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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Shop I work at, the boss decided he wants the shelves anchored to the floor. To do this right we would have to clear all the shelves of pallets, Mark where the holes need to be drilled, move the shelves install the red heads then lift the shelf legs over the anchors. There about 80 anchors that needs to be installed.
OR we can leave the shelves and drI'll the holes at about a 15* angle and install the anchors where it sits. I know we would lose some strength of the anchors. These shelves hasn't had anchors for 20 years. We aren't in a earthquake zone.
is there a table on how much strength we lose? We'reven using 1/2" inch x 3.5 length redheads, the floor is only 4" thick. Jim
 

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Boy Jim, sounds like a lot of work for 80 anchors. As far as reduced strength, I would run that by the distributor or manf rep for the product you use. You could end up doing more harm than good to that old concrete. Run it by them and see what they say.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was going to call today but ran out of time. Tried the old Internet bUT haven't had any luck finding good any info yet. Jim
 

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Getting mighty close to the bottom of the cement. Is it old concrete? I've installed a ton of angle irons for a brick ledge, when none was blocked into the foundation, and the anchors are rated for sheer and pull out strength. I would think the manufacturer would be able to fill you in on the numbers. Probably only really need the pull out number. Can't imagine, if the hole was drilled at 15*, and the anchor inserted at 15* the pull out would be a whole lot different than at straight up. Our anchors were the same dimension as yours and I think the sheer was 3500lbs. Can't recall the pull out number. I'd run the depth of those anchors by the rep too. A bit shorter might be called for if the concrete is not in the best of shape. Maybe some kind of L bracket could be fastened to the leg and the floor, saving you from having to move everything. I haven't had the best luck with those particular anchors. The masonry businesses usually sells top notch products, that you don't have to fight to install. Check em out. Best of luck.
 

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We used Powers Fasteners Wedge Bolts or Red Head LDT concrete anchors to anchor shelves and warehouse storage racks to the floor. Both brands come in 3/8" and 1/2" diameter and various lengths. We usually use 3". They are basically a large Tapcon. Here are pictures of both bolts and the boxes with part numbers showing for the 3/8".
James
 

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Is it shelving or pallet rack? Pallet rack should give you enough clearance to drill straight down. I would add footplates then anchor before I would move the shelving.

A general rule of thumb for anchors is 5X diameter embedment. Local conditions or codes could supersede that.

I would also check your height/depth ratio of the shelves/racking.
 

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You can't install them at an angle and get anywhere near the specified strength. And if they tip and someone is hurt you'd be really screwed from a liability standpoint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That's the reason I'm asking
I guess they are pallet racks. But the lighter duty where you can only get a drill in there at about a 15* angle.
 

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Blast em in with Hilti? Had their area rep suggest proper "stud" to blast into concrete.

Also, we used Tapcon Blue Concrete Screws. Readily available and one step to drill....

Steve O.
 
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