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Discussion Starter #1
I bought my '69 Chevelle in 1989 when I was 19. Unfortunately, it has sat for 9 years (Marriage - kid #1 - Kid #2 - Kid #3), and recently, the "Itch" has returned and I would like to finish it.

I am not an electrical expert, by far (I know enough to be dangerous, and "don't put your finger there, cause it'll hurt), and am experiencing an electrical problem which I have no clue as how to resolve. Basic information on my vehicle is listed, below.

Vehicle: 1969 Chevrolet Chevelle 2 Door Sport Coupe
Engine: 1973 Vintage 350 CID
Transmission: 350TH
Misc. Info: Ingnition conversion to HEI Distributer (HEI Module is Good), Summit Remote (ford-style) Starter Solenoid. When I converted to HEI I removed the GM resistance wire, and replaced it with a stranded 12 GA wire to the firewall junction block.

Normally, when you turn the key-switch to "on/run" (not start), the idiot lights should come on. Then you turn to the "momentary" start position, and the starter cranks/fires/starts the engine.

Years ago, after I converted it to floor shift, I had to over ride (temporarily) the key switch "start" position with a momentary starter push-button (sometimes the key-start work, but more often than not it doesn't). The problem has excalated so that now, when I turn the key-lock/switch to the run position, the idiot lights in my dash do not come on. They DO come on when I rotate the key-switch to "start". If I let it spring back to run, the idiot lights go off. If Keylock is in the run position, and I engage the starter with the button, the engine will crank all day (or as long as the battery holds out), but I'm not getting any spark to the plugs. If I hold the keyswitch in the start position and simultaneously engage the starter (via the pushbutton), the engine will crank and fire, but, as soon as I let the keylock in the column spring back to run, we're back to the no spark issue again.

I have replaced the ignition switch, which only made things worse, as I cannot get anything to work now. Before I replaced the switch, I verified that the key tumbler linkage rod moved, like it's supposed to to operate the switch. I pulled the dash bezel (to replace it) and I did a quick wiring inspection, and nothing seems frayed or broken. There is some sort of relay hanging under the dash with a bracket clipped to it. The bracket isn't fastened anywhere.

I'm totally lost ........ any and all suggestions appreciated.
 

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1, As you put the key in the ON position, verify that you have 12 volts to the HEI distributor BAT terminal. This will tell you if you have power to the HEI. If you do disconnect the wire from the HEI (so the car won't start) and measure it again as you hit your starter switch. You should still have 12 volts.

2, With a cold car, first turning the key to the ON position, only the GEN and OIL lights will come on. The TEMP idiot light doesn't come on until the key is turned past on. Does the fuel gage work? If it does doesn't sound like an ignition switch problem. Check for bad bulbs. Can't see a problem with the alternator circuit and the oil sender both occurring at the same, but stranger things have happened.

3, The relay looking thing sounds like the turn signal flasher.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I get about 7 volts to the HEI, but I may have forgotten to mention that I have no power to ANYTHING ... no dome lights/dash lights/headlights/turn signals ... everything is dead. But, like I said, the remote starter button cranks her over like mad, just no juice to anything. Fuses are all good, making good connections. I pulled the firewall junction block to the fuse block and everything looks ok. Could the voltage regulator be bad? I'll probably check it out tomorrow (weather permitting, she's currently sitting out in the driveway and looking forlorn and lonely).

I've poured over several wiring schematics for a 69, and none of them are exactly the same. More confusion. I'm also wondering if I should finish off the column shift conversion with a floorshift column (instead of the column shift column, which, in it's current condition, can't even work as a column shift column again).

I'm hoping to have her lookin sweet for cruisin' by late next spring, but I have to have her running. Can't have her sitting in the driveway over the winter, we are expecting lots of snow this winter in Minnesota.
 

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Voltage to the HEI is too low but you already know that. Start in one place and work on one thing at a time. First get the voltage up to the HEI.
1, Where does the other end of the HEI wire plug into?
2, Does the battery measure 12 volts?
3, Have 12 volts on the large stud on the horn relay?
4, See 12 volts on any of the left hand fuses in the fuse block?
A bad voltage regulator wouldn't cause your problems.
 

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You could check the wiring at the horn relay. Everything is powered up from there except the starter. Maybe some of the wires are disconnected.

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65 Danube Blue MALIBU 4 door wagon, 350/330hp crate with GM Performance Parts serpentine belt system, 700R4, factory air with Vintage Air conversion, factory am/fm stereo, tilt wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Found the problem. The pigtail off of the battery was the culprit. Took a bit to get her going after that, but not much (especially since she's sat for the past 4 years). Thanks for the help!

By the way, I reused the resistance wire spade connector at the firewall junction to the fuse block for the HEI supply. Used the same location too. DID NOT reuse the resistance wire! I did the same thing on the 68 Camaro I used to have. Works good, and looks "stock".
 
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