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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay,

I am a little confused...

I have a 1966 Chevelle. I was under the impression that if I changed the factory "resistor" wire to the coil to a Non-resisted wire, I could then eliminate the wire that runs from the starter solenoid to the coil...

But someone has now told me the resistor wire circuit only is energized when the key is in the "run" position, and not energized in the "start" position... (not exactly what they said, but my interpretation).

Is this true?


I have been running my car like this for several years, and have only recently loticed a problem...


Specifically, I installed one of Ignition Man's "small-body HEI conversions (and it works great). I removed the entire resistor wire, and resoldered a non-resisted wire to the factory terminal (wish I could have found new terminals), and them removed the wire from the starter to the coil.

It seemed to work fine for 2 years,

But last summer I ran into a problem that I thought was Ignition switch related... The car would not start when the key was turned to start: The motor would spin over, but nothing... As soon as the key was released (and the motor still spinning from inertia/momentum), the motor would instantly fire up...

Now I am thinking I might have removed that other wire just last summer (removed the starter for clutch/flywheel work), although I am pretty sure I removed it earlier...


So the big question (after all this writing), can I just run the one wire, or will I have to run two to the coil?

Thanks,

Tony
 

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64,284 Posts
Unless 66 ignitions are differnt than the later models I've worked with, you only need one wire.

Since you don't have the old points type distributor, you don't need the bypass wire from the starter.

Sounds to me like you might have a bad ignition switch that isn't sending 12 volts to the coil when it's in the "start" position.

Reconnecting the bypass wire would make it start but would be fixing the symptom, not the cause.
 

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Premium Member
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2,221 Posts
Originally posted by Dean "Unless 66 ignitions are differnt than the later models I've worked with,
They are the same. Unless the switch is malfunctioning, which I have experienced that type of malfunction (the IGN1 connection on the ignition switch losing power when in the START position), There will be power on the IGN1 terminal of the ignition switch when the switch is in ON or START positions. The IGN1 terminal feeds, among other things, the coil


originally posted by Tony "The car would not start when the key was turned to start: The motor would spin over, but nothing... As soon as the key was released (and the motor still spinning from inertia/momentum), the motor would instantly fire up..."
Based on your description, you are experiencing that same malfunction.
 
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