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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 67 Malibu that came with an older after market steering wheel. It also came with the original steering wheel as well. I decided to clean up the original and put it back on the car. I got the other wheel off, the plate adapter and the nut. As you can see in the photos there is this silver cylinder in the way of mounting the original steering wheel back on. I’m guessing this is not actually part of the column and is the rest of the adapter, right? If this is the case.....how does it come off? It seems absolutely fused to the column.

if anyone has any insight I would appreciate it!

693879
693880
 

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Use a steering wheel puller. Two of those holes should be threaded.
 
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the line on the steering shaft should be at the 12 o clock position when the wheels are straight
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Right a puller is probably required, you can rent them for cheap. Those wheel adapters can be wiggled off without one right about next to never.
I got a cheap one at Canadian Tire for under $20, worked like a damn.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
E4C6133C-B370-4C5D-A30D-49DB6D1D1F56.jpeg

Thanks for the tips everyone, I picked up a cheap puller and popped that thing off in 2 minutes, here’s a pic with the old wheel back on. My garage is really dark, pardon the lighting.

Basically I lined it up and just tightened the nut until it wouldn’t go down further but I’m starting to think I didn’t do it quite right.

I took a quick video of how close the steering wheel is against the assembly, you can hear it rubbing. I think it’s still totally drivable but it was a bit too late to fire it up and wake the neighbours. I’m curious how it feels with the power steering.

Does this seem normal?

Also, the horn button is not clicking after I screwed it down. Feels like everything is a touch tight.
 

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69 Malibu 5.3, 4L80E
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Hello Colbs
There should be space between the wheel and jacket
It would appear the retainer for the upper steering shaft bearing may be out of place. I have attached a scan from the manual. Part #3 is the retainer that fits in a groove in the steering shaft.
Remove the wheel again and check the washers and snap ring are in place. You may have to push or pull the steering shaft up in the mast jacket to get the washers and retainer in place.
After that there should be correct clearance.
For the horn the spring pate may be upside down
 

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Just rebuilt my 68 column. (67/68 are almost identical)
This is what it looks like from the top.

Top End Parts
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Spring/Wave Washer

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Flat Washer, Notice the groove for the C Clip washer
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Retaining Clip
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Looks like three bolt holes
Those three are where the aftermarket wheel bolts on. There are two others that are directly opposite of each other that I was referencing.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Wow, thanks for the photos, that helps and makes perfect sense. I trust all the parts are still in tact, nothing looked tampered with but I'll find out later this evening.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hello Colbs
There should be space between the wheel and jacket
It would appear the retainer for the upper steering shaft bearing may be out of place. I have attached a scan from the manual. Part #3 is the retainer that fits in a groove in the steering shaft.
Remove the wheel again and check the washers and snap ring are in place. You may have to push or pull the steering shaft up in the mast jacket to get the washers and retainer in place.
After that there should be correct clearance.
For the horn the spring pate may be upside down
Thanks for the info and the scan, very useful. I will give this a go this evening. (y)
 

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Those three are where the aftermarket wheel bolts on. There are two others that are directly opposite of each other that I was referencing.
Ah ha, MY BAD, must be the two larger holes then since they are the only ones directly across from each other.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So I took the top of the steering column apart to see what was going on.

1.) It's pretty rusty and dirty.
2.) Notice the pile of springs on the bottom which don't seem to be doing much of anything.
3.) There are two mangled flat washers and I found two pieces of the c-clip. The rest of it....who knows.

So this has seen better days. I'm now wondering if the after market wheel was put on because of the state of these parts.

What would you guys do? Hopefully that c-clip is a standardized part I can order.




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This seems fine.
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Yikes.
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Here we have the two 'flat' washers and all that remains of the c-clip.

693949
 

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Looks like there was an issue with the top retainer as we thought (the two small chunks), but you went further into the column then you needed too?
Looking at the last picture Ed had from his 68 was as far as you had to go, and that's what the parts should have looked like.
No worries though, just assemble that top bearing and jacket cover back together, referencing my scan
You will need to find a top washer and retainer, then you should be good.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Looks like there was an issue with the top retainer as we thought (the two small chunks), but you went further into the column then you needed too?
Looking at the last picture Ed had from his 68 was as far as you had to go, and that's what the parts should have looked like.
No worries though, just assemble that top bearing and jacket cover back together, referencing my scan
You will need to find a top washer and retainer, then you should be good.
Yea, I was looking for the remains of the retainer, I'm a bit confused as to where it went. I'll have it back together tonight and I may already have a lead on some replacement parts. (y)
 

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The 67-68 A body column shares many parts with the same year Camaro/Corvette columns. There are two items that are hard to find and those are the upper and lower bearing assemblies. There are a few Corvette/Camaro vendors that sell remanufactured lower bearings which run on the average of $125. The upper bearing assembly is very difficult to locate and the price for one reflects that. I gave up after six months of looking for an NOS assembly and rebuilt my own. Of course as soon as I had the column reassembled, one pops up on Epay. :rolleyes:
Those springs hold the turn signal switch and upper head assembly to the column tube locking plate. The switch screws do not need to removed when replacing the switch. Just three complete turns to loosen, push and twist the bowl assembly CCW IIRC to remove from the column. Its all very evident once removed. The complete details are in the Service manual.

Total cost for me to rebuild my column was about $160. And 67-68 replacement columns are higher priced than the 69-72 or 64-66 columns.

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