[ss396boy]

Well, the wife and kids are going to be heading out for 3 weeks at the end of the month to visit family. However, I have a few issues which I'm not sure I should do first. .During this time, I'm hoping to do the following:

body on the rotis
Scrape off gunk on the bottom of the car
Epoxy the underside
Send out frame to get Blasted
Epoxy/Paint Frame
Assemble Suspension
Roll frame under body and drop her on....

I'm wondering if I should attempt to get the front clip sheetmetal mocked up before getting the frame sent out to get blasted. My only concern is this was a donor frame and I have not attempted to bolt anything on it yet. The front clip area measure according to the diagrams, i'm just not sure about from the ground up to the frame measurements.

I figure once it's blasted I can take it home and get it epoxied and fix any areas that need to get braced. I don't want to spend $200 and then find out when I mount it to the body it's tweaked. I already had one frame that was like that.

Any suggestions before I take the frame out again?

 

[rubadub]

You expect us to give you an answer when you treat us like this.

I suppose I could help you out, mock it up first.

 

[Chicken Coupe]

Measure it before sending it out would be in order. Third time should not be the charm. Measure twice, cut once!

It doesn't take long at all.

There was a frame dimensions page posted before, search it up if you do not have it already or PM me and I'll send it.

I started with a floor level measurement, N-S, E-W perfect zero level, placed the frame on jack stands along the rails and reconfirmed level N-S, E-W.

I then placed a tape measure through the body mount holes, recorded the measurements and then moved to the holes over the rear springs, the control arm mounts, rear crossmember, front perches. Basically any hole or mount that was supposed to be the same on both sides.

All were perfect or within an 1/8th to a 16th at most. Level on the rear spring crossmember was flat zero level perfect. Then measured diagonally across large openings, again no issues.

Now that I have the ft and rear suspension on, all still sits level and square. I did have some concern about the torsional twist of the frame, but when speaking with Mark at SC&C about suspension pcs he said that you can easily flex the frame that way when unbolted from the body. That doesn't mean it's tweaked.

 

[Chicken Coupe]

You expect us to give you an answer when you treat us like this.

I suppose I could help you out, mock it up first.

Hmmm, Rob that's out of character for you!

 

[rubadub]

You got to have a little fun.

 

[rubadub]

Hmmm, Rob that's out of character for you!

You might be a little confused Fred, thats a picture of Jason himself off his web site, and he's a few up on me, so I have to return the favor once in a while, its all in fun, but I guess it didn't come out right.

 

[allproautocollision]

I would just measure the chassis to make sure it is straight. You can always line up body panels which you will have to do regardless before or after. Blast the chassis, paint, clean up your underbody, install on frame and then you can line up and do your bodywork.

 

[rubadub]

I would just measure the chassis to make sure it is straight. You can always line up body panels which you will have to do regardless before or after. Blast the chassis, paint, clean up your underbody, install on frame and then you can line up and do your bodywork.

I don't know about this, he will probably have a really nice looking frame, and trying to align panels with shims and maybe elongating a few holes, he would be rolling the dice on that one. Plus this measuring ball game is not all what its cracked up to be.

But you do have a valid point on saving a lot of time. In auto collision work time is money, but so is the price of sand paper, filler and paint for a hobbist.

I guess I could mention this, a lot of us are restoring a car for the first time and maybe the only time, I'm not sure how many Jason is doing, but every day its something new you haven't done before. We make mistakes, and I know I make a lot of them and have to redo stuff, so, if a guy can try to eliminate any of the I think this will work up front to I know this will work, its less time in the long run.

You work at this every day Carlos, and I'm sure you could pull this off easy, but a hobbist also has to deal with maybe a second set of hands, whereas in your line of work its probably an experienced set of hands, where I might have to get the wife out there.

Rob

 

[ss396boy]

You might be a little confused Fred, thats a picture of Jason himself off his web site, and he's a few up on me, so I have to return the favor once in a while, its all in fun, but I guess it didn't come out right.

Acutally thats not me, just a friend helping out...

 

[ss396boy]

I would just measure the chassis to make sure it is straight. You can always line up body panels which you will have to do regardless before or after. Blast the chassis, paint, clean up your underbody, install on frame and then you can line up and do your bodywork.

That's what I think I'm planning on doing. i'll have the entire garage to myself for about 3-4 weeks. I normally get 2 outta the 3 1/2 stalls

So that's the plan for now. Pics coming at the end of the month....

 

[Chicken Coupe]

You might be a little confused Fred, thats a picture of Jason himself off his web site, and he's a few up on me, so I have to return the favor once in a while, its all in fun, but I guess it didn't come out right.

My bad, I thought that was you in your younger years.

Baaad Jason, BAAAD Boy! :yes:

 

[Beaux]

So, uhh, Jason.....Pretty cool that you have Adrien Brody working on your chevelle but arent you afraid its going to end up a with a little more metro sexual styling than a Chevelle should have? Watch him.