these wrenches,and how they eliminated any possibility of overtightening.And yes,I believe it will pay for itself,it sure beats the heck out of trying to use a wrench & an allen key to set lash.And that spring removal tool sure is a nice looking tool.
Guy
I missed that thread but I sure am glad you mentioned it. Just one more reason to pick one up. Didn't know this torque wrench existed until you posted it.

I know Mike had to order different stands when he did my engine and I've read about how finicky the Jesel's are to set up initially. Hoping I don't run into any problems when I switch out the push rods. Anticipating everything to go well since the lengths will be the same.
 
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