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I've been searching for this loud squeak for some tome now. Short of a long story, both front inner fenders down behind the tires, rub frame pretty substantially. I don't know if they can be bend without making a mess? Shims where they bolt to the body? FYI, fenders and inners are GM replacements I bought at Dobles Chevrolet years ago.
 

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I've been searching for this loud squeak for some tome now. Short of a long story, both front inner fenders down behind the tires, rub frame pretty substantially. I don't know if they can be bend without making a mess? Shims where they bolt to the body? FYI, fenders and inners are GM replacements I bought at Dobles Chevrolet years ago.
Kirk, was this a frame off? Did you replace body bushings? My drivers side was touching (and was from the factory) and I just bent it out on the lower edge but don't use pliers or it will look ugly. Is it possible your frame is a hair too far forward. Depending on the year most frame/floors have an alignment pin location. In that area you are talking about the frame bolts to the body so movement should minimal unless you have old body bushings or they are not torqued down to spec.
 

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IIRC some of the buick, olds, and Monte Carlos i've stripped had some insulation on the back side of the inner fender well;
so the insulation was between the frame and fender assy... >:)
 

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Here is what I do know. I have a one owner 70 SS 454/M-22 Camino. When I did my frame off. On the bottom of the inner fenders., Near the spot where they TOUCH the frame,,, Mine had little rubber insulators about a 1/2" wide and a zig//zag shape. They were held in place with staples.
I could not find replacements, SOOOooooo I removed them and installed them on my new ( fitz all ) metal inner fenders.
DONT EVEN ASK, How the fitz all metal inner fenders fit. The new metal inner fenders also fit a 1949 Hudson and a 1953 Ford. Thank the Lord I am a tool & Die maker. A little grinding drill a few holes. THEN do a 100% torque down, WHY? The location of the top pre punched holes, Bottom line was, After they were painted, The top edge stuck out about 3/32" and the wheel house trim would NOT FIT....:crying:
So, I removed them and ground the edge off a bit and painted the fresh grinder marks with a brush. NOW, I have clue why N.O.S. parts are pricey!
Bob
I believe these rubber pieces are mentioned as anti squeak items, or sumpen like that????????
P.S. My wagon is not a 70, Its a 1971, When I had the fenders off, The 1971 inner fenders had the anti squeakers attached.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Kirk, was this a frame off? Did you replace body bushings? My drivers side was touching (and was from the factory) and I just bent it out on the lower edge but don't use pliers or it will look ugly. Is it possible your frame is a hair too far forward. Depending on the year most frame/floors have an alignment pin location. In that area you are talking about the frame bolts to the body so movement should minimal unless you have old body bushings or they are not torqued down to spec.
First, thanks for the speedy responses.

Didn't do body off, didn't have the space. I did body bushings, poly,then took them out and went to rubber. It's possible the body is slightly back on the frame. I spent quite a bit of time squaring rear end, body and frame, so tire clearances are consistent. Don't want to monkey with that unless absolutely nesasary.

Has anybody substituted anything for the anti squeak strips? Inner tube, mud flap (probably to thick)
 

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Opgi has them in stock. They're going to fit because they're designed to fit there. Pull some fender bolts, wedge a block of wood in there and you'll have some working room. My fenders were aftermarket steel, but I just clamped the seal on and drilled small holes to insert the staples through. I bent the staples outward with needle nose pliers and it looks good with no squeaks.
 

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First, thanks for the speedy responses.

Didn't do body off, didn't have the space. I did body bushings, poly,then took them out and went to rubber. It's possible the body is slightly back on the frame. I spent quite a bit of time squaring rear end, body and frame, so tire clearances are consistent. Don't want to monkey with that unless absolutely nesasary.

Has anybody substituted anything for the anti squeak strips? Inner tube, mud flap (probably to thick)
Here is an old Chevelles post discussion how to align the frame. There are two holes in the body and frame on the drivers side. It's best to check and make sure things are square. As I mentioned my inner fender on the drivers side hits slightly as well. It is only sheet metal after all and I just pulled it away. I do not squeak but it would make sense that it could. My 68 did not have any insulators in the location described above but then again 68 is unique in many aspects. I would think you could put almost anything in between ( nothing that holds moisture) to isolate the sound since it will not be visible anyway.

https://www.chevelles.com/forums/12-body-shop/16338-frame-body-alignment-70-chevelle.html
 

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First, thanks for the speedy responses.
.

Has anybody substituted anything for the anti squeak strips? Inner tube, mud flap (probably to thick)
I made mine from heavy rubber they use in stables for horses to walk on.. This stuff is very strong!
 

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My '68 has them and the aim calls for them to be there. Good luck to op fixing your squeak, nothing more annoying. Terry
 
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