[Byfield]

If you've lowered your Chevelle, can you let me know what you've used to do so?

I know the principles behind it, such as cut/compressed springs and dropped spindles, but I'm wondering if you bought a kit, or used salvaged parts. And what your opinions of them were.

Also, did you lower the front, or both front & back? Any problems that have occured as a result?


Thanks in advance,

Kurt

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The 68 Chevelle info page.

www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/6873/Chevelle/68_Chevelle_Info.html

Email: [email protected]

 

[Buck Mustard]

I have a '70 and am working to increase the handling of the car. I have put in new bushings all around (rear, body, working on the front end), new (bigger) sway bars, and KYB shocks. I decided I should not ignore the springs so I have purchased some Hotchkiss springs from Summit that are (supposedly) heavy-duty and will lower the car by about an 1" - 1 1/2".

I didn't want to go much lower than this so I did not look into dropped spindles. I know PST can supply custom-wound springs that will lower it anywhere between 1" and 3".

Unfortunately, I have not installed the new springs as I am not done with the front end kit yet, so I can not tell you any of the results.

I would also be interested in hearing anyone else's experiences on lowering a Chevelle.

 

[cchamber]

Well it looks like Buck and I have the same idea. I also went with the Hotchkis springs, PST polygraphite front end, and new sway bars.

Although I just ordered my PST kit on Monday. I'm hoping that everything will work out fairly well and without incident. I'll be adding a complete Hotchkis rear end setup too on down the road, and I might consider their upper control arms for the front so I can run some larger brakes. I guess it just depends on the amount of clearence that I've got for the rims. I'll be documenting each step with tons of photographs, and I'll let everyone know where to find the page.

 

[Bill70]

I've lowered my Chevelle with Hotchkiss springs and KYB shocks. The front springs are supposed to be 620 pound single rate and the rear are 140 pound progressive rate.The front end is lower than I thought it would be and the rear is higher than I tought it would be. I told the Hotchkiss salesman that I was putting in a big block so it may be a little lower from that. The stance looks real nice. However the large diameter Hooker headers sit very low and the crossmember is so low that I can't get a floor jack to roll under it.

 

[Brian Hoss]

I lowered my '67 last year. I didnt want to go radical (yet), so I used Suspension Techniques lowering springs. They are a 1" lowering spring. In addition to that, I added a Herb Adams front and rear sway bar. The front is 1 1/4" dia., while the rear is a whopping 1 1/2"! The old car handles really well! You'll be surprised! I'm in the middle of removing the frame right now, and will be adding in all the Energy Suspension urethane. It should stiffen it up. Plus little things like boxing in the frame in some places and the rear control arms. The only problem I had was it changed the lock-to-lock rotation on the steering. Any lower than 1" will have a BIG effect on the alignment of the car. So do it right, (dont cut the coils to lower it), and find an alignment shop willing to work with you on getting the car going straight.
The only other thing I did was buy a quicker ratio box from Year-One. Man what a difference that made! Good luck!

Brian

 

[Matt S]

Someone mentioned the Hotchkis front upper A arms . . . I used them on my 71 Chevelle . . . very nice set of parts, and worth the cash. I used the set to allow the installation of 79 Camaro 11-inch disk brakes . . . makes a bit of a difference in braking, especially when compared to those pathetic stock front drums I had before. The handling improved a bit as well, even without lowering, because of the better geometry. I will still lower the front about 1" with some drop springs, becuase I want more handling performance. Oh, I also added a quick ratio steering box that I got from Year One, Inc. They had a great price, and the ratio was the 2nd fastest I could find ( I think it was 12.7:1). The quicker box makes a significant difference in handling reaction. If you go w/ a quicker box, you may want an increase in "road feel," something the Year One box will NOT provide. The "road feel" basically makes it a little harder to turn the wheel, which actually makes the feel sportier and probably makes things a little safer since the steering reaction increases so dramatically w/ the quicker ratio . . .

One other thing: when lowering the front, be careful about wheel well clearance . . . if you got big tracks on the front like I do (245r60-15's), then you will probably rub the outer shoulder against the inner wheel well. Wheel spacing may need to be offset, or you may need to stick w/ a whimpy, skinny front tire!

- Matt S

 

[john e]

Just a note, i got some springs for my '65 from a place call H.O. racing specialties. they're good springs and all but...they're just repackaged PST springs, same with the majority of their products. Also if your back is a little high el camino springs are an inch lower.

 

[Bruce Allison]

Note to all and john e.:

The springs sold by HO Racing (and Malibu Performance 818 222 6725) ARE NOT repackaged PST springs. In fact, NONE of the HO parts are purchased from PST and all of them have been independently researched. The HO kit was developed 15 years ago, before PST existed. The springs can be used alone if you like, but are designed for use with the entire suspension kit (See Car Craft Dec. '98 issue). This is the same kit that when installed on a '64 GTO pulled higher G's than a ZR1 'Vette. To the best of my knowledge, no other kit can offer this validation of performance.

Just wanted to let you guys know.

Bruce

 

[Clint44]

I'm running 2" lower BB springs from Coil Spring Specialties, PST Super front end kit, Hellwig 1 1/4" front sway bar and 1" rear, Hotchkiss upper and lower rear control arms, 17x8 American Torque Thrust II wheels with BFG Comp T/A 235-45 front and 255-50 rear tires, and Baer 13" rotors w/PBR calipers on my 68 Elky. No alignment problems at all and it handles great. The only problem is header collector clearance. I'll probably install a set of Sanderson shorty headers soon and then lower the car a couple more inches.