[Charles_Burgess]

Trying to determine the workthrough for this -
- turn the key lights - go on - will not start
- hold the key, after a delay it may start , iturn off and then on it may click and then may start
- by contininuing to turn the key off and then to start, eventually it will start

Tested starting at solenoid - that is Ok
Replaced one fusable link - wiring seems OK

My neighbor says, be sure to ground the fuse box (which is currently just hanging in the air under the dash)
Could that be the problem? Other Ideas?

Thanks,

 

[the heckler]

went thru this same crap with my 67ss not too long ago. ended up going this route as I have solid lifters and higher than stock compression....hope this helps..
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-30201/
http://www.db-starter-alternator.co...454 Mini Racing PMGR Starter HT PM300 SDR0031
have had zero issues since...

 

[Schurkey]

First place to look is at the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid. Does turning the key to "start" ALWAYS provide voltage to the starter "S" terminal? Is it proper voltage--near battery voltage? (Keep in mind that battery voltage will drop as the starter engages)

If it does, the starter or starter solenoid is defective.

If it does not, the power to the ignition switch, the ignition switch itself, the neutral safety/clutch switch, or the interconnecting wiring is defective.

This assumes that the battery is fully charged and capable of cranking the engine.

 

[mochevy69]

Had this happen to me several times. The last was on a 65 EL CAM!! Check for corrosion on your under hood connections where the two wiring harnesses plug into the firewall connectors. In my case the connections were a dark shade of green.

 

[Surfin' 66]

In my case, it was the ign switch itself.

I don't wish to bash the major supplier of resto parts, but this imported switch was very low quality and eventually the contacts became hit or miss.

I didn't know what to think (the switch was new, so I didn't consider it) until the entire back fell off one day at the store.

I had to strap it back together using small tie-wraps. That seemed to make it reliable (!!).

Conclusion: Even when parts are "new", that doesn't mean that they are any good, especially now in the Age Of Garbage.

I miss The United States of America. Where'd it go ?

Eric

 

[OLDED]

The First thing I'd check is the connector thru the dash - as MOchevy69 says above. It is located under the master cylinder steering/column area. This connection was mickey mouse in 65 and hasn't gotten better after 45 years. Pull it apart from the engine side. It has a couple of clips holding the pieces together. Take care doing this as it is all brittle. Pull the loose end up so you can gently sand or wire brush every connector barb. Before you reinstall it - a little dielectric grease will prevent corrosion in the future. I had to rig a "hold down" over the engine side of this connector. to keep it together.

 

[DaleM]

As Ed noted, be careful of the clips, oops. These are from a 67 but are probably very similar to a 65. Note there should be 4 of these clips.