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I'm planning to change the color of the bucket seat interior in my '70 Coupe from Dark Green to Black. This will require changing nearly everything. :(

So I don't get caught mid project trying to find something, I'm trying to figure out what things are not available from the repro companies and/or are hard to come by.

For example, I found the seat belts in the catalogs, but so far I haven't found the shoulder harnesses. And they sell the single plastic console pockets for the clasps, but not doubles for each side.

What else is there that I should be watching the classifieds for over the next year, or so?? What about all the moldings around the headliner?

I'd sure appreciate any heads up on parts issues and/or advice!

Thanks for the help!!

Andy

Andy
 

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I am doing the exact same thing right now....'70 from green to black. The mouldings for the headliner are available. Try Ground Up or OPG....
I don't recall seeing the shoulder harness anywhere and I was just looking at the console belt holders and do not recall seeing the double type. I'm lucky to have all my seat belts and all I need to do is dye them black. E-mail me if you have any questions and I will try to help. :cool:
 

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The shoulder harnesses are a hard to find item. Most sets that you see at swapmeets are only the seat belt sets. Best bet is to find a junker because they are usually left behind. I believe they are now selling the headliner trim. Wasn't 2 years ago. The double seat belt clips you can usually find at swapmeets.
 

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When I replaced the headliner this past summer, I choose not to re-install the shoulder harness assembly in my black interior '70. Figured it would interfere with the soon-to-be installed roll bar.
If interested in them, drop me a line...

Jody...where you been???
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Jody/Bill/Bill

Thanks for the info! I'm learning as I go - and I just found out more about dying parts - even plastic parts!

My car is reasonably complete inside, with the harnesses, plastic pockets, moldings, good dash pad, etc. The problem is they're all green. I just learned that all these parts can be dyed at a substantial cost savings and dying things black is probably easiest of all with the best chances for a good result!!

So, right now, I'm planning to re-use as much of my stuff as possible since it's all in good shape!

Thanks for the help on this. If anyone has had any experiences with dyed interior parts - good or bad - I'd be interested in hearing about them!! I'm especially interested in durability/fading issues over a long period of time.

Thanks again!!


Andy
 

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Originally posted by LS_5:
If anyone has had any experiences with dyed interior parts - good or bad - I'd be interested in hearing about them!! I'm especially interested in durability/fading issues over a long period of time.
Te kickpanels and dash pad of my 66 were dyed/painted black. The pad was originally gold and the kickpanels were burgandy. I didn't do the work and have no idea what product(s) was/were used and I can say this: The dashpad is holding up quite well, espcially since it is a convertible. I'm amazed that there is no detectible fading or changes in color over the past 4 years. The kickpanels are a different story though, likely because they are constantly getting rubbed byt he outside edge of shoes, etc. whereas the dash is basically left alone.
The difference could be the location, the prep, the conditio of the material to begin with, the product used, or a combination of any of these factors. I touch them up every year or so and that's good enough for me.
+++
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the reply, Dan. I'm having someone else do mine, too. I'll be sure to ask about the kick panels or other areas that might get rubbed.

To be honest, I've never heard of dyeing plastic parts before - especially what appear to me to be hard plastic parts (kick panels, headliner moldings, etc.). I would have thought they weren't porous enough to take dye and that, if the color was changed, you'd have to paint them. But I'm told there's lots of good products out there to do the trick, without having to paint and subject yourself to peeling parts.

Thanks for the heads-up, Dan. I really appreciate it!!

Andy
 

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LS-5 plastic parts can be painted very easliy if you have the RIGHT paint or dye and most important the PROPER PREP.

Ill go with the PPG route, since am a PPG fan and know it best of all products. Allpaint manufacturs will have products just like PPG.

Ok PPG has a paint called DBI, its their interior paint. Not what Id use so if you go a PPG store and this is what they recommend then Id pass. Its ok for hard plastic that WONT be near any abuse, like a dash but not for kick panels.

What I have used on a few cars including my 02 Chrylser LHS which I did a COMPLETE color change did a two tone :eek: is use PPG SB elastomeric color dye. The dy works with leather, carpet and hard plastic, vinyl and some convert tops.

this is right from PPG, to do vinyl do the plastic prep process but DONT use the plastic adhesion promotor, so you skip step 3. Also instead of the plastic prep sx1004 use sx1003 which is the vinyl prep. I CANT STRESS THIS ENOUGH YOU GOT TO MAKE THE SUBSTRATE CLEAN AS POSSIBLE.

The One thing Ill change or two things is first wash with soapy water dry and then do step 1. Also you dont need a clear coat for this dye, you can apply if wanted, have flat and gloss.

Make sure you USE all the prep products DONT SKIP THEM, also both the prep cleaner and adhesion promotor are avaible in spray bomb form also. It comes in a quart can part number sx1004 but for spray bomb the number is sxa1004. Good luck...Eric

Plastic
1. Clean first with soap and water and a gray scuff pad. Surface should be scuffed
thoroughly with extra attention to textured surfaces until surface is clean and rinsed
with water.
Note: If contamination still exists after the cleaning process, water will bead on the
surface. Repeat process until beading no longer occurs.
2. Clean thoroughly with SX1004 Plastic Cleaner and Prep using a clean, lint free
towel and wiping in one direction only. Rinse with water and dry.
3. Apply 1 light coat, followed by 1 full coat of SX1050 Plastic Adhesion Promoter
to promote adhesion on TPO, EPDM, PP and similar thermoplastics, allowing 5-10
minutes between coats.
4. Allow to flash between coats 10-15 minutes, but no more than 30 minutes
before topcoating.
5. Topcoat with Elastomeric Color System using 20-25 psi from conventional
equipment or 8-10 psi at the cap from HVLP equipment, apply one medium wet
coat followed by one full wet coat allowing 5-10 minutes flash time between coats.
6. For SB10/SB11 Elastomeric Clears, apply 2 medium wet coats allowing 5-10
minutes flash time between coats.
7. The Elastomeric Color System can be re-coated within 24 hours without
additional surface preparation. Blow off all lint or dirt and re-coat. Although film is
dry to the touch, it should not be subjected to heavy abuse or abrasion for 24 hours.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Geez, Eric. THANKS for the info!!
Talk about a complete "how to" list.

I'm printing it out and keeping it for when the time comes!

Thanks again!!


Andy
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hey Guys. Two more related questions.

Would you all consider dyeing a console base - or is it the same problem as the kick panels?? It comes into contact with people too much. and,

Since mine is green and needs to go to black, and the metal accents are pretty scratched up from 33 years of use, I'm seriously thinking about just buying a new one from Ground Up. Any opinions on aftermarket vs. original dyed?

Thanks again!

Andy
 
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