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I got a nice plastic dash bezel with the wagon project and it has what appears to be a useable ignition lock but I didn't get the key with it. Is there any way to safely remove the lock cylinder without destroying it or the dash bezel?
 

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Rich if it's your 65, try a 12 point socket
1 1/4" I beleive, with a peice of rubber or
something that won't scracth the bezel nut.
Two people work best, one to hold the ign.
swicth and one on the socket.
hope this helps bob
 

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I'm in the same boat. Is the process to just try and force the nut off the switch past the key portion? :confused:
 

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Originally posted by MedicTed:
I'm in the same boat. Is the process to just try and force the nut off the switch past the key portion? :confused:
If you have door locks, pop one of those out and get a key made.
 

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It's on a dash that I bought to replace the one in my car. No key is available. :( Anyone have any ideas? Thanks.
 

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That's what I figured. I was just hoping for a short cut. Thanks.
 

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Another question for the electrical gurus. I've been chasing electrical problems. I have a 64 Malibu convertible. I have replaced the dash, engine and front lamp harnesses with ones from another car. The replacement harnesses appeared to be in excelent condition, except that they were apparentlt from a 300. They appear to have wiring for a single speed wiper and had no back up lights.
I have been chasing turn signal problems. I have confirmed that the switch is good, that the flasher is good, and that the wiring appears good. I have done this by making jumper wires and making temporary alternate circuits. The last thing that I did was to jump across the ignition plug from the power to the accessory. Wala, the turn signals worked, and I had indicator lights, which was a new and novel thing.
Is my assumption that I have a bad ignition switch a valid assumption? Thanks.
 

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Originally posted by MedicTed:
Is my assumption that I have a bad ignition switch a valid assumption? Thanks.
Well I'm far from an electrical guru and that sounds right but *maybe* it could be that they are connected to a circuit that is not hot during ignition "RUN" position.

Do they work when the ignition is in the "ACC" position?
 

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Not entirely making sense. Where did you jump across? Brown on the ignition switch is the ACC wire. Brown/pink is the RUN wire. The dash lamps are powered by the brown/pink wire along with power to coil (+).
If you can start the engine then you have power to the brown/pink.
 

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I'll have to look when I get home. I removed the switch and made a jumper to go across the plug. I thought that it was the accessory but it may have been the run.
 

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Re-read it again. You said indicator lights, not dash lights so that does make sense. Guessing you jumped to the brown.
Brown should be hot in either RUN or ACC. Should be able to see 12 volts to ground on the ACC terminal of the fuseblock when the key is turned.
Brown powers the top 3 fuses in the fuseblock along with the flasher can.
Also not sure where your back-up light connector wandered off to. It should be there. The harness may not have a NSS connector if it came from a manual car.
In 64 the 2-speed wiper used an optional wiper harness. M & H has them.
 

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I took a '69 steering column to a locksmith and he made a key without disassembling anything. $23 and I got two new keys as well. They have their ways.
 

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It had a connector for the NSS, but not one for the back up lights. Also, thr connector to the ribbon did not have a wire or connector for the back up lights. The hole was cavered with the rubber sealant
that GM used. I had to take a wire from my old harness with a connector, clean out the "new" connector, and put the wire in it. What a PITA.
 

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Dean, the answer on 64 is yes, so I'm guessing for 65 also.
 

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Can someone tell me how to drill out a 64 ignition lock, so I can get the lock out without a key? Thanks.
 
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