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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys, on my 67 SS sometimes it starts, sometimes it doesn't even make a whimper ... The dash lights don't dim... the solenoid doesn't even click ... nothing... I have checked battery cables and the connections at the starter. I want to pull the switch, but I am not sure if it goes back thru the dash or will it come out the front. It seems impossible to reach up behind the dash to grab it. Does it come out the front ? Also, will anything else cause these symptons ? It is a 396 4-spd ... No clutch safety switch that I can detect... Thanks in advance ... sdtsdt
 

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The problem really sounds more like a bad starter brushes but could be ignition switch. If the lights stay bright, there's an open circuit.

While it is difficult to get to with hands of any size, it can be done but a real PITA! I've found the following to be the easiest way to remove the ignition (or any other switch along that panel).

1. Disconnect battery.
In no particular order...
2. Remove key cylinder.
a. There is a small hole in the cylinder next to the key slot. You'll need a paper clip (straightened).
b. Turn the key to the left (accessories position) while inserting the paper clip into the hole to depress the pin inside. The key cylinder should continue left then pull the cylinder lock.
c. Unscrew the bezel around the ignition switch. There is a special tool for this but maybe you'll get lucky and won't need it. In a pinch, a large pair of Channel-Lock type pliers and a couple of shop rags so you don't scratch the chrome bezel has worked for me.
4. Remove steering wheel.
5. Unscrew all the screws that hold the main portion of the dash to the top.

Carefully, you should be able to drop the dash enough to get your hand between the lower part of the dash and the top part (just above the dash strip) and remove the switch by unplugging it. I repeat, CAREFULLY, since the radio, heater controls, etc. are still connected. The reason for removing the steering wheel is to have room to drop the dash and fish your hand in there. It can be done with the wheel on, but you're reaching around it, through it, etc. making it harder to maneuver. That and the wiring harness is usually tucked up under there very hicely (read: tight) and sometimes a problem to pull the whole thing down enough to see what you're doing.

I'm pretty small (always been short and was thinner in my younger days), and years ago I could reach my hand up behind the dash to remove the switches without dropping the dash. If you're young, agile, and have small arms and hands, don't mind a clutch and/or brake pedal in your back, you might pull it off but it's easier to drop the dash.

Remember, engineers designed these things but they were all assembled in one piece when put in the car



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TC Gold #92/ACES #1709
67 SS & 67 Elky
GR8PMKN

Dale's Place Team 67
Midwest Chevelle Regional Governing Council
Integrity: If you have it, it doesn't matter - If you don't have it, it doesn't matter.

[This message has been edited by Dale McIntosh (edited 11-30-2002).]
 
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I had a problem just like that on my 71' and after pulling everything one at a time I found out it was the Neautral Safety Swtich... $15 and i was rollin once again! Hope you figure it out...
 

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We drove my Dad's 67SS to the Grand Run in Pigeon Forge Tn. about 400 miles from home and I started the car and it was running then all of the sudden the started kicked in. Smoke was coming up through the dash and needless to say I turned it off. I went to the Motel Room woke up Dad and told him about the problem and "he said let me get in there and start it". He started it up and the starter was still running and all kinds of smoke was coming out, he shuts it off.

I pulled the starter off in the parking lot with that darned flywheel guard still attached. Starter checked out like a new one so we bought a new ignition switch. I put my hands up in the dash and said "OH MY GOD!" the radio, ashtray and a whole lot of other things had to come out to get to it. So we removed everything with all the people at the car show watching us diligently trying to remove the key switch which I knew the paperclip fit in the hole but did not know to turn to acc and then some more. We got it out and the ignition swithc was melted. I think I paid 16.oo for the switch but that did not pay for all of the teeth missing on the flywheel.

We were happy it started and ran plus we fixed a couple rattles too. Through the top sounds easier though.



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69 Malibu 406 3680lbs Turbo 350 2400 stall, 3.73,XE274, Performer RPM Q-JET, 800 Q-JET, Sportsman2 64cc 11TO1 [email protected] mph

ACES Member #3635
 
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