This is off topic,but I just bought some bigger A/T tires for my 2002 Chevy Z71. This truck is completely stock and has never been off road. It still has all the factory stickers on the under body! I don't plan to off-road it either, but I did tighten up the torsion bars to level it out. I am bringing it Monday for an alignment. I know there are a few 4-wheel drive folks here and I need to know if the suspension is safe with the keys turned all the way up. The handling didn't change, so I am not noticing any unsafe signs of problems. I just want to get a few other opinions before I have it aligned. Thanks guys.
Is It Ok To Turn The Torsion Rod Keys All The Way Up On A Z71?
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My main concern is prematurely wearing out front-end parts. I talked to my alignment guy today and he said he can align it correctly, I just don't want to wear anything out by picking it up with the keys.
I did it. Well on the passenger side anyways. You know, because banana shaped torsion bars. Cranking the stock bars isnt any different than buying lift keys. Lift keys just reclock and allow you to put more stress on them. Alignment is no issue. And all of front end parts are original at 120k miles (except bearings).
Pic for proof
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Pic for proof
I didnt. Very evident how much length is left when I jack up to put on the winter skins. But 1/2 ton Zs are different than 3/4ton trucks. And they didnt become HDs until '01.
Short answer...Yes.
Like said, definitely get an alignment. I had trouble with my MOOG idler arm prematurely wearing out with just a leveling kit on it for some reason. Ended up buying a pitman arm/idler arm support system from a (horrible customer service) place called Incognito Motorsports, but it did cure the problem. I went through 2 idler arms in 2 years, and have been 3 years and counting on the 3rd one now with the kit installed. This is a truck that has never been off roaded FWIW.
However, FWIW, I would have either bought, traded, or found someone w/some leveling keys to swap on. You can find them used for $50 or less, usually. Cranking the stockers up inevitably also makes the ride stiffer and probably bouncier. Yes, you get the look, but the ride suffers.
With leveling keys you are not putting anymore tension on the torsion bars to get the lift, but still getting the lift and the look due to the re-clocking of the torsion bars, via the keys. When you re-clock a torsion bar using leveling keys, you are raising the suspension up due to a different position of the hex of the key, thus turning the torsion bar without any added tension, hence the stock ride. When you crank the stock keys, you are twisting/loading the torsion bar to achieve that same amount of lift. Adding tension by way of this "twisting" also adds stiffness, which is how it "lifts" the truck up...What this means is that it is impossible to get the same lift without ride quality being diminished in some amount...period. Anyone who claims different, simply has no idea how a torsion bar works. :beers:
Anyway, I had the very inexpensive ($200) Rough Country leveling kit (keys, shocks, rear spacer and u-bolts) on my 2002 Z-71 and it rode better than stock. Since removed due to us not having enough snow anymore to worry about it...I'm actually lowered now...
http://www.roughcountry.com/chevy_4wd_99-06_leveling_kit.php
Here's my (de-badged and de-chromed) 2002 Z71 with that kit (and 33x12.5x16.5 BFG's) installed:
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and here it is a week ago....(w/plasti-dipped bumpers, grill, mirrors, etc.) with stock keys back in, 2" lowering spindles, rear spacer block removed, and 2" lowering shackles...handles and rides like a dream, and trailers the Chevelle just fine. :thumbsup: I purposely left out a good profile shot due to the truck getting side-swiped a few days before we took the car to the beach.
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Like said, definitely get an alignment. I had trouble with my MOOG idler arm prematurely wearing out with just a leveling kit on it for some reason. Ended up buying a pitman arm/idler arm support system from a (horrible customer service) place called Incognito Motorsports, but it did cure the problem. I went through 2 idler arms in 2 years, and have been 3 years and counting on the 3rd one now with the kit installed. This is a truck that has never been off roaded FWIW.
However, FWIW, I would have either bought, traded, or found someone w/some leveling keys to swap on. You can find them used for $50 or less, usually. Cranking the stockers up inevitably also makes the ride stiffer and probably bouncier. Yes, you get the look, but the ride suffers.
With leveling keys you are not putting anymore tension on the torsion bars to get the lift, but still getting the lift and the look due to the re-clocking of the torsion bars, via the keys. When you re-clock a torsion bar using leveling keys, you are raising the suspension up due to a different position of the hex of the key, thus turning the torsion bar without any added tension, hence the stock ride. When you crank the stock keys, you are twisting/loading the torsion bar to achieve that same amount of lift. Adding tension by way of this "twisting" also adds stiffness, which is how it "lifts" the truck up...What this means is that it is impossible to get the same lift without ride quality being diminished in some amount...period. Anyone who claims different, simply has no idea how a torsion bar works. :beers:
Anyway, I had the very inexpensive ($200) Rough Country leveling kit (keys, shocks, rear spacer and u-bolts) on my 2002 Z-71 and it rode better than stock. Since removed due to us not having enough snow anymore to worry about it...I'm actually lowered now...
http://www.roughcountry.com/chevy_4wd_99-06_leveling_kit.php
Here's my (de-badged and de-chromed) 2002 Z71 with that kit (and 33x12.5x16.5 BFG's) installed:
and here it is a week ago....(w/plasti-dipped bumpers, grill, mirrors, etc.) with stock keys back in, 2" lowering spindles, rear spacer block removed, and 2" lowering shackles...handles and rides like a dream, and trailers the Chevelle just fine. :thumbsup: I purposely left out a good profile shot due to the truck getting side-swiped a few days before we took the car to the beach.
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276 Posts
I threw a kit in my 2000 silverado mostly for plowing and clearence. The kit I purchased was basically ford keys that clock at a slightly different location, and larger blocks for the rear. Basically gave me 2.5 inches extra in the rear, and just around 5.5 in the front. (3 inches to level to match the rear @ stock location and 2.5 to match the new lift). I had it aligned, and have driven the snot out of it, with only normal wear and tear on components (over 100k miles and i've had to replace 2 tie rods, 1 idler arm, and 2 ball joints). Stock shocks still fit perfectly fine too.
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Just watch your CV shaft angles. How hard you drive your truck will determine how long your front end parts last.
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877 Posts
Normal???? My last truck, a `96 GMC Sierra 4x4 had 263,000 miles on it when I sold it and it still had all the original suspension on it and showed no signs of weakness.
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I was going to say, I am a professional mechanic and I can't rember doing a single tie rod end on a Chevy truck with less than 200k all year.
Norfolk N' Way you got 5 1/2" out of Ford keys and havent been blowing through CVs. These trucks are not designed to go 5 1/2" up without a diff drop.
What size tires did you go with? The '05 Avalanche I had, ran 285-60/20, then 275/55-20 with room to spare. Rear I left stock height (at one point I ran lowering springs with air bags). Front end,from my experience, you could run the adjuster +/- 3/4" at the key and not see tire wear. Gave it a range of +/- 1.5" at the tires.
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276 Posts
Maybe I should have specified that I did this to my truck at 91,000 miles, and now it has 195,000 miles, and i'm pretty sure I did specify that I plow with this, and my plow is just under 820 lbs. So considering these facts, i'm not going to complain.
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276 Posts
yeah, I DID.
If you looked at my truck when I purchased it, it had the typical NON Z71 rake to it, front was quite a bit lower. I love how some folks on here just have to argue and disagree with everything and anything. I do have pictures of when I bought it and how it sits now. Do I need to load pictures to prove it? REALLY?
I'm also running the stock size 265 75 16's for the winter for plowing, and I picked up some cheap aftermarket wheels for the summer with cooper zeon tires that are 275 55 20's..
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